How do I remove the over axle section? I'm sorry if this has been asked before but I can't find anything. I'm doing a gearbox swap (hopefully). Neck pain is overwhelming so I gave up and thought I'd ask a nice man from the forum. I've been trying to get the mount bolts out from the circled area in the picture, is this necessary? Thanks a lot.

 

For a gearbox swap, you need to remove the entire exhaust. Cat to the back. I had trouble getting those bolts loose. A combination of rust and very little space made it impossible for me. I ended up removing the rear muffler first. Then loosen the bracket bolts behind the center muffler. I was then able to twist and pull for about 20 minutes until the over the axle section came loose.

 

What I found is that you can maneuver the over axle section and get it out but you need to have the car fairly high off the ground so you can stop it down and "unhook" the section from over the axle.

 

Thanks guys. I persevered and got the bolts out today with the help of a block to put my head on. I'll leave them hanging for now as I don't actually need to get them out from underneath, just off the rest of the system.


It's good to get the job started at last as the neighbours are probably considering a petition.

 

Bill, Please buy, beg, or borrow a few Jack Stands. I know you are using solid blocks, but they can move around and as you will be doing a lot of pulling and jerking to get the box out they will go side ways on you. Put the stands on a couple of blocks if you need a solid base.
Best of British Luck and be careful.

Wayne

 

Wayne, almost the exact words of your first sentence popped in my head when I saw the photo - then I read your post. Let me add that the blocks Bill is using don't appear that solid to me. They can crack and split easily. If I were going to use something to stabilize a jack stand on a gravel driveway, I would use 1/2" or thicker steel sheet or at the very least build concrete slabs at the mounting points. (Actually, I wouldn't get under it at all !) Our XK8s are heavy vehicles (I think there is a sticky on lifting them) and climbing under a car, especially while shaking heavy components, is a task not to be trifled with.

 

Cheers guys, it's really kind of you to be concerned and I've taken that on board. I must admit I added the ones under the towbar because it had started leaning back a bit. I'll make it safer before I start wrenching the box about. The jobs progressing slowly, the catalytic convertors are off and I'm still at the "I'm selling it when it's done stage".

 

With the amount of twisting and pulling you'll be doing, make sure your stands are solid and the car is well supported.

 

Bill you can get 3 ton jack stands at harbor freight for 30 bucks a pair. More than enough to support the XK. Please don't get back underneath there with the car on those blocks.

 

Hi all, just seeking clarification, I am removing the gearbox, the cats & front box are now off, but i got a headache trying to work out the rear pipes......
I was planning to remove road wheel, i think there is another joint towards the rear?
Any guidance appreciated. dropping the rear frame seams a bit drastic...

 

Okay, remove the tail pipes, not difficult. But forget the over the axle parts. You now can battle the center section off because you have more flex having removed the tail pipes. But it's still not easy.

When I put mine back together I cut 1/2" off the back of one of the center pipes to make it easier. No leaks, and you could probably cut some off the other side also.

 

Does the whole exhaust really have to come off? The workshop manual states the downpipes and centre silencer have to come off but looking at photos of the underside of an XK8 I can't see what necessitates removal of the rest of it?

I ask mainly because I'm planning on swapping my gearbox at some point - though not with the car balanced on a pile of bricks!

 

On my last transmission removal I started from the rear of the car with the exhaust. First thing before I removed anything I sprayed PB blaster on every exhaust bolt and connection. From the rear of the car I first took the exhaust pipe loose from its rubber hangers. There are two on each side, one at the rear and one over the rear end. The ones over the rear end were the hardest to get loose, but I kept working at it and got them out. The reason for getting these loose was to give you enough play to get the exhaust apart where it makes it's sharp turn to the right and left before going over the rear end. I left the rear pipes hanging over the rear end because there is no reason to remove them.

 

I'm in the process of removing the gearbox. I first dropped the cats down, by working in the engine bay, then snapped off the bolts which secure to the bell housing, this made it quite loose & I removed the cats within the hour.

I then managed to remove middle box of exhaust, although this did break up a bit during dismantle. The rear pipes remain in place, over the axle. I cannot see a reason to remove at this stage, but i an giving thought to a stainless steel replacement exhaust.

I will keep posting updates. I'n reading up on the need to remove the throttle body to get easier access to top bolts on bell housing.

Regards

 

If I remember right I removed the throttle body on the xk8. There is less room behind the throttle body on the xk8 compared to the xj8. It makes it easier to get at the upper bolts on the bell housing and you need to disconnect the 4 connectors for the cats. I also remove the bracket that they are on. It has 2 10mm bolts. The cables to the cats are zip tied on to the transmission cooler lines and they will need to be cut. Be careful not to cut cat cables. Keep posting as to progress. Good luck.

 

Sorry I just remembered you said you already had the cats out. If you can get the upper bell housing bolts off without removing throttle body you don't need to remove it. I would still remove the bracket that held the cat connections. Or you have to take everything off of it because it is bolted to the bell housing. If you can't get to the bolts you may have to remove TB. On the xj8 I use about 2 feet of extensions to get to the bolts with the extensions on top of the transmission and my Rachet is at the end of the transmission. I don't know if there is enough room on the xk8 for this.

 

I took a break from removing the rear exhaust today & removed the TB, then undid the 4 bolts in question. I can not see any way of doing an XK8 without removing TB. The issue is a small plastic pipe which i broke during the job. looks to be a basic air pipe, I assume pressure, but i'm unsure to repair or replace? Any idea's

 

That's the part load breather. If you follow it it goes under the intaketo the driver side cam cover. The other end has a clamp to a solid tube next to master cylinder acess. I had to buy one last night for the jag I'm working on. Whoever worked on it broke it and just used electrical tape to repair. It cost me $45 Inc shipping. Do you know how to remove connection to TB?

 

I'm a bit blind on this. Once it broke, it was coffee time. When I returned, i set about the exhausts, which have has a few days to soak in fluid. 10 minute job after i finally cut off the jointing bracket.

I'm not going to bodge it, I will get a part on order & fit when i've got the transmission back in. I will take any further removal / refitting advise you offer

Regards

 

That's the partial load breather to the left cam cover. Mine broke doing the same job. I used a piece of thin wall brass tubing and RTV to repair. If not done properly there will be a vacuum leak.