I've had my 2001 4.0L XKR for 4 years now. I'm about to replace both in tank fuel pumps and I've read all I can about this job from this forum,

Planning to go through the subwoofer etc,

Now the in-tank link leads are something I can't find a lot of info on, i.e are they both the same or different part numbers for the 2001 XKR? Hoping to get new original ones, (are they the same as XJ8 but I'd need two or XJ8/XJR which have the two fuel pumps in the tank?).

Any help on this will be gratefully appreciated.

 

JEPC shows LJE3075BA for XKR from VIN A00083 to A30644.




XJR uses a different lead - LNC3360CA.

Graham

 

Thanks for that info, my vin falls in that range, seen this diagram also but it only shows one fuel pump and one link lead and 2001 xkr has two,
This is where my confusion started, the xk8 has one pump and lead, the xjr has two pumps so two link leads Lnc3360da blue plug lead for secondary pump and Lnc3360ca whit plug lead for primery pump, now if xjr and xkr both have secondary and primery pumps why cant i find the information for 2001 xkr like i can with the xjr, my be a call to main jaguar dealer ? GETTING VERY CONFUSED OVER SOMETHING I THOUGHT WOULD BE EASY.

 

well to day has been a good day , because my primary pump is still working but secondary one is not working i can still use the car and took it out to run the petrol down, enjoyed every minute of this task and finale got the petrol light to come on then headed home , put the xkr in the garage and started the process of removing the fuel pumps through the subwoofer (parcel shelf speaker), All went really well and got to the point of physically putting my hands (or should i say hand) in side the tank to remove both pumps (no point in just changing one in my opinion) not easy but also not really that difficult, all of this stage is done by first getting your head over the sub woofer opening and looking in side the tank (use of a torch is a must for this) then putting your hand in there and removing the fuel lines from the top of the pumps, next to remove the pump holding bolt (one for each pump) then i lifted each pump out and put in the trunk, i did this with the link leads still attached to the pumps then removed the leads from the pumps from in side the trunk, really good day as both link leads and plugs are in very good condition and i will NOT be replacing them only the pumps thank god, So i now have both pumps on the garage floor, All this took me about 4 hours from start to finish, (looks like the pumps are original from 2001) Now im waiting for my new pumps and strainers to arrive and then finish the job next weekend hopefully, All of this would not have been possible for me with out this brilliant forum and its really knowledgeable and helpful members,so a big thank you to all that contribute to this forum, i will up date when the job has been completed.

 

There have been discussions about how to access the fuel pump and some go through the rear shelf to save work/time. Others, like me, remove the fuel tank.
I'm not sure if there are differences between your 2001 XKR and my 2001 XK8 convertible, but if it took you 4 hours to get yours out (half the job) and it took me under 8 hours to do the whole job including removing the tank and dropping the rear suspension for access to the fuel lines, I don't see what amount of work or time anyone saves by going through the rear shelf.

 

The XKR obviously has twice as many pumps as your XK8, so it will take longer, but really how much difference does it make whether the tank has been dropped or not? You still have to work through the top of the fuel tank, don't you?

This is a job on my list of things to do and my preference would be to go through the top, rather than underneath (although I realise on my convertible I would have to cut an access hole first) so its very interesting to hear other people's experiences.

 

No difference i dont think apart from the two pumps, i wasnt in any rush and i do have lots of aches and pains (problem with getting older) so didnt want to go under the car, well i must say it was really comfortable in the back seat and worked well for me, speed was not the issue for me but saving $£$£$£$£$£$£, im sure there will be people that will do it faster and others slower which ever way they change there fuel pump, but for me it will always be from the top as it went really well and not to difficult, you do have to work blind and by feel only but its not that hard to remove one fuel pipe and one 8mm bolt on each pump like this, i used a short dumpy screwdriver for the fuel pipe and a small 8mm ring spanner for the holding bolt, any how pumps arrived today so i will keep up dating.

 

Just in case any one is interested the two link leads are different in the tank, one is as shown in the diagram supplied by GGG but the other has a bigger plug at the evap end with the fuel gauge wires attached to it also and both leads have the little black interference box just before the pumps. (not shown in diagram). im pleased both my link leads are in good condition as information on these link leads is very sketchy to say the least.

 

Two things kept me from going through the rear shelf.
One was cutting a hole in the car, which is against my religion, and second was the limited access that I would have once I cut that hole.
Would I waste my time cutting the hole and damage my car in the process only to discover that access wasn't good enough? Then I have to fix the hole. I wasn't willing to go there.
I wanted to be able to see what I was doing in the tank.
Really, other than coaxing the fuel tank through the trunk opening, there wasn't any difficult part of the job and even that wasn't terrible.
I did have to work through the top of the tank to replace the pump, but when the tank is in the middle of the garage floor it's easy.
I guess it's really a matter of personal preference.

 

i dont blame you for not wanting to cut a hole in such a beautiful car,
but if the hole was cut i dont think the limited access would be that much different as it been on the garage floor,

having said that i dont own the convertible but definitely know in the coup the access through the hole is limited by the angle of the rear window.

