Steering Tilt - mystery deepens
#1
Steering Tilt - mystery deepens
Wanted to run this by you, perhaps someone knows the answer. Background: New tilt motor, reach and tilt both work great for: memory settings and / or Auto positioning. The steering wheel switch does not work beyond Auto on/off setting.
Took measurements, Ignition on, any switch position (in/out, up/down) all show 12 volts battery on both wires.
Wire 1 is Battery wire that connects to pin 1 on switch. Switch sends this signal on command through one of 4 resistors. That goes to wire 2 pin 2, output to tell Body Processor module which direction to move the steering wheel.
I found 12 volts (I am using 12 volts as universal battery level, of course it is 13.1 or something) on both wire 1 and 2, so I assumed it to be a bad switch. Purchased a switch, tested it before installation. Continuity OK shows each of the 4 resistor values when selected.
New switch installed - no movement. Measured again: same 12 volts on both wires. Oh what fun, I measured the connector without the switch - Ignition on: Wire 1 and wire 2 both show battery!!
Ever heard of this? Does that then point to a faulty BPM? For the sake of completeness I should acknowledge that unswitched wire 1 and wire 2 show 0.5 or 0.6 volt difference. Not sure if it matters. Please share your thoughts. Thank you.
Took measurements, Ignition on, any switch position (in/out, up/down) all show 12 volts battery on both wires.
Wire 1 is Battery wire that connects to pin 1 on switch. Switch sends this signal on command through one of 4 resistors. That goes to wire 2 pin 2, output to tell Body Processor module which direction to move the steering wheel.
I found 12 volts (I am using 12 volts as universal battery level, of course it is 13.1 or something) on both wire 1 and 2, so I assumed it to be a bad switch. Purchased a switch, tested it before installation. Continuity OK shows each of the 4 resistor values when selected.
New switch installed - no movement. Measured again: same 12 volts on both wires. Oh what fun, I measured the connector without the switch - Ignition on: Wire 1 and wire 2 both show battery!!
Ever heard of this? Does that then point to a faulty BPM? For the sake of completeness I should acknowledge that unswitched wire 1 and wire 2 show 0.5 or 0.6 volt difference. Not sure if it matters. Please share your thoughts. Thank you.
#2
Voltage on the switches is not terribly meaningful when they are open circuit.
For reliability (in theory!), it is current flow of around 10 mA that is sensed as described in section 3.7 here: http://www.thejagwrangler.com/upload...chitecture.pdf
For reliability (in theory!), it is current flow of around 10 mA that is sensed as described in section 3.7 here: http://www.thejagwrangler.com/upload...chitecture.pdf
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 04-15-2015 at 07:38 PM. Reason: fixed typo
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Johnken (04-15-2015)
#3
WhiteXKR,
Thanks, now I'm going to pull out some resistors and see if they will set the collum in motion when I attach them directly to the wires in the switch's connector.
I hope you're right, but the literature mentions specific voltages for each of the specific movements (up down in out). That doesn't jive with current measurements.
I guess I'm really surprised to see 14 volts on the wire that attaches to the BPM. Well I'll try it and see. I can't imagine what is preventing the switch commands from initiating movement.
Well (thinking out loud) a bad pot in the tilt motor prevented movement, perhaps a bad pot in the reach motor is signalling the BPM not to work. The tilt motor is an EZ replacement. There are no clear instructions posted on the Reach motor. Perhaps I'll get the honor.
So my plans are 1) Bypass switch use a resisitor to test for movement. 2) Try to replace reach motor and see what gets working then. (Reach motor works fine via memory and/or auto settings); Switch is a swinging problem, worked OK for 3 minutes last week.
Thanks, now I'm going to pull out some resistors and see if they will set the collum in motion when I attach them directly to the wires in the switch's connector.
I hope you're right, but the literature mentions specific voltages for each of the specific movements (up down in out). That doesn't jive with current measurements.
I guess I'm really surprised to see 14 volts on the wire that attaches to the BPM. Well I'll try it and see. I can't imagine what is preventing the switch commands from initiating movement.
Well (thinking out loud) a bad pot in the tilt motor prevented movement, perhaps a bad pot in the reach motor is signalling the BPM not to work. The tilt motor is an EZ replacement. There are no clear instructions posted on the Reach motor. Perhaps I'll get the honor.
So my plans are 1) Bypass switch use a resisitor to test for movement. 2) Try to replace reach motor and see what gets working then. (Reach motor works fine via memory and/or auto settings); Switch is a swinging problem, worked OK for 3 minutes last week.
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