the VVTs will make some noise. Have you visually inspected the tensioners in your ownership?

Is your engine cover on it? Is your bonnet lining still there...it'll dampen some of those normal engine noises. I really think you're focussing on it, making it seem worse than it is. Break something else so you can divert your attention for awhile.

 

I'll see what the tech's find. The wife is going to be gone for a week beginning this week end so I'll get to have the car all week to see what is going on if the techs do not find anything.

Everything under the hood is still intact. engine cover, hood insulation. When I put all new coil packs on last year I replaced the valve cover gaskets because i had seepage in the spark plug holes. The tensioners were in good shape at that time. Since then we have put under 8k in miles on the car. I can look that up to verify the actual mileage.

 

The techs could find nothing wrong, they attribute the engine knocking to cold weather because once the car is at operating temp on restart there is no knocking. They suggest changing the oil and using a Genuine jag filter this time. The Mann that is on there may be letting the oil to drain down. So I'll try this any way. There was no charge from them for this goose chase.

But the klunk is still there. Any one ever cracked open the rear end on this to check the ring and pinion gears. What am I in for? The Klunk is always on accellaration after a slow stop or full stop but not all the time. If i crack it open is anything going to fly out at me? I assume If it is in the rear diff I should be able to see shavings or teeth problems correct?

Can I take the rear end off my mustang and put in in hear? Could I be so lucky that this has a Ford dif?

 

Well i'm of the opinion that the tech's never really gave the car a chance to act up. On a 20 minute drive home from work the klunks was present. When I pulled in the garage the rattle was back as well. I jacked the car in the air so I could get closer to the sound an it is difinately coming from the bell housing area. When I removed the access plate the sound was more prominate. But since the flywheel was moving I could not put the stethescope to get a good listen. The rattle will subside to silent with the increase of rpm's by as little as 250-500 more than idle. But it comes back when you go back to straight idle. So I guess I'm off the the transmission shop to see if they can help me. I'm hoping the klunk and rattle are, cause and effect can't have one without the other.

Just to make things worse the I notice the steering rack now has a runny nose on the drivers side where the lines enter the rack.

12 year old beauty queen. I can't wait for the terrible teens.

I'm laughing to keep from crying.

 

you're going to make yourself crazy...just sayin. Will wait to hear what the tranny shop says.

 

I have been down this road myself with 3 jags and it is not a pleasure. Please let us know what they come up with. My suggestion to you is to stop finding these things to fix and if you think you are going to blame it on the wife I can tell you first hand it does not work.

 

The verdict is in. new transmission is required. While the computer did not throw any codes. During the test drive the shop witnessed the klunk on the first gear splipage and also felt slip in 3rd to 4th gears. He was sure all this is internal and would not know the exact cause until he opened it up. My options are.

1.)Replacement with a used low mileage (under 40K) unit that carries a 36 month unlimited milage warranty. Any failure during that time the complete unit would be replaced free of charge including labor. If the second unit would go out the unit would be replaced free of charge but I would pay labor on the second install. Cost $2800.00

2.) They will rebuild my unit completely but cover it for 24 months or 50k which ever comes first. Cost $2600.00

3.) just repair what is wrong with my unit and 90 days warranty. Cost ?

I have opted for number one.

But for a fee of about $150.00 he would crack mine open to see what is exactly going on in there. I'm really curious about this one. But do not need to know that bad.

This shop has been in this same location for 35 plus years. BBB members for 6 years. No complaints against them. AAA certified, ATSG. No one could recommend a shop to me so I am going with my gut on this one.

I spoke a long time with the Service Manager, and seemed very familiar with this tranny A and B drum issues and implied that he has done several within the last year.

The shop is clean, though small but how big does a good shop need to be.

He was not sure what the rattle was that I heard but said they would check the flywheel to be sure there are no cracks or loose bolts.

He also said they would put in a rear main seal if it has one while he is in there. I'll wait to see on this one. The new used tranny should be hear in a few days.

I guess my only question is was the 5hp24 tranny ever corrected before they moved up to the 6. And when was the last year the 5hp24 in the Jag line up. Is the torque converted considered part of the transmission? I'll need to ask them tomorrow. Might be a good Idea to see about getting a new converter, we'll have to see.

Thanks for all the help thus far.

 

I found this while researching the 5hp24 from a gentleman named Phil concerning the 5hp24 from a range rover. I found the comments on photo number 16 rang true to what I have been calling a" klunk" Phil calls a "bang"

ZF 5HP24 teardown

by RRPhil » Sun Mar 14, 2010 3:55 pm
I recently bought a ZF 5HP24 transmission for a Range Rover, off eBay, for £50. It was listed as being from a 2002 model with 95,000 miles on the clock and the description just said “needs reconditioning”.

It cost me another £53 to get it shipped the 230 miles from the seller to my house.

I took a few photos as I stripped it down in case anyone’s interested:


After draining the fluid I removed the sump pan – magnets had the ‘normal’ amount of debris attached. So far so good


Filter is next – date stamped 2002, so it’s obviously never been changed




Next off is the valve block assembly


Everything looking okay, so far


Park lock mechanism and selector detent and shaft are removed next


Followed by the B, E & F clutch feed pipes and the C & D clutch jump tubes


Moving to the back of the transmission, the rear cover & park lock gear are next


The next job is to slacken off the F clutch drum retaining screws. This drum is the very last part to come out of the transmission but it’s important to slacken the screws off now while the transmission has some weight in it because they’re countersunk and are always stubborn to get out.


