secondary Timing Chain Tensioners: Done!
#1
secondary Timing Chain Tensioners: Done!
I recently bought a 2002 XKR with 95000 miles on the clock. I've been updating the maintenance and using this site as a source of info. In doing so, I learned about the plastic timing chain tensioners and the problems they cause. (My first car, a 1980 ford escort, busted a timing belt, so I am personally familiar with the pain and cost of bent valve stems). I think I read every timing tensioner thread I could get my hands on. My thanks to all who posted on this issue- there is a wealth of knowledge out there!
I have to admit that I was a bit nervous about this job. Two years ago I changed the timing belt on an Audi TT, and it was a difficult and nerve racking experience.
But, this job went smooth up to a point. I used the zip tie method. The part that had me most concerned was removing and reinstalling the cam caps. However, dealing with the cam, timing chain, and the tensioners was the easiest and most enjoyable part of the whole job. I had removed the plugs and used a 24mm socket to rotate the engine and found that it was easy to get a spot where there wasn't much tension on the exhaust valves on bank, then repeating the process for the other bank (ie I treated this as dealing with two 4 cylinder engines as some commentators on this forum suggested). In this position (no pressure on the exhaust valves) removing and installing the cam caps was a breeze.
IMHO the hardest part was dealing with the cam covers. Getting them in and out was tight. Indeed, when I put the right bank cover back in, I must have twisted part of the gasket. I started the car up when done and everything was looking good. Engine ran great and all seemed well. Then I noticed a pool of oil forming under the car! Yikes. I had to remove the cover again and redo it. On the second go around all was tight and no more leaks.
FYI- my plastic timing tensioners were in OK shape. I think they would have lasted another 50,000 miles at least. Each had a tiny crack in the usual spot. Interestingly, it was the same size as the cracks in other tensioners I have seen posted on this forum. Which makes me wonder if the second gen tensioners stabilize after getting a small crack. The pads had some wear. In fact, I think the pad wear was likely to be more problematic than the crack.
Happy this job is behind me.
I have to admit that I was a bit nervous about this job. Two years ago I changed the timing belt on an Audi TT, and it was a difficult and nerve racking experience.
But, this job went smooth up to a point. I used the zip tie method. The part that had me most concerned was removing and reinstalling the cam caps. However, dealing with the cam, timing chain, and the tensioners was the easiest and most enjoyable part of the whole job. I had removed the plugs and used a 24mm socket to rotate the engine and found that it was easy to get a spot where there wasn't much tension on the exhaust valves on bank, then repeating the process for the other bank (ie I treated this as dealing with two 4 cylinder engines as some commentators on this forum suggested). In this position (no pressure on the exhaust valves) removing and installing the cam caps was a breeze.
IMHO the hardest part was dealing with the cam covers. Getting them in and out was tight. Indeed, when I put the right bank cover back in, I must have twisted part of the gasket. I started the car up when done and everything was looking good. Engine ran great and all seemed well. Then I noticed a pool of oil forming under the car! Yikes. I had to remove the cover again and redo it. On the second go around all was tight and no more leaks.
FYI- my plastic timing tensioners were in OK shape. I think they would have lasted another 50,000 miles at least. Each had a tiny crack in the usual spot. Interestingly, it was the same size as the cracks in other tensioners I have seen posted on this forum. Which makes me wonder if the second gen tensioners stabilize after getting a small crack. The pads had some wear. In fact, I think the pad wear was likely to be more problematic than the crack.
Happy this job is behind me.
#4
I think they crack if the engine doesnet get a regular oil change, i have service history of an oil change every year but when i was inside it looked pretty dirty to me and a build up of crap on everything which makes me think it hasnt been done every year. or maybe if the engine has overheated they may crack easier.
good job done.
good job done.
#5
I think they crack if the engine doesnet get a regular oil change, i have service history of an oil change every year but when i was inside it looked pretty dirty to me and a build up of crap on everything which makes me think it hasnt been done every year. or maybe if the engine has overheated they may crack easier.
good job done.
good job done.
I'd love to see the receipts for all of the work he claims to have done on that Vette he currrently has for sale...oh wait there are none. This guy's a real piece of work. No way he would buy that car, rebuild the engine, trans, suspension, recover the seats and sell it for $10k. In fact, nobody would put that much work into a 90 Vette if they weren't planning on keeping it.
Sorry for the rant, I just really don't like this guy and finally have validation from the OP on why. I just knew he was a snake.
Last edited by 87LC2; 06-15-2022 at 12:15 PM.
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