Troubleshooting loss of mileage info display
#1
10-27-2016, 10:59 AM
Troubleshooting loss of mileage info display
Yesterday I seem to have lost the ability to scroll through the miles or mileage display. I was following driving directions in an unfamiliar area so it was hard to evaluate. At first it seemed that none of the buttons worked (either dashboard or turn signal stalk). After a bit the controls on the dash started working. Though the display is stuck on the last screen selected by the stalk, miles in this case. IOW, when this failied, I had the "B" miles selected. All of the buttons on the dashboard now work.
I found that now the Stalk button is not working. I can switch between Odometer (Miles since new) and A/B Elapsed miles by pressing the Clear button on the dashboard. I never did that before so I wanted to see if this is the way your working display performs.
If you select any of her sub displays with the button on the end of the direction stalk, can you cycle the display between odometer (miles since new) and the sub display that was chosen on the stalk (instant mpg, fuel used, sub odometer) by pressing the clear button repeatedly?
The answer to this will help me trouble shoot the source of the issue. If yes, I'll look for a broken wire on switch stalk. If no I will try a reset. Probably is an open switch but it's a PIA to remove steering wheel.
Thanks, John
I found that now the Stalk button is not working. I can switch between Odometer (Miles since new) and A/B Elapsed miles by pressing the Clear button on the dashboard. I never did that before so I wanted to see if this is the way your working display performs.
If you select any of her sub displays with the button on the end of the direction stalk, can you cycle the display between odometer (miles since new) and the sub display that was chosen on the stalk (instant mpg, fuel used, sub odometer) by pressing the clear button repeatedly?
The answer to this will help me trouble shoot the source of the issue. If yes, I'll look for a broken wire on switch stalk. If no I will try a reset. Probably is an open switch but it's a PIA to remove steering wheel.
Thanks, John
Last edited by Johnken; 10-27-2016 at 01:39 PM. Reason: Can type better on a PC, clear description 4u
#2
10-29-2016, 09:44 AM
#3
10-29-2016, 09:55 AM
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Johnken (10-29-2016)
#4
10-29-2016, 10:24 AM
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I thought CLEAR was only to be able to clear messages, e.g "Check Rear Bulbs", and be able to go back to the mileage, etc.
FWIW, on my car, a quick tap on the end of the stalk rarely works. It seems like I have to press and hold for a short bit (less then a full second, though) for the display to change. I always assumed this is because the button is really polled by a computer, and is only checked every so often. Maybe the coder thought polling this twice a second was enough.
For the repair, can you get away with pulling the upper steering column cover? Hopefully, it can be done with the column adjusted down and out, and not have to mess with the steering wheel, airbag, etc.
Before that, have you considered spraying contact cleaner in there somehow? Just a thought.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
FWIW, on my car, a quick tap on the end of the stalk rarely works. It seems like I have to press and hold for a short bit (less then a full second, though) for the display to change. I always assumed this is because the button is really polled by a computer, and is only checked every so often. Maybe the coder thought polling this twice a second was enough.
For the repair, can you get away with pulling the upper steering column cover? Hopefully, it can be done with the column adjusted down and out, and not have to mess with the steering wheel, airbag, etc.
Before that, have you considered spraying contact cleaner in there somehow? Just a thought.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
The following users liked this post:
Johnken (10-29-2016)
#5
10-29-2016, 10:50 PM
Mike, thanks Mate.
FMertz, Well I've been in there once before. All of a sudden I lost the auto on function. After pricing a new turn signal stalk switch, I knew where I was headed - so I prayed I'd find a easy way to fix it at the connections in behind the steering wheel.
It was intimidating with that air bag ready to blow up in my face (that's how it felt at least), but with MotorCarman's help I realized it was made safe after 5 or so minutes with no battery connection.
Back then my tilt didn't work by the switch so I had to jump the motors separately. That's fixed so this really just becomes a pain in the neck job.
When I got the wheel off and had a view of the wires comming out of the stalk, I could see they all terminate in a single circuit board. Sure enough one of the wires was dangling free. I searched high and low - there is no reliable pin out/wire color diagrams for this circuit board. But with a magnifying glass I could make out the solder spot that had a broken wire sticking up. A quick solder with a needle nose solder gun and all was well.
You know how you can pull the stalk back and get temporary High beams? Then if you pull your finger off fast enough it will flick forward past low and into the high beam position. I made a note to myself that "flicking" from momentary high beam to high beam position probably puts too much stress over time and I should stop that.
Did I? No bloody way. Bet I'm paying for that now. Anyway FMertz I'll be sure to take photos of the wire/circuit board layout. If it is a dislodged wire, that will be great - easy to fix and you will know where to look. If not at least the wires color / position will be available for the next guy.
It will probably be a couple of days but stand by I'll let you know. Just to close the loop, the switch should not be intermittent Fmertz.
John
FMertz, Well I've been in there once before. All of a sudden I lost the auto on function. After pricing a new turn signal stalk switch, I knew where I was headed - so I prayed I'd find a easy way to fix it at the connections in behind the steering wheel.
It was intimidating with that air bag ready to blow up in my face (that's how it felt at least), but with MotorCarman's help I realized it was made safe after 5 or so minutes with no battery connection.
Back then my tilt didn't work by the switch so I had to jump the motors separately. That's fixed so this really just becomes a pain in the neck job.
When I got the wheel off and had a view of the wires comming out of the stalk, I could see they all terminate in a single circuit board. Sure enough one of the wires was dangling free. I searched high and low - there is no reliable pin out/wire color diagrams for this circuit board. But with a magnifying glass I could make out the solder spot that had a broken wire sticking up. A quick solder with a needle nose solder gun and all was well.
You know how you can pull the stalk back and get temporary High beams? Then if you pull your finger off fast enough it will flick forward past low and into the high beam position. I made a note to myself that "flicking" from momentary high beam to high beam position probably puts too much stress over time and I should stop that.
Did I? No bloody way. Bet I'm paying for that now. Anyway FMertz I'll be sure to take photos of the wire/circuit board layout. If it is a dislodged wire, that will be great - easy to fix and you will know where to look. If not at least the wires color / position will be available for the next guy.
It will probably be a couple of days but stand by I'll let you know. Just to close the loop, the switch should not be intermittent Fmertz.
John