 

Its similar in the convertible - there may even be more room in the coupe due to the angle of the roof, but I don't know, but I'll be definitely be trying this route first when I do this job.

 

I can assure you that access to the fuel pump is as easy as making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich when you remove the tank from the car and place it on the garage floor. The improved access can only make the task of changing the pump easier, which is what this is all about. And you can see what you're doing to make sure it's right. There is no way it's this easy to work through the top of the tank from the back seat working under the rear window, not being able to see what you're doing. And there is no chance of damage to the rear window, rear seat, etc. if the tank is on the garage floor. For those that haven't done it by removing the tank, don't be intimidated. Dropping the rear suspension isn't bad. It's just bolts. I supported the suspension/car on jack stands, then jacked the car up off the suspension to separate them. Nothing complicated.
The tank does require a little patience to find the right angle to coax it from the trunk. Take a break and have the aforementioned sandwich if necessary.
I'm glad I removed the fuel tank and I would do it this way again. It's going to consume a day of your life either way.

 

I'm coming down in favor of tank removal too. I don't like cutting holes in original parts unless there is no other way. . When my hood liner started abrading the supercharger coolant hoses (it wasn't sagging as all), I chose to remove it rather than cut a hole in it where the contact was taking place. Subsequently, no issues with paint damage at all, and barely any additional engine noise detectable.

Meanwhile, I'm feeding the gas tank a healthy quantity of Techron Complete Gas System Cleaner in hopes it will liquify some of the material trapped in the fuel filters, and help put off the replacement job for a while.


Z

 

Well a small update, the job for to day (after work) was to remove the old pumps from the pump brackets and put the new pumps in to the pump brackets,

ok, tools- one long screw driver and a pair of wide opening jaw pincers, thats it,
the pump & strainer are held (clamped) in a U shaped bracket with a rubber mount at the top and bottom of the pump keeping it insulated from the bracket
(anti vibration)
At the bottom of the bracket (strainer end) is a hole that i put the screw driver in to leaver the U bracket open, just enough to release the pump and bottom rubber then the top just pulls out of the bracket,(you might have to lever it open a bit more as you try to release the pump).

Now check the rubber mounts fit your new pump (take note the orientation when removing rubber mounts from old pump),
i got direct replacement pumps so guaranteed to fit like the original and they did.

So with the strainer and rubber mounts fitted to the new pump i inserted the top of the pump in to the bracket first then using the screw driver as leaver got the bottom in,
At this point the pump and rubber mounts are loose with in the bracket and i used the wide jaw pincers to clamp the bracket down on to the pump tightly, this worked well and the pumps are now ready to go back in to the petrol tank. (weekend job)

 

HI, i think if the access hole was cut right above the tanks evap then you wouldn't even have to touch or remove any part of the fuel tank when changing the pump's,

this would make this job a lot easier and much quicker to do (less things to remove just to get to the pumps)
if only that subwoofer had been 3inc closer to the back seat then then this would have been the case for us coupe owners also,

if jaguar had originally put an access hole above the tanks evap every one would use it to change the pumps and no one would even consider doing it a different way,

 

HI all,
another small update, decided to do a continuity test on the old pumps,
one failed and the other passed, did the same on both new pumps and both passed,
then i did the test on both link leads from the top of the evap plug (out side of tank) to the pump plug and both passed ,
note i did not unplug the link leads from the under side of the evap (in side of tank) i only unplugged the pump side when i removed them,

Im now confident that both link leads are good to re use, and this test comfirms i had one bad pump and it wasn't any of the link leads gone bad
( this do;s happen )

Looking forward to putting it all back together at the weekend.

 

Well it's all done,
Both pumps back where they belong.
From what i learned ; the primary pump is on the drivers side of the tank and the secondary pump is on the passenger side (right hand drive car).
When you remove both pumps there is a baffle plate that is held in place by the two pump holding bolts and comes lose, i just left it in the tank when i removed my pumps,
Now what i did to re fit the plate was to fit the plate only with the pump bolts and nip the bolts up, then remove one bolt (doing this positions the plate and keeps it there).
i then plugged the link leads in to the pumps and put the bolt in the pump bracket and with one hand reach in the tank and blindly locate the bolt hole and hand tighten the bolt while holding the pump at the same time with the one hand,
now i got the spanner in there and tightened the bolt up, then i removed the other bolt that was keeping the baffle plate in position and repeated the process with the other pump (hope i didnt make this sound to easy because it;s not but it is doable as many others can testify).
Now i connected the fuel pipes to each pump with the jubilee clip and tightened them with a spanner (didnt use the dumpy screwdriver this time as i wanted them tight).
That was all the in tank work done,
Now to re fit the evap and ring and push tank back in to place and re fit all the other bits and bobs id removed to pull the tank back.
ALL DONE and felling very satisfied.
Thank you to all that made this possible.

 

fitting pump in to the bracket.

where to place screwdriver to open bracket

fuel pumps in the tank before removing.