3- times shortly after starting the car I heard a clicking sound (relay chatter) from the passenger side firewall under hood (only on cold start). It only lasted off and on for about 10 – 15 seconds. Just got the car back from the transmission shop and the noise still exist in the morning on a cold start, no other time in the day. I will be checking further but can use help in locating the problem.

 

From your description of the location of the sound, it is the starter relay. It is located in the enclosure R/H side against the firewall. Starter relay is under the cover that is against the fender. It is the farthest forward. Unless you have a headed windshield, It will be the only relay there. What's confusing is that the the chatter occurs AFTER starting.
Body processor module puts a ground on one side of the coil to pick the relay. I have only seen chattering relays due to low voltage, or weak return spring.

 

I went out today to identify the problem and no chatter. It seems that colder weather is the criteria for the problem to exist, it does not do it on warmer morning. If it were the starter relay it seems to me that it would affect the starting of the car and it does not do that. Well I am open for suggestions because I have no idea why but I am still checking. Could it be heater related?

 

I wonder if it's not something like the ABS pump. Maybe it's struggling with the cooler temps? Just guessing out loud.

 

Isn’t the ABS mounted on the left front fender? If so the noise I am getting is on the firewall.

 

Yes, I believe it is on the LH side. Is it definitely an electronic noise? Could it be a heatshield making noise when cold?

 

I recorded it the other day and attempted to re-record it today but it did not make the noise today. I will try to upload but this one has the radio on I forgot to turn it off in the beginning. I will try the attachment again http://www.gusglikas.com/Video/VID 00002-20091202-1134.3GP This will work but you will need to copy and paste in your browser.

 

Ken, I think I might eat crow on this one. I think you are correct in your assumption that the ABS is chattering. I went out today and it only chattered 2 times and I was not quick enough to get around the other side to identify the exact location. I will need to attempt this another day. I replaced the ABS in 2006. Short life?

 

Have someone record you having a chinese fire drill chasing this sound.
The thought of this, putting myself in your place, made me laugh.

I can picture it step for step.

Can't help you with this, but the though made me smile. Because I could see a whole comedy routine involving a rake!

 

Thanks! You made my day....

 

Well I found out what was making the clicking noise and it is not a relay or the ABS system. This morning I identified the source of the noise at the drive belt tensioner that was replaced. It appeared to be moving about ¼ to ½ inch and each time it would go back it makes that clicking noise. I was so pleased that I found the source of the noise that I did not see the cause. I will update you on this when I find the cause. FYI, it only does this on cold mornings and only a few times then it runs fine.

 

Gus the part that was moving was the tensioner, correct?
I would think its the spring inside the tensioner. You should be able to feel the click with the engine at rest. If you have a wrench long enough wrench
to work it back and forth I think you should be able to feel the click. I would ask for a new tensioner. The internal spring may not be seated in the stop correctly and what you are hearing is the ratcheting sound until it seats.

My guess but up to you to investigate further.

Lastly does the tensioner quite moving noticable once the clicking quits?

 

The tensioner only does this on a cold start in the morning and will only last 1 to 4 chatters and then no problem all day. I will be checking in the morning to see if it is the tensioner or that something else is causing the belt to jump. RE: water pump, alternator etc.

 

Well I found the reason for the clicking/chattering but not the cause. It appears that the belt at times wants to align its self and in doing so it causes the tensioner to force it back. I had replaced the tensioner, the pulley, alternator and the belt. I made extra sure when installing to be sure all lined up. What is out of adjustment?

 

Well I have identified the clicking noise or I should say I narrowed it down to the belt and the alternator. What is taking place is that on cold mornings when the car is started the belt will sway back and forth on the alternator as if it were trying to come off and then recover. The clicking is from the tensioner snapping the belt back. I will try to put a video of it on my page. Unable to find any loose components I am unable to identify the cause. Because of deterioration I had the pulley and idler replaced and I replaced the alternator. I had the local garage look at the problem and they were unable to identify the cause. I am looking for someone that has a 99 that I compare notes with my belt issue. Just let me know by PM I plan to look at it again this weekend weather permitting.
I just found this http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=544 I have a little reading to do.

 

Well I think I found the cause. The pulley that was installed is without a lip on the outer edge and I think this is what keeps the belt in check preventing it from wandering.

 

True but be careful of what you ask for.
Gus I had the same pulley installed on my 99. This was after the bearing failed on the original part. The original part, with lip, was replaced with the same part, with lip. But this part would not align with the other pulleys. The lip pulley was replaced with the non lip pulley and I have had no problems since. The lip pulley began to tear-up the drive belt again that is why the dealer and I agreed that the non lip was the best call.

My problem pully was NOT on the tensioner. It was the pulley that is connected to the block

 

I elected to take the advice of others and change the belt. The consensus was that the old belt formed a memory and I agree. The sequence of change was the belt first, the tensioner second, the idler third and then the alternator. To date the new belt seems to be running just fine.

 

There is a service bulletin for this problem. The correct tensioner pulley has a flange on both edges, not just one. This keeps the belt form sawing back and forth over the pulley and squeaking.

 

Do you have the TSB I am unable to find it? From the information given to me the new tensiones and pulley wheels are without an edge.