Your problems are spanning more than what the ECU handles but if it is pulling down the CAN bus it could effect the other modules. The fact the OBDII reader gets a link error seems to show a bus problem.
It certainly wouldn't hurt to send the ECU to ASE as it could be the problem and they are known to fail. They are quick and you will have it back in 2-3 days.



Dave

 

Dave,


If it is not the ECU, how do resolve the CAN bus -- the instrument cluster?


Also, my ignition was acting a little funny lately. I would have to jiggle it to stop the chime. Any connection there? If you think it is the ECU, then you recommend ASI? I have their form and can ship it tomorrow, although I would to take it out if it is not broken. I guess this problem has to be worked one step at a time.


As always, thanks.


Madbrad

 

It doesn't sound like a typical ECM failure, but that is a strong possibility with a 97. It's probably worth the small expense to send it to ASI and have it tested.

Automotive Scientific Inc. | Quality Rebuilt Automotive Electronics | Rogersville, TN

 

I'd go and get the ECU checked out. Even if it isn't the source of of the current problem it will likely fail sooner or later anyways.
The Chime problem is likely the switch on the keyhole flap probably needs cleaning.


Dave

 

Just my two cents, but I would have the ECU tested also before spending thousands to have a mechanic eliminate any other cause one at a time. Testing is under 100$ And fast at www.autoecu.com.

A faulty computer may be unable to communicate, therefore show the link error.

 

as posted do the ECU repair. I think yours prob took a MAJOR crap and it has the car acting WAY strange. This one seems the worse but that 97 ECM is a junker.
I wonder if Jaguar Specialties that does the conversion kit for GM LS motors in our cars could chime in, they worked with the BUS system a ton to get it to talk to the GM ECM used in that conversion. They may be able to shed some light on this!?!?!?!?

 

Heard the message loud and clear so the ECM if off to ASI. Just like the battery, I actually hope the ECM is the problem. Plug and play, back in business.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Madbrad

 

As suggested earlier, have you checked your inertia switch?

 

Thanks for the response.


I am not familiar with an inertia switch. Can you tell me more about it?


Thanks.


Madbrad

 

Its on the drivers side of the dash accessible with the door open. Push the rubber cap on it and if it clicks its been tripped. It should only affect the fuel pump though and not stop it from cranking but worth checking. Its supposed to shut off the fuel pump on case of accident.


Dave

 

When I receive my ECU back from ASI, is it plug and play, or do I need to reprogram, perform a hard reset, etc?

Plus, I was wondering if something could have caused my ECU to go bad (that is assuming something is wrong in the first place) that will cause my newly repaired ECU to go bad again.

Just trying to get my plan of action together in anticipation of my (hopefully) repaired ECU.

Thanks.

Madbrad

 

The ECU will be plug and play but it will have to relearn all the fuel trims etc so you will have to drive it a while before the ODBII gives a normal code.

These ECU's had poor quality electrolytic capacitors that could short out and/or leak fluid onto the pc board damaging etches.
The only thing that might damage it especially in this hot weather is if the muffin fan goes bad causing it to possibly overheat.

Otherwise the repaired ECU should last a long time.

Dave

 

The effect of the inertia switch can be different between the model years, but one thing it does is make the can bus ineffective, which results to a inability for the instrument cluster to communicate with the ECU, Transmission, ABS etc (hence the error codes). I had it once my car and in addition of the CAN bus, I also had the lights on.

 

Just do not plug it in without disconnecting the battery first.

 

Thanks. Yes, I disconnected the battery before I removed it and will leave it disconnected until I re-install it.

Also, I checked the inertia switch and it was not tripped.

I also took the time to check the relevant fuses.

So, fingers crossed that it is the ECU.

I should have it back by next Thursday or Friday. Of course, if it bench tests OK, I am back to square 1, but first things first.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and guidance.

Madbrad

 

According to ASI, it is a bad ECU. I shipped it on Friday, June 26 and ASI had it in hand on Monday, June 30. I already paid for the repair and am now waiting for the repair to be completed. Should cure the very strange problem. Fingers crossed.

Madbrad

 

Good luck!!

 

I should receive the refurbished ECU by the end of this week. One question in the meantime. What happened to my car when it died at 55MPH? It seemed to come to an easy, coasting stop. Frankly, I was a little unnerved at the moment. Assuming it was a total ECU failure, did the car slip into neutral, come to a coast while still in drive? Can any damage occur while the car is still moving without power?

Just trying to anticipate things while anxiously awaiting the return of the part.

Thanks!

 

I take it that I may have worn out my welcome with this post. With that said, and as I await my refurbed ECU after three weeks, my battery, which was charged and load tested, is now reading 12.4. Given that nothing has been on the battery for three weeks (negative terminal disconnected), is 12.4 enough to get started once my ECU is returned? Or, should I play it safe and just buy a new battery?

 

Nothing! Just install the ECU and do a hard reset and drive the car. If your battery tested good then use it if it test bad replace it.