I'm getting an intermittent ABS/ASC/Traction Ctrl Warnings light. It comes on after driving several miles and stays on until shutdown. When I restart the car, it is off until I drive for awhile again. So I'm thinking a wheel speed sensor is starting to go bad versus the bad solder joint in the module (at least that's what I'm hoping). Is there a bench test I can perform on the sensors? I have already pulled them out and cleaned them

I got an INNOVA 3140 for Xmas; however I haven't had it hooked up when the light is on yet. Checking after I shut down there is no Engine Fault Code to read. Don't know if it will read the fault or not while driving when the light comes on. I'm hoping it might tell me which sensor...that would be nice. PS, does anyone know of a specific Diagnostic tester (Brand, Model) that might read/detect a chassis fault like this?

 

OK I see on the OBDII Code Scanners thread that the AutoEnginuity Scanner can read Jaguar "Body" codes; however you need to purchase the Jaguar Enhanced Expansion for an additional $230 plus the scanner for $250. So guess that's not an option for me unless I can find a shop with one.

BAck to my original question. Can the sensors be bench tested?

 

You can guess, clean sensors, ask questions and guess again but you will never know until you interogate the ABS module!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Only the Module has the DTC stored and is taunting you with the fault display.

PDU,WDS,IDS,SDD and AutoEnginuity are the only diagnostics that I know of for the C codes (Chassis DTCs) so get it diagnosed or keep guessing.

bob gauff

 

Steve,

I'm a little bleary-eyed to look back at this tonight, but had posted some stuff earlier which should turn up via a search on ASC/Trac. If you're still in the market tomorrow, I'll find it.

- By opening the big connector next to the ABS box you can access some pin pairs that connect to the wheel sensors. Each pair should read about 1k ohms. This really is the equivalent of bench testing the wiring plus the sensor.

- I think the sensors are simple coils so if the resistance is good, they're probably OK. I have successfully found sensor wiring trouble this way.

- What you describe does sound to me like a sensor or wiring as opposed to the solder joint problem. The latter should show a fault right at startup.

I'll check with you here tomorrow,

 

I would appreciate any additional info you can find DENNISO7...thanks.
I have the JTIDS and wiring diagrams, but it probably won't show me which terminal or poles inside go to which respective sensors.

Wish I had the enhanced Code readers Motorcarman is suggesting.
I will call the only independent Jaguar shop I know of in Central FL in hopes they may have it.


I'd pull all the sensors and do a resistance camparison, but my 55 Chevy is on my lift at present. It'll have to wait a bit.

 

OK, if I'm doing this right, this ...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...572#post248572
will get you to the post I had in mind.

If I were writing this now I would add something about the intermittent nature of wiring fault problems, but see if this gets you started and we can talk more if you want.

I don't think you need to pull the sensors at this point; probably not at all.

Good luck,

 

FL Steve, I have my autoenginuity back home with me (with the expansion pack) and I'd be willing to loan it to you if you cover shipping.

 

Fla steve, had the exact same problem with my '98 KX8. Turned out to be dirty wheel sensor. I guess sensor doesn't work for the first few miles when cold. When ever I would drive through deep dirty standing water or snow I would get the same dash warning. Another drive through clean water or a quick hosing and warning would go away. Jack

 

H20Boy, that is incredibly generous of you to offer to let me use your AutoEnginuity diagnostic reader. I want to get my car back on the lift, and clean the sensors again before I would ask to use it. Let me do that first and if that doesn't clear it up then I would be very appreciative to take u your offer. IF THE TIME COMES..I WOULD GLADLY PAY SHIPPING AND HEY WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE.....THANKS

 

just send me a pm steve if it comes to that point, unfortunately, with all of the posts that I respond to, in here and amongst the other model sections and new member area, I do not subscribe anymore to new posts...I may not see your next message.

Check out that 3-foot section of wiring too from the sensor thru the fenderwell, look for cracked segments or even a pin/wire loose in the connector before going to the AE.

 

WOW Matt!!!!! Just WOW!!!

 

I hate to have a valuable resource just sitting here that can possibly help someone. It doesn't cost me anything, and I only loan it out to members with a responsible appearance. Its been to Hawaii, Illinois, and AZ I think..that was my first, a long time ago.

 

Hi guys, I just got some codes from a shop saying both LF and RF sensors are bad, but i get ABS then TRAC errors just turning on the ignition - resistances also read ok, cables look perfect, could there really be something wrong with the sensors?

 

I had a persistent left front failure using my Autoenginuity. Switching the sensor and connecting wire with right side did not fix it. I sent the module out for repair, but that didn't work either, so I replaced the module with a used one. No problem now, except my cruise control doesn't work. But I have had occasional failure of that since I bought the car and I think it's a communication problem in the CAN.

 

Well, sure, something could be wrong with them but I don't know what other sensor test the car itself could do when you turn on the ignition other than to check DC resistance.

What actual resistance values are you seeing for the four sensors?

 

The MOST COMMON fault with the front wheel speed sensors is the short link harnesses (from the chassis harness to the speed sensor).

They LOOK PERFECT but they flex over and over and go open circuit at times.

If the link harness goes open circuit for a fraction of a second, a fault is detected and the dtc will be logged.

bob gauff

 

Is this the part number for xk8's?
LNF3410AA

Everywhere I look it shows as XJ's, so I want to be sure.

Thanks!!

 

I bought a XJ8 sensor on ebay for a spare and it works in my XK8.

 

Had similar problem for several months which was also intermittent. OBD check showed C1175 code. Check resistance of both rear wheel sensors and found left side sensor open.
Since these units are magnetic, I monitored current on pins and had no response when magnet was moved passed the defective sensor. Replaced sensor (very expensive) at a part cost of $260.00 (TRW part which probably cost less than $80.00 to manufacture). Problem is gone and hasn't reappeared.

PS cleaning is probably worth the effort, but a more definitive test is required to determine failure of part.

 

You can identify a bad sensor by monitoring the resistance while rotating the wheel. If that is good, move up to the connection in the engine compartment to check the cable. Also flex the cable while rotating the wheel and look for open circuit there.