Looks like you were dead on with your guidance; the damper on the fuel rail on the driver's side has a very slow leak (a drip every 30 seconds or so at idle). You stated somewhere that these aren't available anymore as a Jag part, I was wondering if it might be a Ford item?
In the meantime I'll start working on finding either a part or can it be plugged with a screw?
Suggestions are welcome.

 

Does anyone have a procedure for the removal of the fuel rail and injectors on a 4.2 naturally aspirated engine?
Reading through various threads I'm leaning towards using injectorrx (of Houston TX) to close the damper port on each rail and to service the injectors while this is done. It looks like it would cost just a little more to do this compared to the damper replacement.

 

Double check they still offer that welding service. From memory, a thread mentioned they do not do that anymore.

Were you able to locate the part number for the damper? I believe it is listed for the S-type, but somehow not for the XK. Complete 4.2L fuel rails are no-longer-available, but dampers are, AFAIK.

The removal is as much a pain as you can imagine by looking around. See if you can find notes regarding the replacement of the valley hoses (which you should definitely change "while you are there"). Start with removing the throttle body assembly. Then move on to the plastic intake runners, fuel rail and injectors. NOTE: you will need a "modern" fuel line disconnect tool (more like a set, with different sizes). I disconnected the fuel supply line in the wheel well. Expect some frustration with the removal of the injectors/connectors and moving/flexing these aged/baked harnesses.

FWIW, this job is somewhat frustrating as it involves opening a lot of old/baked/brittle stuff and being confronted with decisions about replacing things as they reveal themselves. There are lots of gaskets, seals, bushings, etc. that seem to be good candidates for replacement but are hard to inventory and order upfront. For example, the plastic intake is bolted to a set of short metal runners, which means 2 layers of gaskets, one (head-to-runner) easy to find, another (runner-to-plastic) much more confusing to locate (you need a Range Rover part apparently). In other words, there are lot of while-you-are-there decisions to make, making this job anywhere between, say, $100 to $500. It might be a good idea to do a smoke test beforehand to see if there are air leaks around the plastic intake/runners and spend the time locating these hard-to-find gaskets. Aslo, you will likely encounter a few greasy/dirty parts you will want to clean. Oil in plastic intake and EGR "vomit" in the throttle elbow come to mind. IOW, budget some time for this job...

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

During the phone call I made yesterday to Injectorrx the person I was talking to said the person who had that expertise had retired and they no longer offered the service. SNG Barratt has the replacement damper, it's part#JLM21358. It shows two choices, the Jag item at north of $230 or an oem item at around $70. Both are on back order ( no surprise there).

 

FWIW, Part# AJ83838 also comes up in various threads about this issue...

PS: The part# you listed comes up as a fuel pressure regulator for the 4.0L engines, definitely something else.

 

I'll check again to be sure but I did give them the last 6 numbers of the VIN# since at some point in the manufacture of these cars the components changed.

 

That^^^^

 

Thanks again for your advice, you saved me getting the wrong part. AJ83838 is the correct item so I changed my order and surprisingly them had one on the shelf and should be in my hand in a couple of days but I still need to wait for the back ordered o rings. Does anyone have the spec on these?

 

can you snap a picture of the damper when you receive the part? I believe the O-Ring should be supplied with the damper

 

I certainly will; below is what SNG B sent to me during my search for the correct part and it shows a seal.

Complete with a seal.

 

This is the part that came in the mail today. As you can see, it has the O-Ring mounted.

 

Thanks for the picture Bob, I was more interested in the etchings that is found on the other side of the damper. So I can cross reference part number, etc. If you see my reply on the other thread you made, I have information on similar/same part for $50ish, the one I purchased though came with a black colored o-ring. *don't drop the damper I hear you can damage the damper and clog the fuel fail if dropped.

 

It's difficult to see but if you zoom in on this image what you'll see is:
1397ADS
380Kpa
2W93
9F775-AA
I'd like to know if you make a cross reference as this part is Jaguar only and really very expressive.

 

It's difficult to see but if you zoom in on this image what you'll see is:
1397ADS
380Kpa
2W93
9F775-AA
I'd like to know if you make a cross reference as this part is Jaguar only and really very expressive.

 

I wish I took a picture of the replacement dampers before I installed them but my original dampers has "1282 EHU" etched on one and "1282 EID" etched on the other along with the part number: 2W93-9F775-AA and pressure rating 380KPA. This lead me to believe that your "1397 ADS" and my "1282 EHU" etchings are irrelevant and might be a build date or something. My replacement damper that I purchased on injectorplanet.com had yet another 7 digit etching but had the same part number and pressure rating. My replacement damper did have a black colored o-ring compared to your blue o-ring and it also arrived with the tang clips closed instead of open like in your picture so I had to use a small flat blade to pry them open.

A google search reveals injectorplanet.com (also has a store on ebay) is the only person that sells 2W93-9F775-AA for $50 further review the part they are selling is REMANUFACTURED. The only difference I can tell between the Jaguar part and the one injectorplanet sells is the different colored o-ring, the tang clips arriving closed, and the price difference. I'm still waiting for some extra parts before I am able to put my car back together, and checking it if leaks before I recommend anyone save the $200 or so $ by buying remanufactured instead of Jaguar new.

 

Well the urge to make progress got the better of me this morning and so I order one of these items from injectorplanet.com and I intend to install the Jag item on the side that is leaking and the Ford component (the id # leads to this being a Ford item) on the other rail just to get a service life comparison under the same conditions. This will probably get done next weekend when the replacement injector o-rings arrive from SNG B.

 

Any update on your issue Bob? I'm sill waiting for some intake manifold gaskets to put my XKR back together. I am a little concerned with the dampers leaking again though because I have a fair amount of play on the dampers, curious to hear how much play your new dampers have? I didn't take too many notes but my old dampers seemed stuck on while my new ones seems pretty loose, I would hate to have to pull everything apart again if it leaks once more, I guess I wont find out till I put it back together though :/

 

A couple of things:
1. I have got two new dampers that intend to install on 2/12.
2. Since my last update, I ensured that the one that was leaking was correctly seated and since then I haven't detected a smell of gasoline. This tells me that the seal is suspect. Installing a new damper and seal I expect to solve my problem.

I'll post an update after 2/12.

 

Did you pull the old out and re-seat? or did you just kind of move it around? I'm wondering if I should take my new dampers off and try to reseat but I don't want to risk ripping the o-ring. Does anyone know how to test if the dampers leak while the supercharger is off, etc? can I introduce pressure via the shrader valve with a bike pump or ?? I tried putting my ignition to position two to pressurize via fuel pump but that didnt work and with no coolant in the engine i dont want to burn out the electric waterpump that runs

 

The XK8 is far less congested in this area than on the XKR so what I was able to do was to use some soft jaw pliers to pull the damper up into the mounting hole using the fule rail to pull against as I closed the jaws. There is a small shoulder on the mounting that it looks like the tines on the damper need to grip. Once the tines were above the shoulder I called it good. Since then the smell has gone away. To your point of possibly damaging the o-ring, if you used silicone lube on this prior to mounting I would imagine all will be well if you try the same approach. Nothing to loose I'd say.