Hi All,

Just bought a 2001 XK8 in Pacific Blue. Love the car but there are a few issues with it and I'd really appreciate getting your feedback.
[ol][*]Traction Control doesn't seem to be working. I'm intermittently getting a warning at the system check that ATC is not available. Also, the switch on the centre console is not illuminated, although bizarrely the red light on the switch does illuminate when you switch the ATC to 'off' mode.[*]My passenger-side headlight is full of condensation and won't dry out. Does this need replacement or can the seal be repaired?[*]On driving down a steep hill the other day, I got a warning saying "Engine Coolant Low". As soon as we were back on a level road, the warning extinguished. I checked the coolant level when cold and there appears to be coolant in the expansion tank. Should I get a pressure test or does this happen on steep declines?[*]I have a squeek coming from the rear of the cabin, near the C-pillar but can't locate the problem. Any ideas?[/ol]
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Jonathan

 

#2....Need a new headlight assy (seal broken)..Pull out bulb and if you can, use a hair blow dryer to dry it out

#3....There is a fluid level sensor in reservoir tank..Fill the tank to it's MAX mark..and yes if you are in an incline like that the coolant will probably get off the sensor..keeping the reservoir full may help with the nuisance alarms. (nothing to do with pressure)

#4....The back of the rear seat may not be set in palce or the hold down clips may need a little lubricating..or if the seat belt is attached there it maybe causing the noise..buckel up the rear seat belts and see if that helps.

 

THERES A MOD ON THE HEADLIGHT INVOLVING DRILLING A HOLE IN THE SIDE TOWARDS THE CENTER AND FITTING GREY RUBBER "T"S TO INCREASE VENTILATION THROUGH THE HOUSING. THE TRACTION BUTTON IS SUPPOSED TO ILLUMINATE WHEN YOU TURN IT OFF[sm=icon_rtfm.gif]
AND YES THE COOLANT RESERVOIR NEEDS TO BE FULL TO THE TOP WITH ONLY ENOUGH ROOM TO PUT THE CAP BACK ON WHEN COLD, HAVING COOLANT IN THE RESERVOIR DOESNT CONSTITUTE FULL AS THE RESERVOIR IS SMALLER THAN A BABIES BLADDER

 

#1, as brutal says, that's the normal operation. Red light on = ATC off (did you get an owners manual for the car?)

#2, just pop off the clear cap atop of the headlight assembly (i am assuming the 03 and 01 aren't too different) and let it dry out. Mine was the same way, took a couple hours out in the sun to clear it up. Now you'll see some mineral stains on the inside...hate that! I actually leave the clear cap only partially on to help ventillation. I would do the extra rubber 't' if I weren't so lazy and worried I might screw it up pulling the headlamp off. Since doing this, It has only 'hazed' up only once or twice in a year and a half. The really heavy rainstorms in traffic sometimes causes it to recur, but not as bad as my first wash home from the dealer.

#3, very slow coolant leaks are common on these cars, if it gets worse, check the expansion tank for breaks in the plastic or the hose near the t-stat housing.

 

OR THE HOSES TO THE HEATER UNDER THE INTAKE, OR THE ORINGS ON THE CROSSOVER PIPE, OR THE 1 FOR THE T STAT HOUSING, OR THE HEATER MATRIX HOSE OVER THE PASS SIDE CAT, OR THE RESERVOIR CRACKED, DONT TOUCHANY PLASTIC PIPING UNLESS YOU HAVE A REPLACEMENT IN HAND....DID I MISS SOMETHING REALLY ITS NOT BAD, THATS ALL AGE RELATED STUFF ANYWAY AND IS CONSIDERED MAINTENANCE.....UNLESS YOURE A RAMBLIN GAMLIN MAN(SING IN YOU BEST BOB SEGER VOICE)

 

Drive the car with the headlights on and the condensation will go away. I did that to my car when I first got it and it has not returned.
Brutal is correct about touching any plastic piping. The hose that goes from the supercharger to the fill tank had a leak at the supercharger connection. It was a plastic connector and I tugged on it. Lesson learned. It broke off in the supercharger nipple and took me almost an hour to get the broken piece out. Also had to get the replacement part before I could drive it.

