XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Spun a Rod Bearing

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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 11:15 AM
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Default Spun a Rod Bearing

Hi Guys,
Just purchased a two owner 01 XK8 with maintenance records and clean Carfax.
To make a long story short, I put about 600 miles on it and started hearing a ticking noise slowly getting louder.
I was out of town with it so had it towed to the nearest dealer who says "Catastrophic Engine Failure" and hands me a estimate for about $20,000.
Not gonna happen!
So I'm fairly handy with a wrench and have decided that with the help of some of my gear head friends, this is my new winter project.
I'm new to Jaguars so if any of you could point me in the right direction for manuals, specific tools and reputable parts sources I'd appreciate it.
And if anyone knowledgeable close to Madison WI would like to stop by, Pints and Pizza is on me.
Thanks, Terry
 
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 11:24 AM
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Well, I usually say, 'Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar' but doesn't sound like that is appropriate here.

Welcome to the forum anyway. The JTIS is available for down load at the top of this forum. That will be a start.

Do you think it is a total engine failure? There are a couple 'ticking' issues far short of a spun rod bearing such as failed cam chain tensioners and guides. Is the noise from the front or top of the engine or the bottom?
 

Last edited by test point; Dec 27, 2015 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 11:52 AM
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Thanks for the welcome!
Yea I went from my never let me down Miata to this Sexy but unpredictable XK8.
I've owned some MG's and Triumphs in the past so it's not completely unexpected but so soon after purchase. Oh well.

The dealer said rod bearing, and I had a friend who owns a automotive machine shop have a listen and we're pretty sure it's more than valve gear. It's a loud knock.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 12:06 PM
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Since the crank is probably damaged, it might make more sense to buy a replacement block. The bottom end is usually very solid, so swapping might be cheaper. Whatever you do, use the 4.2 steel head gaskets for reassembly.

There is a engine rebuild guide that was provided by motorcarman, I believe. It might be in the Sticky's, but hopefully some one will provide a link.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 12:13 PM
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Because of the cost and hours at stake I would still suggest removing the cam covers and inspecting the timing gear first.

Also, it is possible to get a knocking sound due to a faulty bearing in the serpentine belt idler, which causes the serpentine belt tensioner to repeatedly snap back and forth. This can be visually checked for.

Lastly if a spun bearing is still suspected, you might want to consider a good used engine rather than a repair. Given the difficulty of working on these engines and the cost of parts, you very likely will come well ahead financially and on the hours spent.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 01:00 PM
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I love these forums!
And I appreciate all thoughts and corrections, as I said I'm new to Jaguars so feel free to call me a idiot when need be.
I will download the JTIS manual.
I will remove the cam covers and inspect the timing gear.
I will check the serpentine belt tensioner.

Thoughts on used engine.
From what I see most of the used engines have about 100k on them and cost around $2000.
I would not really know how good of condition it's in.
Would still spend money to upgrade the timing gear and water pump and gaskets and seals.
If I can use my engine I start off with the $2000 I didn't use for a used one.
And if mine is rebuildable, it'll be like having a new engine vs used questionable.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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You didn't mention how many miles. Any relationship to miles and routine maintenance or lack there of to the problem? Not too many engines fail in this manner. Internal engine parts complexity and cost coupled with the aluminum block cause engines to get swapped out far more often than rebuilt.

Your engine will swap with '99 XK8, '00 - '02 XK8/R and XJ8/R.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 04:41 PM
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I'm sorry I did leave out the mileage, 107000 miles.
From the records I saw it seemed to be fairly well kept.
It was also in Texas for its life so rust free ( hopefully easier to work on without the rust too)
 
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 07:41 PM
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Having just completed a full tear down and rebuild on a 2000 XKR, I can assure you that it is a doable job, but not inexpensive. Sourcing the parts can be done through many of the vendors who advertise here, and there are only a few special tools you will need. Doing tensioners and chains is certainly recommended.

Before you take the engine out, drop the lower oil pan and look for shrapnel. I thought I dodged the rebuild bullet since I could turn the engine over with a breaker bar, but the junk in the pan proved otherwise. I found four spun bearings, and ended up replacing the crank and four rods.