Then around to the front end of the transmission to unbolt the bellhousing




Followed by the intermediate casing (which houses the oil pump)


‘Tower 2’ pulls out next – which is basically the A & B clutch assemblies with their respective shafts


The first clue as to what was wrong with the transmission now emerges! The axial needle bearing which separates the B clutch hub from the C clutch drum has worn to the extent that many of the rollers have come out of the bearing cage.


Loose needle rollers trapped in the B clutch hub – all worn to a taper

Having seen exactly the same thing on previous Range Rover transmissions that I’ve rebuilt I know where to look for the cause and sure enough, having separated the A & B clutches, I can see that the O-ring which seals between the B clutch drum & the input shaft has failed


The resulting leakage here prevents the A clutch generating sufficient clamp pressure causing it to slip under load and, as it’s used in gears 1-4, the control system detects the slip and protects the transmission by upshifting all the way up into 5th gear – usually with a bang – each time the vehicle sets off from rest


A & B clutch assembly unassembled


The C clutch & front sun gear drive sleeve then pull out




Followed by the D/E clutch assembly…


…the epicyclic geartrains…


…and then finally the F clutch & 1st gear sprag assembly


So, apart from the failed O-ring & the consequent damage to the axial needle bearing, everything else looks in great condition.

A new bearing costs £7 and I’ll replace the A clutch friction plates which is a further £30. The failed O-ring is part of the overhaul kit (£145) so with new fluid & a new oil filter, plus the £50 I paid for the transmission and the delivery charge we’re looking at a grand total of just less than £400 for a fully reconditioned transmission – not bad.

Phil

 

This is good information. I had the dreaded P1722 transmission failure and it was not a pleasure and was a bit costly. I fought with what direction to go but after talking to my trans guy we elected to rebuild what I had. It failed at 113,000mi and now have 119,800mi on it now and still pleased with the results. I have a little info on my page on my trans failure http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairTransZF5HP24.htm Good Luck!

 

daddyo, if you would have come back for advice on here before making the decision for a used 5hp tranny (which may very well end up with similar damage) I would have recommended the surgery and rebuild, and replace the A drum with a beefed up unit...like this one. Are you sure its not too late?

 

Did you not hear I evidently have a stupid tree with money on it! I seem to have a pension for spending more than I have to,( ie seat leather, different story) but not always.

I guess the warranty got me more than anything. Next time I'll know better. But maybe this will help someone else from making a more informed choice.

They are installing the tranny as we speak. Not a pretty site see her laid open like this.

I just hope they do not screw up my $1600.00 seats.

You have to laugh to keep from crying sometimes.

I

 

What about the EGR pipe? It's on the right back side. Comes off the exhaust manifold and connects to Throttle body. See if you can tell if it's cracked and emitting an exhaust ticking noise.

Whoopps posted this before I got to your last thread....shows you though how a noise can seem to come from one place yet it's from a totally different area!

Sorry man!

 

Well good news and bad news. First the good! The new used tranny is wonderful. No noises at all.

The bad, I got it home about 11:30 and really got to inspecting things and its going back tomorrow, Monday, First they broke the bell housing where if goes over a locating stud on the motor. Second they broke off one exhaust stud on the passenger side and left it, they only tightened three exhaust studs on the drivers side, they left a hose clamp loose on the recovery tank at the top.
they got oil on the leather seats (already cleaned that off). I really do not think they used fender covers when working on the car from above. They also broke a big chunk off the drivers side engine cover. I need to look at it on the rack when I take it back to check the bottom side out.

I should have not taken the car at all, but stupid me had alot on the plate Saturday and was in a hurry.

I just hope we will have no problems on Monday. I did call the shop on Saturday, they close at noon, and left a message about all of these issues.

The bell housing is the real concern because the only way for them to fix it is to drain it all, pull the whole thing out and put a new housing on, and put it back in and hope they do not break the new one off. Everything else can be fixed from above with very little effort. How important is the corner missing from the outer stud housing on the bell housing? I could make it weather tight with some permatex, I know they should step up to the plate and take ownership for what they let me drive home. I'm just glad I looked. We'll see what Monday brings.
[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Mark/Desktop/IMG_1940.JPG[/IMG]

 

Only You!

 

bring trash bags with you for your seats too

I would also be a little worried about that stud...on the exhaust manifold I assume. Who knows what that could do with a few warm/cool cycles to expand and contract...woops, corner opens up and you won't pass inspection next year.

 

Well the shop stepped up to the plate. I have an appointment with a muffler shop to have the cats removed and have the stud replaced. Cost goes back to the transmission shop. Buy a new engine cover and they will reimburse me the cost.

I called Coventry West about covers and they have plenty for the XJ but none for the XK. They do have different part numbers. Does anyone know what the difference is between the two might be?

As far as the broken spot on the housing We decided to let it ride right now but it was agreed that since I have the warranty they will pull it at any time if it becomes an issue. But looking at my old tranny and where the piece is missing it should never become an issue. It comes down to if I'm okay with it that is all that matters.

Now on to fixing the valve cover leak that is dripping on the rack, that lead me to believe the rack was letting go.

Thanks to all. Chasing noises paid off. The transmission guy told me today that when he was driving it, the old transmission did go into limp mode while he was test driving it.

Dam'it Jim, I'm telling you I heard something!!!!!

 

Call Dan at Nalley Jag, I checked into one a few weeks ago, and it was going to be about $75.