Let me start with the good news I've never seen posted before. Many of us with the Tilt not functioning think we are stuck with the uncomfortable position until all is figured out. Well while trouble shooting it last night I found something very usefull. You can easily mannually move the shaft that adjusts up and down if you disconnect the White power connector to the motor. My in and out works so I didn't pursue that. But this one item may bring a big relief to some of you. Here's how to best leverage this find. Unplug the harness mentioned above, adjust the tilt all the way up. Plug back in. Turn off Auto set. Turn on ignition. Program this up position into memory 1; Repeat process for tilt all the way down in memory 2. You can use your memory buttons to adjust the tilt until the switch is fixed.

Wow that is strange that while the plug is connected, you can not move the shaft, unplugged, moves easily. Maybe someone can explain that if they have a chance.

Here is my progress so far, it may help you too: Situation - Wheel telescopes fine from memory, not at all from switch. (1) Goal = Prove it to the switch; Switch wiring left to right (slate/pink #1 - battery for switch movement; wire #2 takes the output from the switch to the body module to indicate direction; wire #3(yellow) battery for auto set; wire 4(receives the battery (auto motion on) from wire 3 or is open (auto motion off)). The switch has 4 positions, each position (up/down/in/out) puts a different resistor (100, 220, 480, 840ohms) in series with the wire #1.

First I measured the resistance across all 4 positions in the swich - all OK. Switch works. Then I took a 100 ohm resistor and placed it between wire 1 and 2 mentioned above - NOTHING happened. This now tells me the wire 2 connection between the switch and the body module must be checked.

Many posts described motor based issues. Since directions from the memory button to the body module can direct the motor without problems, I think the motor and connections are all OK. (the wireing schematic shows wire #2 going directly to body module).

Hope it helps you, I'll keep you posted, and always welcome comments.

John

 

As you seem to be a tinkering man, could I ask something.


I too ofcourse have the problem with a stuck tilt and broken reach so to me it seems that Jaguar has put it backwards.






The driver circuit for the tilt is too weak, so it shuts of and the reach is to strong so it breaks the wire.
What if you swaped the connectors for the tilt and reach motor and encoder assemblys, would everything work then? Ofcourse the manual joystick would not work the right way until you move the resistors but as a test.
The computer would not know the difference as it only drives a motor against an analog value.

 

Well it would be easy enough to check. I forget which post I put this in so excuse duplication: Wireing to Tilt switch: Slate/pink (call it #1) this is 12 volt battery to the up/down/in/out selector. It goes through the switch which has a resistor in series with each movement. You can verify the switch with an ohm meter. disconnect and remove switch. Put one lead on the corresponding male tang on the switch (aligator clip good for this). the other lead on the tang right next to it. Move the switch to each of the 4 positions. (just looked at schematic: Up - 270 ohms; down 100 ohms; out 470 ohms; in 820 ohms). This is specific background as an FYI. Your question is about swapping the inputs at the motors. Let's think - There must be a feedback mechanism associated with each direction since the memory can put it back to a specific position exactly. Would this be lost or even a problem with the swap (IOW, you have it moving out, is the feedback monitoring up/down?). Obviously when it reaches end of travel it will time out and should not be an issue. From your description it sounds like you can only have one direction (up/down OR in/out) working anyway. I think you are saying that in/out works, so swap that at the motor to make it go up/down. It might be easier to just run battery to the motor with a fused switch to do the job, but as long as the gap in feedback mentioned above isn't an issue why not. It is just 12 volts dc.

You didn't mention if you have memory buttons or not. If you do - do they work? Please come back to discuss further, I'm sorry I wasn't as specific and focused as I like to be. We will get to the bottom of it. Hey what exactly does "break wire" mean to you? I don't want to assume. John

 

Hi.


Ofcourse you do not only swap the wires to the motor but also the wires to the potentiometers, so while the computer is driving the motor it is looking at the same movements feedback. Else it will not work at all. But according to the diagram they are all in the same connector at the motor side.


By "wire" I mean the short steel wire connecting the motor to the steering Wheel plastic nut.


I am not as skilled with the mechanics, I'm more of a thinker so I was hoping someone with the mechanicals skills would accept this challenge. And if it is successfull I could spend a weekend trying to solve it on my own car.