I have a 1998 Xk8 with 98k and about a month ago had a few 2-3 when I would get on the gas about halfway from a complete stop and it would do the loud thunk, which I found to be somewhat common for these cars.

Then one day I was at a light, the light turned green and it felt like it started out in 3rd or 4th gear, then it was fine a few minutes later..... this happend 3-4 times over the course of a few weeks, then it was fine for over a month of regular driving.

Now the last three times I have driven it.... it feels like it starts again in 3rd or 4th gear and now the SERVICE ENGINE light is on SOMETIMES and it slowly, slowly gains speed...

I do not notice any leaks underneath, and my obd2 port does not work so I cannot read/see any codes etc. and it also goes into and reverses just fine.

Was thinking of checking the transmission fluid level?

Any ideas on what to try first?

 

Check your bank account........checking the fluid is a good idea, but sounds like more than that. The ZF 5HP24 has known issues with drum failure at about that milage. Some blame a problem with the valve body wearing out, putting too much pressure on them. Others blame the drum design. Maybe it's both. Regardless, sounds like time for professional help, unless you're capable of doing a tranny rebuild.

 

I'm on board with the A-drum failure, get it replaced soon or else the pieces will damage the other internals...and you'll be into it for 10x the repair cost.

 

I had a used unit installed for 2800.00. it came with a 3 yr unlimited mileage warranty. Was it the right thing to do, good question. The tranny supposedly came out of a range rover with 50K on it. The problem still could still be lurking in this tranny as well but no sign yet. I was not sure the a drum was the problem in my unit or not. My clumk was always from a dead stop, or coming to a dead stop. The unit came out at 79K.

Never found out what the cause was with the old unit, I had to core it with the used install.

Good luck with what ever you decide. Just wanted to give you an idea of what a used unit would cost installed.

 

I have looked at every thread with the A Drum and Transmission in the XK8 section, it definitely does sound like it is an A Drum failure. And I do see the parts easy to find on Ebay etc. if that is indeed the problem, so my question is.

What should I look for to find someone relaiable and trustworthy to look at the car?

If it is the A Drum failure, how easy or hard is this to figure out that it is indeed the problem?

What is the labor and cost involved with A Drum replacement?

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Anyone know of anyone in the Chicago area of someone who can help?

Thanks!

 

I took the car around the block today. I start the car, service engine light is on. I put into drive, it feels like it is in 4th gear, then "thunk" and the Gearbox Fault light comes on, once the car gains speed it seems to drive ok.

Again I am thinking it could be the A Drum failure, does this sound like it to any of the experts here?

 

I'm no expert, but that is one of the descriptions often seen for drum failure.

 

I forgot to mention that after start up if I touch the gas it will only go a few miles per hour until I get more on the gas and it lurches forward into gear... and that is when it feels as if it is in 4th gear and then the Gearbox Fault light comes on.

Anyone else have an idea on what this is?

And how do I know when I take it somewhere they are being straight with me on this issue?

If it is the A Drum, what should labor be and total hours for the job?

Thanks!

 

It sounds like the A-Drum from what people have described who have had A-drum failure. However the symptoms of winding-out/slipping (lugging) when you go from park to drive but then being OK after it shifts into second can also be the torque converter. Torque converter issues can also cause random slipping and re-engaging at any speed causing the "thunk". I do not know enough to differentiate one issue from the other.

When I bought my '01 a few months ago I was calling around to "size-up" some service people. From another posting on the Forum I found someone recommended Import Auto Group in South Holland. That's a cruise for you. I talked to "Keith" there about my purchase. In an instant he named me every issue to look out for and quoted me $600 to replace the secondary tensioners (which is pretty reasonable for this area) and $1700 to perform a preventative upgrade of the trans. drum. Haven't used them but they sound like they know what they are talking about. Jac

 

That ballpark estimate above (#9) may have included the valve body too? I am not sure. It wasn't that specific of a discussion since we were only hypothesizing about what my vehicle might need; he just said "upgrade of the trans. drum". It may be worth a call over there and get it from the horses mouth. I am interested in where you can get that labor for $500: that seems like a great price. From what I have seen this trans. is a PIA with the exhaust interference and the location of a few of the upper bolts. I was thinking I would take mine out at some point when I replace the drum but I would probably let someone else do it if they would remove and replace the trans for $500.