 

LEW, NEXT TIME YOU TRY THAT, SCREW A SCREW INTO IT AND PULL IT OUT, OR A DRILL BIT WORKS TOO, DONT HAVE EITHER ONE OF THOSE.....THEN WHAT ARE YOU DOING OPENING YOUR HOOD ANYWAY[sm=icon_stickpoke.gif][sm=imsmilin.gif]

 

Thanks for the posts.

I understand that pressing the ATC switch disables the ATC. My issue is that when the system checks are taking place after the ignition is switched on, theLCD is telling me "ATC is not available" even though I haven't disabled it.In addition, the green illumination behind the switch is not working. Initially I presumed this was just a blown bulb until I started noticing the LCD warnings.

I'll have a look at the headlight assembly later. Thanks for the tip, h20boy! Despite driving with the headlights on, the affected light has not dried out yet after a week.As I live in Ireland, it rains a lot and I don't want this recurring, so I'll try to press the dealer to replace the unit if the seal is damaged. I was quoted 500 Euro by the Jaguar main dealer in Dublin, so I'm sure the dealer I bought the car from will be delighted to do this!

I also noticed I have a blown bulb behing the engine coolant temperature gauge. Any idea how to access this. I can't find any screwheads around the instrument cowl.

 

Well, luckily, the green illumination behind the button IS just a bulb...each one gets its own. Take the center console apart to get behind that row of switches and you'll see the bulbs fitted behind them. If the button and board is fried behind it, that could be permenantly disengaging the ATC for you, just thinking out loud. My bulb connection shorted out, but did not affect the RED light or my ability to disengage the traction control. I had to replace the entire 'auxillary' button panel with another one.

as always, good luck

 

NOW YOU TELL ME! LOL Yeh, I have some tools that I don t even know what they are for! Good tips. I finally removed it with a small hook. I thought of the drill idea, but really didn t know if I would have damaged it. Thought about a soldering iron with a cutting tip. Hope I don't have to do it again, but if I do, I'll know better what to do.

 

Raheny, Id be more then happy to come over and test your car to see if the traction control is working or not

 

It was raining like hell this morning, so I gave it a bit of welly when accelerating from rest, and the ASC kicked in at almost every traffic light, so it IS just the bulb behind the switch! Thanks again for your help.

How do you take apart the centre console? I can't find any screwheads. I've noticed from watching clips of XK8s on youtube that many cars seem to have electrical/short issues and multiple interior bulbs blown. I thought Ford's ownership of Jag would have sorted out the old electrical gremlins!

 

Trust me, the electrical issues are much better post - 1997 than they were before.

As for your console removal, if nobody jumps in beforehand, i'll get you a step by step over the weekend. i'm late for work!

 

Ok, in words lets try this. [ol][*]use a credit card to remove your gear shift bezel. If your bezel is a clock, use the corner of the credit card at 10:00, 1:00, 4:00 and 7:00, and go directly into the left or right - exactly horizontal as the clips are vertical beneath. Do one corner at a time and go slow. If you do break one or two, let me know, i have a pseudo fix for you when you put it back together. As you lift the bottom, remember to disconnect the Sport button.[*]after the bezel is off, you have to remove the four screws that hold retainer pieces to keep the wood secure. After those are out and the retainers lifted, the wood just comes out. Remove the Roof button from wiring below.[*]now you'll see two large Torx bolts under where the wood once was. Remove these. At the very back of the console, back further behind the armrest (practically in the backseat) you will see a leather/vinyl covered trim piece. Lift that up from the topside...it just pops out, but is connected to the backup speaker..so don't rip it out. There are two more large Torx bolts there to remove.[*]The entire center armrest and radio trim lifts out. Remember to lift up slightly, then remove the cigarette lighter connector, then you can place the center armest piece outside of the car.[*]now you see the screws for the radio and climate control all in one bracket...eazy sneezy after that.[/ol]Good luck!

 

Thanks so much for that. I cannot believe how difficult it is to access those switches. I'm wondering if it's worth the effort now!

I also have a blown bulb behing the coolant terperature gauge - beside the fuel gauge. Is that easier to replace?

P.S. Took the advice of others and left the headlight unit open for a few days to get rid of the condensation. It seems that leaving the unit unsealed stops the condensation recurring.

 

Its not as hard to disassemble as it sounds, once you start it.

Can't tell you about how to replace the gauge bulb, i think it's more work to remove the cluster than the radio itself. Tap on the dash to make sure it isn't just a loose bulb...mine did that once, a strong tap and it got working again.

 

So did you get that bulb and problem resolved? let us know[]