Stephen, A foriegn car mechanic would do fine, but any competent mechanic can remove the belts and distinguish between motor and accessory driven mechanics. With belts removed, car lifted with motor running, place a stethescope to oil pan, listening for crank and/or connecting rod bearing slap, and/or connectiing rod wrist pin slap. Short of ripping the motor apart, this procedure is straight forward and an industry standard in determining wether a motor is shot. Not to be taken as a slap to the face of all mechanics...unfortunately a primary problem is finding mechanics without hidden agendas.

 

Well....it's dead. It won't even crank. I'm told wonderful job I did saving money on the oil change is what did it. The wrong filter meant low oil pressure and a destroyed engine. The deal wants 9K.....not happening. I found 2 engines for around 4k and a mechanic with some experience to do it for 1100. I Hugh of having the dealer put it in, but that's 2800. If anyone know an experienced Jag mechanic who is reasonable in GA to do this let me know. This is way to expensive!

 

1. Makes a slight ticking noise
2. ??
3. Engine won't crank

Please fill in #2- did it get worse and noisier? Did nothing change , then all of the sudden no crank? Did it crank over, then lock up?

This will help those who may run into similar situations in the future.

 

After driving for about 2 days.With it clicking, I parked it for a week. When I went to crank it, it wouldn't turn over. The starter whirls but doesn't go any further.

 

This happen to me years back, Ford 4.6L made the same noise as your engine did. In the end the pump gears jammed so you can imagine the rest...

 

We're getting confused, I think. When you said that the engine doesn't turn over, that meant the starter can not rotate the engine. Now it sounds like the starter can turn the engine over but it will not run. That could be a fuel problem. The prognosis that the engine is ruined by your oil filter choice sounds like they don't want to bother looking at the engine internals.

 

Details we need details...

I the starter is whiring does that mean it is not engaging? that could be a low battery and not enough power to the starter to get the centrifugal force required to engage the ring gear.

Time to do some investigation before writing the engine of as dead.

Of course i you are tired o messing with it I could make you a cash offer based on a dead engine.

Barry

 

I suggest pulling the valve covers and running it to see if you can spot the problem. Try to determine where the sound is coming from and pull that cover first. This sound does not sound like a rod knock to me, I think its in the top end. I would also test the oil pressure with a real guage, make sure its normal. Low pressure would show excess clearance like a failing bearing would give.

 

Oldmots, I think you are getting a little ahead of him.Right now the problem appears to be that the engine turns over but does not run.

 

Won't even crank/starter whirls. This sounds a bit like your starter isn't engaging. you wouldn't miss a catastrophic event, and they usually do not happen when you are just starting the car...
Let me try an analogy: (please select one of the below descriptions)

Patient can sit up, but cannot get out of bed= starter whirls, but engine does not spin around (High speed noise but missing the groan of the engine spinning)

Patient can get out of bed, but falls when trying to walk= engine cranks over, but does not fire (engine groanning/turning noise, but no life)

Patient can get up and walk but stumbles, then falls= engine sputters, but then dies

 

No 1, I already called the priest and the morgue.

 

Stephen,
If you want us to help you need to focus on the problem.
Ignore 'it was my fault due to wrong oil filter' etc.
These engines will NOT blow up without a struggle.
'Starter whirrs' isn't useful - charge the battery then video the startup.
If you can't post a video then describe exactly what happens.
DO NOT start buying new engines, scrapping the car etc. until we've got enough info to sort this.
Also get yourself an OBD code reader for $15.
It might not help at the moment but if you've got a real starting problem the codes are essential.

 

There is no doubt in my mind that you just have a low battery after letting it sit for a week.

 

Ya- low battery sounds right (or starter)... I have heard the sound of a locked up motor (LOUD CLICK, then nothing) and a bad motor (groaning slowly but no life)

Throw a fresh battery on it and report back. Once it is started we can look into the clicking noise that persists.

 

I attempted the to attach the video but that didn't work so I'm listing a link to the YouTube of it instead of the vehicle attempting to start. I'm not concerned about the battery it's brand-new I just replaced it three weeks ago and it's strong.

 

Seems to have Spark and Some Fuel but not enough.

You should get a Pressure Gage and check Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail.

Very possibly a bad Fuel Pump or Fuel Pressure Sensor.

I'd put my money on the Fuel Pump.

 

I can give it a shot, but does it sound as if the engine is still operational if it cranks. I'd like to tow it once.

 

Stephen,
I have read all three pages of all the posts, and I am by no means a mechanic or mechanically oriented, but something's not right. I would tend to agree with Paul that the reason the engine is not engaging is fuel related; it sounds just like a car that is out of gas. But the sound of that engine, even if it's not engaging or starting, is not one of a blown engine. You need to get a real and proper diagnosis and not one based on what you're hearing on videos, from friends who have had similar noises....Don't jump to any conclusions without that. You wouldn't suggest to your patients to self-diagnose, so don't do it yourself.

 

Fuel filter or pump sounds like a good place to look after hearing the video.

 

I'll virtually guarantee there's nothing wrong with the engine mechanically, it sounds fine.
To measure the fuel pressure either use the Android app Torque or hire a fuel pressure tester.
If you look at the LH side of the engine, find the dipstick then come in about 4" you'll see a bunch of small noses.
Under these is the fuel rail and you'll see a blue Schrader valve cap.
A quick test is to have some cloth handy and press the valve dowwn af if letting down a tyre. You should get a strong jet of fuel.
Measuring the pressure is better.
Post back when you've done that.