Rough idle 550 rpm and loss of power
#1
Rough idle 550 rpm and loss of power
Hi fellow XK8 owners. I really need your help.
I did a 90% full throttle sprint off a red light for 20 seconds, then coasted to a full stop at the next red light, only to find the idle was very rough and had dropped from the normal 800 to 550 rpm (in neutral, with air-conditioning on). From then on it appears I'm running on less than the full 8 cylinders and the power has been reduced by 30%. Opening the hood, there is no noticeable excessive engine noise or clacks. Upon scanning the codes, there was one P1396 (VVT solenoid left bank), which re-appeared intermittently, sometimes there, other times not there after erasing DTC codes. There was never any warning messages shown on the dash such as CHECK ENGINE or REDUCED PERFORMANCE, etc. And the primary & secondary chain tensioners have not been replaced.
I suspect one (or more than one) of the sparkplugs and/or coils has failed. How can I detect which one has given up?
Any advice on remedying the situation is highly appreciated.
I did a 90% full throttle sprint off a red light for 20 seconds, then coasted to a full stop at the next red light, only to find the idle was very rough and had dropped from the normal 800 to 550 rpm (in neutral, with air-conditioning on). From then on it appears I'm running on less than the full 8 cylinders and the power has been reduced by 30%. Opening the hood, there is no noticeable excessive engine noise or clacks. Upon scanning the codes, there was one P1396 (VVT solenoid left bank), which re-appeared intermittently, sometimes there, other times not there after erasing DTC codes. There was never any warning messages shown on the dash such as CHECK ENGINE or REDUCED PERFORMANCE, etc. And the primary & secondary chain tensioners have not been replaced.
I suspect one (or more than one) of the sparkplugs and/or coils has failed. How can I detect which one has given up?
Any advice on remedying the situation is highly appreciated.
#2
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Pristine97XK8Convertible (06-26-2015)
#3
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Pristine97XK8Convertible (06-26-2015)
#4
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Pristine97XK8Convertible (06-26-2015)
#6
Suspect broken chain tensioner
It has less than 80,000 km on the clock, which is under 50,000 miles.
The sprint was a rather gentle acceleration and not an instant flooring of the gas pedal and probably lasted for total 10 seconds or less.
We all have our crazy spur of the moment.
In my case, would you suspect it is the secondary chain or the primary chain that has jumped a tooth?
After lifting the cam covers, what do I look for to positively identify a jumped tooth situation? If that is the case, would it be necessary for the timing cover to come off for the remedy? Thanks for any advice.
The sprint was a rather gentle acceleration and not an instant flooring of the gas pedal and probably lasted for total 10 seconds or less.
We all have our crazy spur of the moment.
In my case, would you suspect it is the secondary chain or the primary chain that has jumped a tooth?
After lifting the cam covers, what do I look for to positively identify a jumped tooth situation? If that is the case, would it be necessary for the timing cover to come off for the remedy? Thanks for any advice.
#7
You should only need to be concerned about the secondary ones at the moment, Read this to get a idea of what's involved
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ners-how-4747/
Though since you have a very old XK at some point you will need primary's done as the guides where and crack, this is it won't blow your engine as the secondaries will if they give out, you can check for a skipped tooth by aligning the flats on the cams.. again see above post.. Good luck
All that said you may also have a stuck VVT this would cause the car to behave in such a manner, do a search of this forum for VVT and you might find some answers..
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ners-how-4747/
Though since you have a very old XK at some point you will need primary's done as the guides where and crack, this is it won't blow your engine as the secondaries will if they give out, you can check for a skipped tooth by aligning the flats on the cams.. again see above post.. Good luck
All that said you may also have a stuck VVT this would cause the car to behave in such a manner, do a search of this forum for VVT and you might find some answers..
Last edited by jamdmyers; 06-27-2015 at 06:22 AM. Reason: vvt
The following 2 users liked this post by jamdmyers:
jafari (02-26-2017),
Pristine97XK8Convertible (06-27-2015)
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#9
The real perpetrators: secondary chain tensioners
Here you go, the damn plastic secondary chain tensioners:
Both had their plastic "pushers blocks" disintegrated due to old age (18-years) , and their plastic tensioner bodies have hairline cracks as can be clearly seen from the photos.
I'd been really lucky to have gotten away without a total engine write-off...
Both had their plastic "pushers blocks" disintegrated due to old age (18-years) , and their plastic tensioner bodies have hairline cracks as can be clearly seen from the photos.
I'd been really lucky to have gotten away without a total engine write-off...
Last edited by Pristine97XK8Convertible; 07-09-2015 at 11:55 PM.
#10
The following 2 users liked this post by RJ237:
jafari (02-26-2017),
Pristine97XK8Convertible (07-09-2015)
#11
Now the next project: To protect the A drum in the transmission you should replace the main pressure valve with the ZF upgrade.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf
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Pristine97XK8Convertible (07-10-2015)
#12
Now onto the 5HP24
Now the next project: To protect the A drum in the transmission you should replace the main pressure valve with the ZF upgrade.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf
Can you advice the best place to get the ZF main pressure valve?
#13
If you have a ZF dealer that's the best choice. I got mine from a California dealer.
Main Pressure Valve 5HP24 - 5HP30
Main Pressure Valve 5HP24 - 5HP30
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Pristine97XK8Convertible (07-10-2015)
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