 

7 hours is a fair estimate if the gearbox comes out without stuck/broken bolts etc.
You have to decide if you want to renew the filter/fluid or just check/top-up.

I had a customer that 2 other shops wanted to replace the gearbox and nobody lifted the car to see the cooler lines leaking and the fluid level LOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I repaired the leaking cooler line and topped up the fluid. A few hundred dollars and the car was back on the road.

Diagnose and then decide.

bob gauff

 

Does anyone know what a fair price would be for an A Drum swap? ( A Drums sell for $200 ) - $1,500 for labor? Does that seem right?

I have been quoted $1,500 for a transmission swap, figured replaciing just a part in the transmission would be quite a bit cheaper?

( $1,000 for a used transmission and $500 for labor just to clarify )

 

I called a bunch of places today they all say they have to see it before telling me what is wrong with it....

What would you do if you were in my shoes?

Take it to the FREE ESTIMATE places, risk more problems?

Have someone check or change the transmission fluid?

I have found a few guys that would do a used transmission swap for $1,000 out the door, seems like a pretty good price?

Any help, greatly appreciated, have to get this thing fixed this week, thanks!

 

Hopefully others will respond...I will answer this literally: What "I" would do.
A) Be sure its not leaking as motorcarman said
B) For me, I would try doing the fluid change myself and see what happens. If I had to pay someone $300 to do it, I wouldnt in this case.
C) I would let someone qualified check it out and tell me how they differentiate a drum problem from a torque converter issue. If you are more sure it is a trans issue then the $ and length of time you plan to own the car might dictate the path forward. For me, if I was holding onto it, I would be happy with the 100k miles I got and invest in the next 100K. Since I would struggle to spend $1000 on a used trans. that has the same poor "ticking-time-bomb" design as my (possibly) broken one, I would at least add a new Adrum first. Especially since the drums have failed at 50k or less miles from what I have read. $1000 is a cheap price but can they at least swap out the ADrum? My understanding is it takes very little effort to swap the drum on an already removed trans, IE less than an hour). I would add the new drum. If I had more $ I would get the valve body upgraded and if I had even more $ I would get the trans rebuilt with new friction and seals all around along with the drum and valve body.

Then I would hammer the pedal at EVERY stop sign and not worry like I do now!

 

I had the transmission fluid looked at today, it is not leaking and was still a good color to it, so I did not replace it.

I stopped at 4 different places, one said it needed a trans, one said they need to diagnose it for $120, the other said to drop it off and they will look at it for free but even if it was the A Drum they would not just replace it, they would have to rebuild everything else as well, does this make sense?

With someone who knows what they are doing, from start to finish, how long would it take to drop the trans and swap out A Drums? What should the hourly rate or labor cost for something like this?

Any help, much appreciated!

I am looking for the cheapest fix available as I am going to sell this car when it is fixed.

 

I just thought I shoud mention that I had to replaced the ECU and the transmission control module about 3,000 miles ago, I just took out the old one, put in the new one, it started right up with no-reprogramming, could this have anything to do with this?

Also since the seat stopped working yesterday, I checked the fust, it was a blown fuze, is there any fuzes I can try to check? I checked all the small ones on the under the hood, in door panel, and in the trunk, should I try unplugging the transmission control module and plugging back in, or anything else?

Thanks!

 

I have talked to people that say they can swap out a trans for $400-$500 and I have been quoted used transmissions from about $600 and up, so there is the $1,000 figure.

 

What would the last 5 digits of your VIN be?

 

27226

Thanks!

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other members with a-drum failure...who have caught it after it first is diagnosed, just replaced the a-drum, maybe the b-drum also, as they are not deep into the transmission. The drum actually splits at the outer edges, and over repeated 'clunking', those pieces will fall away and get into other parts of the tranny. Shops won't risk just a drum replacement if secondary damage is done, unless you specifically sign off on a no-guarantee of their work. Even though the part is relatively cheap, you're still talking about removal and replacement of the exhaust and transmission, even before the mechanic physically opens the transmission. Yes, you'll be into some hours, no matter what you do.

If you're going to sell it if you can get the shifting fixed, and don't want a solid repair as a positive selling point to a knowledgeable xk shopper, then swap it with a known, working unit and be done with it. At least there will be some guarantee with that service...3 months, 3000 miles, something like that.

No, an ecm or other electronic module wig-out will not give you the mechanical clunking you're hearing.