I have run my torque app on the car while driving various speeds and the like. Sometimes the car gauge will read right below midway like it typically always does. I drive home today mixed hwy and side streets, gauge stays right below mid mark, I get in it 45 min later and it rides right on the middle line of the gauge, going even a hair above then back down. My fans are coming on fine, The torque app have never read a reading above 198 and usually stays below that. Is the gauge in the car just being goofy??? It was about 25 outside when this happened this go round. Only thing was on drive after the 45 minute or so shut down I had the AC on.

 

If you are still using the OEM gauge, then it will move to the middle as it warms up and then stay there. Until your engine temperature spikes excessively and then things get ugly. The OEM gauge is just a glorified idiot light.

The fact that an unmodified gauge reads even a "hair above" is unusual. Based on your torque gauge readings, sounds like you're fine.

BTW, I have the RealGauge installed and it is usually in the 198-202F range until it is hot and I am in traffic. Then I have seen 215F.

 

+1 on Jag#4 's information.

What also strikes me as odd also is that your fans are coming on if your temperature never goes above 198 F (unless the A/C is on). Can you elaborate? Are they always on or do they come on when the temperature climbs and then cycle off? Typically you should not see the fans trigger until you are in the 210 degree neighborhood.

 

Steve, do you know when the fans come on due to the A/C compressor?

 

The fans come on whenever the A/C is turned on.

 

I noticed mine would move around like that, barely below, barely above, for about two weeks, which I, knowing the gauges, promptly ignored. Then I got a low engine coolant message. Seems kitty was thirsty to the affect of 16 ounces of nice purified water. After I put that in, warm up and whap, dead center for the temp gauge. Now, if the needle moves a tiny before and after, I'll take note...

 

I had my ac on when the fans were on.

My 97 jag ALWAYS stayed right below the middle mark once at running temp, a needles width from the middle mark. I am seeing this 03 stay below at the same spot then go to ?the middle. Maybe I have a bit more sensitive temp gauge? After I did all the work to the cooling system I have been keeping an eye on it visually in the tank and on the T-App time to time.

 

Same experience here. The temperature gauge needle is nearly -- but not quite -- stationary over a wide temperature range. First indication of low coolant was a tiny movement of the needle. Showed up before low coolant message.

 

The OEM temp gauges are similar to an idiot light. They don't come on until you are in trouble. If you do not have the or want the OE installed map program there are aftermarket gauges available that fit in the place where the map screen now is. Accurate temp and oil pressure along with a clock.

 

Well was on HWY it went up to needle on middle line. Torque app had me running 185, got off hwy stopped ate, drove around, got back on hwy, still same needle placement but was running at 186.8 which I assume it is ok?

 

Yep, 185-186F is OK. Maybe a little cool.

Again, the OEM gauge has 3 readings: cold, normal, and you are about to need a new engine . I don't think it goes much above mid-setting until it is over 220F.

 

strange? About 90 min after I had parked the car I took off the resivor cap to check the fluid level, when I did I heard a BURP/GARGLE sound come the front of the motor, tstat housing, radiator or rad hose not sure. is that normal? I would have thought it would get that air bubble to the resivor tank?

 

Seems normal. I get a similar thing, but the sound seems more like it's coming from the area of the expansion tank itself or the recovery tube. I think the noise says the system was holding pressure or vacuum (probably the latter) until you released the cap.

Come to think ... we know it takes 15 psi pressure for the cap to let coolant OUT to the recovery tank. But I don't know how much vacuum has to be there (happens as engine cools) before coolant gets pulled back IN. Anybody?


On the temp gauge thing ... it does move slightly in the "normal" range but not enough to see a change of 1 or 2 degrees. A change of, say, 20 degrees ... that you can definitely see with a little practice.

 

Dennis you led me to a question:

Come to think ... we know it takes 15 psi pressure for the cap to let coolant OUT to the recovery tank. But I don't know how much vacuum has to be there (happens as engine cools) before coolant gets pulled back IN. Anybody?

I have the liner off for cleaning and some maint, I noticed my recovery container has little to no Rad fluid, though the reservoir is full. This maybe ok since it's been sitting for a several weeks, but the question is this:

Should there be a min amount of fluid in the recovery tank to allow for proper xfer thru pressure cycles? If it's empty or almost there would be a chance to pull air ? Theoretically what goes out would come back in but the tube in the tank doesn't 'touch' the bottom of the tank (ie 1/8-1/4").

 

Good morning, Jack

Coincidence here. I was poking at that same area on Saturday. Like you, I found very little coolant in the recovery tank but the hose was resting against the bottom of the tank, with an angle cut at its end, as I think it should be. (A little different than the picture in the Barratt catalog, BTW) Mine is a daily driver.

With your hose not touching the bottom, seems to me coolant should accumulate there ... if and when you exceed the 15 PSI pressure that opens the expansion cap. The system would not be able recover all the coolant sent to overflow. As the level drops below the bottom of the hose, it would begin pulling air back into the expansion tank.

But if this is a problem, it would be self limiting. Next time you filled the expansion tank you would find a slightly lower level (because of coolant left in the overflow tank). You'd refill it, and when coolant was again sent to overflow, you'd be starting with the level there higher, closer to the bottom of the hose. Sooner or later, this process would cause the level to rise to meet the hose, and from then on only fluid, no air, would be returned (ignoring any evaporation from the overflow tank.)

BTW I used some silicone at the spot where the tube enters the overflow tank. I had in mind both to keep the tube from moving, and also to prevent any fumes from leaving the tank there.

I still don't have a clue how expansion tank cap goes into "recovery" mode, allowing fluid to backflow from the recovery tank.

(Did you ever get to install the spring, BTW?)