Jochem00 keeping on that theme why was my post nonsense?

 

So how did you get it fully seated as the ball joint protrudes from the back of the arm?

 

That was my question also...not picking on ya Jochem00..inquiring minds want to know.

 

I don't like the fact the old units and new have NO NIPPLE to lube them, they are sealed for life.

I use synthetic semi truck lube in my grease gun, that can last over 100,000 miles.Way better than the junk they put in the sealed units.

 

I use to work for TRW in a steering parts factory. If ya try to put a zerk on a sealed unit and grease it it will blow the seal and ruin the BJ.

 

Here is the tricky bit, I had to keep grinding off the bottom of my improvised tool to get it fully seated.


If I had a large vice and sturdy bench then perhaps it could have been hammered in the last few mm using the cup.


If I were to do it again and I could find a way of hiding it from my wife, and had space in the garage I would buy a cheap hydraulic bench press.

 

Another useful tip, our car parts are getting hard to find.

If you wanted, you could take your arms to a off road shop or frame shops, have it blasted and extra metal welded to the weak spots for extra security.

 

I was trolling thru a racing catalog, and came across the QA1 line of Ball Joints -they look incredible, and serviceable.
( must be - since those circle track guys do a lot of rebuilding )

Anyone with experience? They seem to have a variety of sizes - was looking here before pinging them on diameters / dimensions

Circle Track Racing Ball Joints | Dirt Track Low Friction Ball Joint | QA1 Precision Products

 

As I was in a hurry i tackwelded a nut on the side to overcome the protruding balljoint!
So still quick and easy.

 

I bought lower ball joints from Welsh Enterprises that came with zerks, $25 each.

 

I am going to try your method today...lower arms are off the car, old ball joints are out. It appears though that the bolt straddled across the arm opening would block full press in of the ball joint as the backside of the ball joint protrudes slightly above the thinest part of the arm.

Anyway....thanks and any other pics or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Are you using a Press or C-clamp to install?


Here are some pictures of how I used a press


If you use a press, instead of a "tool" I used a sacrificial wood 4X4 and a 7/16" piece of barstock (to keep the arm from rotating up when the ball joint is pressed in)


With a C-Clamp, you are going to need a tool.