XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Removing over spray...

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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 07:24 AM
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marvin.d.miller's Avatar
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Talking Removing over spray...

Good day to all!
While performing some needed body work on my XK8, I, at the advice of the paint manufacturer, got a large amount of over spray onto my hood. I tried to remove it with a clay-bar, gave up, then by using rubbing compound, but that just made a mess and removed nothing. I knew I could, but did not want to wet sand it off.
I searched this forum, found a couple threads but nothing specific.




So, I decided to try two products mentioned here on the forum to see how they performed. 1) Goof-off 2) Acetone. The Goof-off worked, but clogged the rags I was using so fast that I new it would be a gooey, slimy mess. Think cleaning up a large liquid dish soap spill with paper towels. It didn't touch the factory clear coat and was a bit frustrating because of the impending mess.
Next I tried the acetone on a small spot. The acetone cleaned off the over spray faster than the goof-off, and everything was absorbed into the rag, barely clogging it at all. The factory finish was absolutely untouched. I tried a larger area, it again cleaned off the over spray and left the finish alone.




I became SO confident that I was literally pouring acetone on the hood of my car and cleaning it off with a rag and the original finish shines like brand new, all over spray gone.
It took a couple times of cleaning with the acetone to remove the acetone residue (less and less remained each time), the over spray is gone, the clear coat is now thoroughly cleaned and degreased, it repels water and is good as new. (Yes, all rags are in a flame containing steel step can and will be disposed of properly)
I realized the reason the acetone doesn't touch the original clear coat is because the original is baked on so it's super hard, and the acetone flashes off quick enough that it doesn't have time to penetrate the finish.
 

Last edited by marvin.d.miller; Oct 3, 2017 at 06:33 AM.
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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I probably would have tried using a clay bar before resorting to chemicals. Glad the acetone worked.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2017 | 06:34 AM
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I tried the clay bar method with absolutely minimal results because the over spray, per the manufacturers instructions, was a bit heavy. 20 minutes into the clay bar method, I gave up and was very, very disappointed. On the lighter overspray areas it worked fine, but the heaver areas where it wasn't a mist, but four actual layers, no, not at all. Four layers being primer/basecoat/clear. Yeah, the manufacturers instruction were a bit excessive. I'm just glad I didn't scuff up the original clear coat. I fixed the fender damage and the over spray was on the hood.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2017 | 11:25 AM
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this is one area where I would strongly suggest that before proceeding, one tests the acetone on a hidden area...if the finish is not baked on or a catalyzed finish (and even some of them will be affected) the acetone will immediately penetrate and affect the outer surface. I give this warning after observing chemical interactions and with 30+ years in the auto refinishing business.
wj
 
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Old Oct 4, 2017 | 12:11 PM
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I whole heartedly agree with wymjym. The acetone ate through the non-factory finish in a heartbeat.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2017 | 12:42 PM
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xylene (xylol) is much lees aggressive and is available in most hardware stores. It will dissolve fresh lacquer and enamel but not affect two part urethane finishes and is less toxic.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2017 | 06:44 AM
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I'd never heard of xylene, but will keep that in the back of my mind for next time. Thank you very much in deed!!
 
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