Which is the way it should have been from the factory, except that it is not conducive to rapid assembly.

It's a good thing it was done then, given that the stock dry fill is only 7.2 ounces to start with.

 

I have my supercharger out for a heater hose replacement and have 120k miles. I guess I should change the oil, but want to use 5-30 mobil one. If there is a tech out there, should I do it?

 

Yes change it, but do not use motor oil !

Use GM supercharger oil, GM p/n: 12345982 , this can be purchased at any GM dealership

 

I have a device called "Mighty Vac" for bleeding brakes. I think this would make sucking the old fluid out relatively easy. I haven`t tried it yet on my supercharger, but I intend to when I want to change the fluid...

 

A mighty vac would work. Or a turkey baster or a syringe.. or a shop vac.

 

I used the gm part...10 bucks for 4 oz. They have it at gm dealers in stock.

 

Such a good Thread. Exactly what I waiting for. Has anyone performed a snout rebuild? Can I rebuild the snout bearings whilst the SC on the car still? It is just starting to clickity-clack (not the chain guides). I bought the kit off of ebay.
Any Pointers and or Advice is appreciated.
***Snout Coupler*** Front and Rear Snout Bearings***8 Oz. of Supercharger Oil***Oil Seal***Snap Ring***Needle bearings***Gasket Maker***

 

There are several illustrated guides on the interwebs if you search for them.

With both front and rear bearings, you will be removing the SC.

How much was the kit?

 

short money. $99 delivered. . 14 yo SC, I should send it out to PSE and have the Pro's make it right. Good project for the winter. I am going suck out the SC oil and fill it with Lucas, that will quiet the clickity clack.

 

This is exactly my issue.

How to replace an Eaton Supercharger Coupler

Does your Eaton supercharger make a rattling sound, sort of like rocks rattling around? Is the noise very distinct during idle or low speeds and then soften up as you drive your vehicle?

[LEFT]Supercharger Coupler

The purpose of this supercharger coupler is to connect the front nose to the gears of the superchargers so that it can allow the internal parts of the supercharger to spin together. The supercharger coupler prevents the supercharger from gear damage by absorbing the shock load that can be caused by increase throttle, and it forces the flex of the supercharger coupler rather than breaking the teeth on the superchargers gears. SuperchargersOnline only uses the stock coupler. There are a lot of imitations of the supercharger coupler. From the outside the design looks very similar. They both have the proper amount of holes and correct size. However, the difference is the inside of the coupler. The stock coupler has a spring inside of it. So beware of the imitations.


How long does it take?

These supercharger couplers are very simple to replace and are very inexpensive compared to a supercharger rebuild. All together the replacement of the coupler will take around 1-2 hours complete.

original site: SuperchargersOnline

 

Good deal!

Forget the Lucas if you want the SC to live.

The oil in the SC is basically turbine oil. Don't forget the SC spins *much* faster than the engine.

 

Does this whirring sound like something related to the supercharger to you?


There is some power steering noise on top of that, but don't let that distract you.

 

I hear a whistle sort of noise and a lower frequency chock-chock-chock. Which are you referring to?

Does the noise change with m at all?

The chocking seems normal for an eaton (to me at least). The whistle sounds like there might be a small vacuum/boost leak.

I had the tube that runs from the S/C outlet to the fuel regulator pop off once at it made a similar sort of funny noise. It sucks air in at idle and blows it out under boost so the noise changed with RPM.

 

I was unaware that there was a vacuum modulated FPR... maybe you mean the bypass valve?

It does sound like a vac leak or some other form of leak.. what happens when you give it gas? Check the small section of hoses that link the SC out put to the charge pipe. One for each bank.

 

I had my Supercharger rebuilt by PSE. This is what they sent me about checking and refilling the oil. It seemed to have chopped off the sides and bottom

 

Has anybody managed to remove the snout without removing the SC ?

 

I doubt you could get the bolts out but assuming you could get it off, it will make an awful mess of gear oil all over everything.

Removing the SC isn't all that difficult and with it off, you can replace the heater hoses and generally clean things up in the engine bay.