Well, I've got the 1997 XK8 in the garage ready to start the job the on timing chain tensioners. I am looking for a step by step of tasks to get this job done, but can't find one. I see some partial documentation in the sticky that starts with pics of the cam gear and chain zip-tied. However I would like something more that indicates the process start to finish.
I thought I had found one like this with torque values and tool size, but cannot locate it now. Anyone got info on where to find?
Thanks,
Dennis

watching with interes, need to do the same.

120 in lb

cam caps are 95

Here is a link to the AJ series Engine Repair Course:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqpy3bbjzd...e_168.pdf?dl=0

Pay particular attention to page 74 of the PDF, or page 26 of the course using the numbers at the bottom of each page for reference. Note the correct camshaft timing is 45 degrees ATDC.

Use the correct tools for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt. DO NOT use the crankshaft holding tool to hold the crankshaft whilst removing the pulley bolt.

Note carefully these are inch pounds not foot pounds

I thought there was a handy PDF in the stickies by some guy who told us all off for being cissies about what he described as a simple job. The worst bit is getting the cam cover off. Each side there is one bolt that is a swine to get at with anything other than a swan neck ring spanner so it's a slow, slow process and there's the issue of the dipstick tube.

I'll try and locate the videos and links that helped me but really you follow your nose and are very, very careful. Having a buddy probably helps if only for moral support if like me you are intimidated by working on such an engine..

Hint about the dipstick tube.........................

LEAVE THE DIPSTICK IN THE TUBE.
DO NOT PULL THE TUBE ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE ENGINE.(leave the dipstick in the bock as it is longer than the tube and will guide the tube back in the block)
USE A SLIDE HAMMER TO PULL THE TUBE WITH A 'HOOK-TOOL' UNDER THE MOUNT TAB AFTER THE NUT IS REMOVED.

Trying to put the dipstick tube back in the block without a guide is difficult because the hole is behind the compressor mount brackets.

Dennis, here's a great place to start if you're going to do the complete job. Damien at O&DR Modurol has an extensive set of videos detailing every step. I did mine a couple months ago using his videos as a guide. This video will explain all the tools and parts you need, and his detailed videos have all the tool sizes and torques as you go.
Good luck, it's an extensive job, takes time, but other than a few bolts and the dip stick being tricky to remove as mentioned above, it's quite doable.
Just doing the upper tensioners is much less work, but if you have a high mileage car, you probably should do the whole job.

Xalty,
Thanks a million.
Just what I was looking for!!
Dennis

Dr Mike,
Thanks for the info, I'll be careful!
Cheers,
Dennis

Nick,
Thanks for the response. WoW! Lots of great info.
I'm probably going to do just the secondary's as I've got a 35,000 miles on this car.
Of course that may change once I open the engine up and see what is going on.
I'm sure I will have lots of questions for the forum.
Thanks,
Dennis

Motorcarman,
Thanks for the tips. I'll keep the forum members up-to-date with progress and I'm sure with lots of questions as this progresses.
Next up, get the repair manual!
Thanks,
Dennis

When I did mine a few years ago I documented as much as I could. See below.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/new-project-tensioners-214569/