The Engine Assembly manual and JITS were my bibles during the process, and help from this forum made filling in any informational holes easy.

Good luck, and take your time.

TC
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 10:45 AM
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Hi Terry,


I just bought a 2000 XKR in September of this year and live in Edgerton WI and work in Madison. I also purchased the JTIS disk online which may be of some help to you. While not a knowledgeable mechanic by any means I would be more than happy to assist with any needed information from the JTIS disk. Best of luck.


Bob Halverson
 

Last edited by halveb; Dec 28, 2015 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 11:58 AM
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Send me your email and I will send you what will seem like a gift straight from god himself...the entire workshop manual for the 1999 XK8, and by all means my dear forum peeps, correct me if I'm wrong, but it should be the same for your engine.




$20,000 for an engine rebuild, you could run out and buy THREE XK8s for that amount.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 12:26 PM
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In parts costs alone, these are expensive engines to rebuild. I would definitely do a partial dismantling to determine the exact cause of the issue first before making any assumptions.

Graham
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TC Johnson
Before you take the engine out, drop the lower oil pan and look for shrapnel
Definitely do your due diligence to confirm the diagnostic. I assume draining the oil and running a magnet through it would do it.

I have dealt with a spun bearing before (4 cyl engine), and it was not pretty. There was shrapnel everywhere, including on the lobes of the camshaft. I figured the small oil passages were probably loaded with it, too. In my analysis, even if I felt confident I could have located and thrown parts at the problem, I was very unsure that all this effort and expenses would have amounted to a reliable engine afterwards. I ended up replacing the entire engine (long block) for that car.

As advised by others, check if you find any shrapnel past the oil filter. If you do, you have to assume it went everywhere, including VVT, camshaft bearing, etc. and possibly scored every surface they touched. In my view, no amount of cleaning can fix that.

You probably already know, but beware of any type of oil reserves that could also be loaded with shrapnel, like the oil cooler if your car has one. Frankly, some folks replace it altogether after such an event, or bypass it altogether.

If it was me, I would most definitely look for another engine.

Best of luck, keep us posted.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by halveb
........ I just bought a 2000 XKR in September of this year and live in Edgerton WI and work in Madison. I also purchased the JTIS disk online which may be of some help to you. .........
Originally Posted by marvin.d.miller
Send me your email and I will send you what will seem like a gift straight from god himself...the entire workshop manual for the 1999 XK8, .........
JTIS is available as a FREE download from the forum. See General Tech Help for the link.

Graham
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 02:05 PM
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Jaguar Heritage have the X100 parts catalogue (JEPC) on-line if you are looking for part numbers or parts:


Genuine Jaguar Parts and Jaguar Accessories for classic Jaguars from Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
 

Last edited by woox4; Dec 28, 2015 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 02:49 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys, do appreciate it!

I'm going to pull the motor (it has to come out no matter what) and investigate
the problem. After that we'll see if it can be repaired or should be replaced.

Now I'll try and download the manual then get out in the garage and get to it.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 04:11 PM
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Check your email


Marvin
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 05:36 PM
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Is it an engine speed knock (rod) or a half-engine speed knock? (valve train)

If the former, I would drop the pan and check the journals. I would second replacing the engine with a lower mileage one rather than repairing. Saves a lot of time.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by johns427

If the former, I would drop the pan and check the journals. Saves a lot of time.
Unlike a conventional American V8, you cannot just drop the pan get access to the journals. They are contained by a bedplate which needs to be carefully assembled sealed and torqued, which is best done out of the car.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 06:40 PM
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I have both Engine Repair Course 180 and 168.
Since the 168 has BOTH the V8 and V6 I uploaded it to the large file area.

Read it and familiarize yourself with the engine. It is NOT just replacing parts like the old days. There are no OEM ".010 under" parts that you just machine and replace.
The bearing selection alone will test your math skills.

You might also have a 'piston slap' but that usually gets 'quieter' with the engine at operating temp.

Probably just cheaper to find a 'good-used' AJ27 engine.

bob gauff
 
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