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Call me crazy, and many do, but I keep getting info from Drive Motive on a timing chain set and water pump replacement for my 1997 XK8 that seems to be too good to be true. They list all for $120.00. I don't know what to think, but I could use some info to help me choose where to buy my replacement tensioners. Do I need to buy tensioners and chains? Or just the tensioners?
Some advice please.
Thanks,
Dennis
Motorcarman,
Maybe this is the wrong question, but do I need to replace the primary tensioners? If I go after the secondaries, will I be able to tell by looking if the primaries need replacing? Some people seem to suggest that you can get away with only replacing the secondaries. And I bring this up with trepidation do I need to replace the timing chains also?
This car has 35000 miles on it. I know its time not miles, but does that mean all of the timing set parts must be replaced? If so, where is the best place to get the best (correct) set? You mention the OEM brown ones, but I don't know where to obtain. I really only want to do this once. And please, I don't want to guess as to how they are installed!
Thanks,
Dennis
I have seen a few primary tensioner failures because the check valves in them fails and the blade against the chain starts 'rattling'. (very noisy)
The later all metal units have a ratchet to keep the tensioner blade against the chain without oil pressure needed.
The tensioner blades and guides also start to deteriorate and 'flake-off' pieces into the engine.
Everything in the online-type kits are usable except the primary guides if you have an early roller chain engine.
all of the timing kits are repackaged china specials, if you want quality you have to make it piece by piece. the tensioners work well but the guides are wrong and people act confused when they find the chain gorilla tight.
all part numbers can be found here
i recommend reusing your chain it saves time and is much higher quality than what comes in a cheap timing set, OE primary chains are $55 each. look for tensioners with red thumb tack style pins and not large grenade pins. i would use this set and throw the guides and chains in the trash.
The top tensioners are the most critical ones - if they fail your secondary chains can jump a notch or two resulting in valves hitting the pistons ! In my humble opinion, with such a low mileage car, it's pointless (unless your chains are clattering) going to the expense of taking the front of the engine to pieces to change them and the primary tensioners. The top tensioners are quite straightforward to change - around two hours each side. You can either use the proper lock-down tools (available on Ebay etc) or use the 'cable-tie' method to secure the secondary chain to the exhaust cam if you don't want to but the lock-down kit. Good luck.
The top tensioners are the most critical ones - if they fail your secondary chains can jump a notch or two resulting in valves hitting the pistons ! In my humble opinion, with such a low mileage car, it's pointless (unless your chains are clattering) going to the expense of taking the front of the engine to pieces to change them and the primary tensioners. The top tensioners are quite straightforward to change - around two hours each side. You can either use the proper lock-down tools (available on Ebay etc) or use the 'cable-tie' method to secure the secondary chain to the exhaust cam if you don't want to but the lock-down kit. Good luck.
CaptainQ,
That is the course that I will take. Unless when I get the engine opened up and find obvious degraded chains or primary guides and tensioners. Right now I am concentrating on finding a complete step by step on doing the tensioners using the zip tie method, and locating and obtaining the best quality tensioners for replacement.
Thanks for the info.
Dennis
The top tensioners are the most critical ones - if they fail your secondary chains can jump a notch or two resulting in valves hitting the pistons ! In my humble opinion, with such a low mileage car, it's pointless (unless your chains are clattering) going to the expense of taking the front of the engine to pieces to change them and the primary tensioners.
you will get chased out of here for this common sense opinion.
Moss motors has tensioners for sale. Are these better or not than the Jaguar offers. Please let me know if you have other recommendations.
Thank,
Dennis
I purchased a entire kit including all gaskets , whilst it was labelled as a kit from Japan the crank seal and all x4 guides had to be replaced with new OEM as they were slightly a different shape and didn't sit correctly on the dowl (different ID) .
I have seen a few primary tensioner failures because the check valves in them fails and the blade against the chain starts 'rattling'. (very noisy)
The later all metal units have a ratchet to keep the tensioner blade against the chain without oil pressure needed.
So just trying to make a decision for myself here given the heated topic. Some say it'll take a long time (or never) for the primary to fail, but what I gather from your quote above is that they can fail, but it'll be just a noisy failure rather that a catastrophic one that will get the engine RIP.
Am I correct with my conclusion? In this case, given that changing the primary is above my current skill level and the car has low mileage, I'm leaning towards changing the upper ones myself, and change the primary if it fails while I still own the car ((hopefully will own it for very long), or when I'm comfortable doing it myself. The quotes I got for the job are quite insane.
So just trying to make a decision for myself here given the heated topic. Some say it'll take a long time (or never) for the primary to fail, but what I gather from your quote above is that they can fail, but it'll be just a noisy failure rather that a catastrophic one that will get the engine RIP.
Am I correct with my conclusion? In this case, given that changing the primary is above my current skill level and the car has low mileage, I'm leaning towards changing the upper ones myself, and change the primary if it fails while I still own the car ((hopefully will own it for very long), or when I'm comfortable doing it myself. The quotes I got for the job are quite insane.
Thanks!
the job is a walk in the park but at the end of the day any shop that lets a jaguar drive in the door wants serious money and will scam you with parts markup guaranteed.
i can show you a set of 160k primary guides and tensioners in very good condition, forum drama queens make a big deal out of it. even the audi guys with the timing chain in the back, that job will total the car 2 times over, aren’t as scared as the people on here.
if the stars align and you’re super unlucky your guides will shed enough material to clog the pickup and lower oil pressure. just drop the oil pan every once in a while it takes 20 minutes start to finish
by the time I changed my timing chains it was too late .
Pretty sure with the 4.0 auxerilly components alt/PS/air can all stay on as they're attached only to the block and not the timing case as well .(this job can be done with engine in car)
If you decide to do the job make sure you have a crank puller, the camshaft locking tool , also a orque wrench to torque the bolts on the cams
I would recommend doing this as soon as possible. The timing chains and tensioners on mine were done in 2004 with what I am assuming were the second generation tensioners and last week the engine developed a knocking sound. The mechanic thinks one of the tensioners has failed. I'm hoping the engine isn't shot but I'll find out tomorrow. I did find a complete kit by Eurospare on Partsgeek for about $500 that has all the parts for the primaries and secondaries. I don't know if they are any good but they are listed as Timing Chain Kit -- OEM.
That was the case with my x150 .
Had a nasty rattle on upper timing chain (left bank)
Performed the job (new chains) put it all back together started it and rattle had disappeared however it had disguised the sound of a slight knocking sound .
Pan off , sump off and discovered movement on rod #6 . at this stage I was hoping no damage to crank and I could simply swap out the upper and lower bearing haha no luck crank journal completely scored ..ouch .
So if you get a chance get it on the lift first and have a good listen for rod knock if your lucky you might have caught it in time and yes you can swap out con rod bearings from underneath providing your crankshaft is not damaged.
Also go OEM on guides and tensioner I bought a kit for over 500$ USD and ended up buying OEM guides and crank seals as the quality just wasn't there
Last edited by steve_k_xk; Sep 30, 2021 at 09:30 PM.
timing chain set
