Security Sounder
#1
Security Sounder
I'm having problems with the security sounder (chirrupy-beepy thing) inside front RH wing (fender ?). I think there's been water ingress and corrosion. I have dug out and replaced the two internal 1.5 NiCad batteries, but this hasn't solved it. Mine is intelligent - LJA2620AB and not passive - LJA2620BB
I have the 1997 wiring diagram and JTIS, and the index says 'Security Sounder section 13-3. However, the diagrams go from 13.1 to 14.1 so I assume that Jaguar decided that this information should not be available to anyone other than a very select few.
Does anyone have 13.3 for a 1997 XK8. There's more information in the later 2003 diagram, but this is totally different, with only four wires, whereas my 1997 has six.
All help much appreciated.
Cheers,
David.
I have the 1997 wiring diagram and JTIS, and the index says 'Security Sounder section 13-3. However, the diagrams go from 13.1 to 14.1 so I assume that Jaguar decided that this information should not be available to anyone other than a very select few.
Does anyone have 13.3 for a 1997 XK8. There's more information in the later 2003 diagram, but this is totally different, with only four wires, whereas my 1997 has six.
All help much appreciated.
Cheers,
David.
#2
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some snippets
Hi David,
There's not much about that I can find on this, but see attached snippets which I believe are from the absent 13.2 diagram.
The 2003 diagram shows both the active and passive sounders together, and not as separate options. The wiring for both goes to a single connector, LF18, therefore 6 wires in total that matches what you have found. From 2003 JTIS:
LF18-1 } passive sounder output from BPM
LF18-2 } " " " " "
LF18-3 B+ via ignition (marked 52 on 2003 diagram)
LF18-4 active sounder output from BPM
LF18-5 Ground
LF18-6 B+ fused (marked 74 on 2003 diagram)
Connections LF18-1 and LF18-2 go to the passive sounder, the other 4 go to the active sounder.
The attached snippets show the passive sounder only, taken from 1998 data. Note that the connections for the passive sounder shown are LF18-1 and LF18-2 (which tally with the 2003 diagram, together with LF18-4 marked as 'not used'
So, I think that the 2003 diagram isn't too far adrift?
HTH,
Mike
There's not much about that I can find on this, but see attached snippets which I believe are from the absent 13.2 diagram.
The 2003 diagram shows both the active and passive sounders together, and not as separate options. The wiring for both goes to a single connector, LF18, therefore 6 wires in total that matches what you have found. From 2003 JTIS:
LF18-1 } passive sounder output from BPM
LF18-2 } " " " " "
LF18-3 B+ via ignition (marked 52 on 2003 diagram)
LF18-4 active sounder output from BPM
LF18-5 Ground
LF18-6 B+ fused (marked 74 on 2003 diagram)
Connections LF18-1 and LF18-2 go to the passive sounder, the other 4 go to the active sounder.
The attached snippets show the passive sounder only, taken from 1998 data. Note that the connections for the passive sounder shown are LF18-1 and LF18-2 (which tally with the 2003 diagram, together with LF18-4 marked as 'not used'
So, I think that the 2003 diagram isn't too far adrift?
HTH,
Mike
Last edited by michaelh; 09-15-2015 at 03:55 PM. Reason: clarification
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kulddy (11-08-2016)
#3
Mike. That's very helpful. Thanks.
It also makes sense of the six wires - my assumption would therefore be that the BPM is the same on all cars, and it's actually only the security sounder (active or passive) which is different.
It also means that - because I'm not too concerned about anyone trying to steal my car by disconnecting the battery - I could almost certainly replace the active sounder with a passive sounder and thus have more choice and less expense sourcing a replacement.
Will report back when fixed !!
It also makes sense of the six wires - my assumption would therefore be that the BPM is the same on all cars, and it's actually only the security sounder (active or passive) which is different.
It also means that - because I'm not too concerned about anyone trying to steal my car by disconnecting the battery - I could almost certainly replace the active sounder with a passive sounder and thus have more choice and less expense sourcing a replacement.
Will report back when fixed !!
#7
I have a similar issue with my XK8 sounder and have been advised by a reputable Jaguar repairer/restorer that they regularly simply disconnect the cable from the sounder as they are prone to issues....notable water ingress.
The security system will work perfectly well without the sounder (either intelligent of passive) so you may want to save yourself a lot of grief by pulling off the connector and sealing that up with a plastic bag and tape perhaps.
Some of these sounders are now discontinued and only old used units are available with a limited life span...if they work at all!
I hope this helps?
The security system will work perfectly well without the sounder (either intelligent of passive) so you may want to save yourself a lot of grief by pulling off the connector and sealing that up with a plastic bag and tape perhaps.
Some of these sounders are now discontinued and only old used units are available with a limited life span...if they work at all!
I hope this helps?
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#8
Agreed - water does get in and corrode the battery connections - they are not really necessary and, frankly, even if you can get a new one from somewhere, the rechargeable batteries inside will probably be around 15 years old and therefore not 100% reliable.
But ................ if you are boring and a bit **** like me, you will want everything to work as Jaguar intended.
Since my original post, I have since established that it is NOT 2 x 1.2v AA size but 6 x 1.2v (one third AA size) batteries with solder tags to make life a bit easier.
The old batteries can - with care - be dug out of the rubber compound and replaced.
