Norri,
Don't be too quick to blame the valve train. Here's why. Gt hold of a stethoscope and listen to th fuel rail and adjacent fuel line upstream of it. It sounds for all the world like valve train noise. If you dont have a stethosope get a long piece of metal bar about 1/4 in in diameter, needs to be abot 18-24 ins long. Hold one end in you closed fist and against your ear, touch the free end to various part of the engine. It's actually kinda fun!

I dont know if this the actual noise you are referring to, perhaps not but worth looking into. I had an XJ -40 a few years back and the fuel rail dampening diapragm went bad, sounded just like a bad rod from inside the car...crazy! If I remember at the team the dealer referred to it as the helicopter noise, it was quite common apparently. Good luck, let us all know what you find out

 

I don't think I did!

 

did you check your oil level?

When mine gets low, the valves rattle some and are you sure it is not injectors, seen many a person take their car in for valve noise and turns out it is just normal injector noise.

 

Sorry Norri! I appear to have replied to the wrong person.

 

I spoke with coventrywest on my Jag as I was pricing what the parts might cost. He asked me a curious question about my oil filter... Was it OEM? I didn't know and found it interesting as the last time I had it changed, it was with a new company. I am have found some OEM filters online although I am having a difficult time on confirming the part number. Coventry stated that an improper filter wouldn't have a needed valve that would create the tensioner problem. Any moments? Does anyone have the OEM number?

 

I believe that they are referring to a "Anti-Drainback" Valve.

Without this valve, the oil in the galleries could drain back into the sump. Then, on re-start, it would take a while to pressurize the oil in the Tensioners causing a loose chain with the attendant noise.

I use a Wix Filter and have no noises at startup.

 

Two issues remain though,

1. If it is te filter, would I have a low tick on idle after driving a few miles?

2. Do the KnO and Fram filters for the Jag have the valve also?

 

For some reason my long reply didnt post. Basically I changed the oil and used a Jag filer. The noise on start up stopped. However, I still have a knock on idle and a quick short rapid clicking on fast deceleration when supercharger is engaged.

I uploaded 3 pics also

 

I may have spok to soon, the rattle is not as bad and. I don't hear it in park, but on acceleration I hear it. When I back into the garage, I hear it more. I got some octane booster but no relief ..,HELP!!

 

Well is the update on the vehicle. As it turns out the rattle in the noise is a rod in the engine so I'm being told by the mechanic. Have to replace an engine. I did find one that I'm getting that has about half the miles on it as mine does and it cost a couple thousand dollars so overall not too bad. But was wondering what most you guys had paid to have a engine installed in your vehicle. I'm thinking about 1800 max.

 

Final diagnosis? Your car seems too new to have a rod problem unless you've been racing around with no oil......not for me to second guess over long distance, but if the engine is trash, why not just drive for awhile and enjoy, just do't go too far from home...... How's your oil pressure?

 

Doc, before you pull the trigger on an engine, perform this first: Remove the supercharger belt and start her up then drive around listening for the knock or rattle. Then remove the accessory drive belt then start the engine. A worn supercharger can emitt a rattling/knocking sound, as well as a worn A/C compressor. These motors have overhead cams, thus no rocker arms. The cams have followers that ride the lobes. These can break and emitt knocking and rattling noises. Otherwise, a broken connecting rod wrist pin can emitt a knocking/rattling sound and will require a tear down or replacement.

 

I think you need a second opinion.

 

You might think about driving it until it breaks and then put in a new engine. Costs the same. Be sure to have AAA.

 

All the gauges look great. I put it On the highway and tested it out and also ran it at a relatively high-speed about 95 mph for about 2 miles with no drop in power. Is able to serge and accelerate as it always did. Honestly, I don't trust the mechanic here, but I don't have much choice. Most of my knowledge is limited to the spine and how the body works not too good on engines

 

Steven (my brother Stephen is also a Doctor of Chiropactic), Doctor to doctor, hold off on another motor till my advice is performed on removing the supercharger and accessory belt, then starting her, listening for noises. This maneuver isolates noises as having an origin germain to the engine.

 

I am going to try this this weekend, however, I have no idea how to start the project. I hope this is an uncomplicated process and I will accept any advice I can get.

 

RJ237 in Douglasville, Ga..where do you take your car?

 

+1 on removing the super charger belt always a good check for a dodgy bearings and pulleys....

 

What does the oil on the dipstick look like?
Does the knock get worse on hard acceleration?