Here : Battery 150 1/3 AAA ( Micro ) 170,Ah 1.2V Ni-MH GP17AAAH with Z - soldering lug | eBay
Before :
Lay them out side by side like two x AA batteries but with a total of 7.2 volts - solder them all together and to the PCB in the sounder - squeeze a load of silicone sealant into all the gaps, replace the cover - put a bit more silicone around the edges and, with luck, it should last for another 20 years or so !!
But ................ if you are boring and a bit **** like me, you will want everything to work as Jaguar intended.
Since my original post, I have since established that it is NOT 2 x 1.2v AA size but 6 x 1.2v (one third AA size) batteries with solder tags to make life a bit easier.
The old batteries can - with care - be dug out of the rubber compound and replaced.
Here : Battery 150 1/3 AAA ( Micro ) 170,Ah 1.2V Ni-MH GP17AAAH with Z - soldering lug | eBay
Before :
Lay them out side by side like two x AA batteries but with a total of 7.2 volts - solder them all together and to the PCB in the sounder - squeeze a load of silicone sealant into all the gaps, replace the cover - put a bit more silicone around the edges and, with luck, it should last for another 20 years or so !!
Last edited by DevonDavid; 10-09-2016 at 01:32 PM.
#9
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paul 737 (10-10-2016)
#11
I guess the idea is that if someone disconnects the "main" battery in the boot / trunk and then attempts to open the car doors or pull the car on to a low-loader, the alarm will still operate with the internal batteries.
I think car crime has always been a bigger issue here in the UK and Europe than in the US - there are two types of sounder (in identical enclosures) - "intelligent" and "passive" - the "intelligent" units are certainly fitted to UK cars, have the internal rechargeable cells, and are linked into the tilt sensors and door locks. The "passive" sounders use the same wiring, but depend for power on the main car battery, so presumably have rather less functionality in the event of an attempted theft.
The good news is that they can be disconnected without causing any other issues - quite a few owners have done that anyway, particularly anyone who wants to lock and/or unlock their car in the middle of the night without waking up all the neighbours !!
I think car crime has always been a bigger issue here in the UK and Europe than in the US - there are two types of sounder (in identical enclosures) - "intelligent" and "passive" - the "intelligent" units are certainly fitted to UK cars, have the internal rechargeable cells, and are linked into the tilt sensors and door locks. The "passive" sounders use the same wiring, but depend for power on the main car battery, so presumably have rather less functionality in the event of an attempted theft.
The good news is that they can be disconnected without causing any other issues - quite a few owners have done that anyway, particularly anyone who wants to lock and/or unlock their car in the middle of the night without waking up all the neighbours !!
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paul 737 (10-10-2016)
#12
My latch was partially stuck in the open position due to the emergency cord inside the trunk being hung up. This happened while the alarm was armed, as I can pop the trunk with the remote with the alarm on, and close it without setting the alarm off, or disarming it. When the latch stuck I tried the old slam it really hard once method, and when I did, the alarm sprang to life screeching like a bat out of hell, lights flashing, windows rolled up, the works. I do not know what type of animal Jaguar recorded being slaughtered, to use as the alarm sound but man it must have suffered. Also, if the alarm is going off when I disconnect the battery, it will sound again when I reconnect the battery after a few warning 'chirps'.
I want to check the sounder now that I have read this post and check the condition, is it in the same location on the 2003 MY?
I want to check the sounder now that I have read this post and check the condition, is it in the same location on the 2003 MY?
Last edited by 03 XKR; 10-10-2016 at 03:10 AM.
#13
Yes - I'm pretty sure it's in the same place on all the cars - right hand side (looking forward from rear) just under the headlight. With the steering on full left lock, if you don't have hands like shovels, you may be able to undo the two bolts and withdraw the sounder through the small access hole without removing the wheel and the complete wheelarch liner, although doing that makes the job much easier.
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03 XKR (10-10-2016)
#14
#15
Paul - that should work. As far as I could make out from mine - although there's a connection to the PCB between battery #3 and #4 - I suspect this is just to "anchor" the battery pack to the PCB and it is the two end connections - 7.2 volts total - which are important. It is also easier to carefully prise the existing metal connectors from off the ends of the batteries, rather than de-soldering from the PCB where the connections are more difficult to access.
#16
#17
all good fun ... (I think)...
Yes - it's fun in the sense that even if everything goes totally pear-shaped, you know that the car will probably still function 99.9% correctly. One small error with the sun-visor wiring and you can fry most of the computers and reduce the value of the car to scrap in about 150 milliseconds.
I exaggerate slightly but ......................................... not much !!
Yes - it's fun in the sense that even if everything goes totally pear-shaped, you know that the car will probably still function 99.9% correctly. One small error with the sun-visor wiring and you can fry most of the computers and reduce the value of the car to scrap in about 150 milliseconds.
I exaggerate slightly but ......................................... not much !!
#19
'The good news is that they can be disconnected without causing any other issues - quite a few owners have done that anyway, '
Other than if it gets stolen and you've not let your insurers know that the battery backed alarm no longer functions as intended. Give them any reason to get out of paying and they will, luckily I don't think many get stolen.
Other than if it gets stolen and you've not let your insurers know that the battery backed alarm no longer functions as intended. Give them any reason to get out of paying and they will, luckily I don't think many get stolen.