Hey guys

Just as a follow up to my ABS repair...

As I mentioned before, the top and bottom Torx bolts facing the front of the car were previously stripped. The tight space didn't allow me to get a drill or any other tools to remove the bolt. I tried to cut a slot into the head of the bolt so I could unscrew it but the screwdriver would not catch. Finally I had to grind the heads off with a Dremmel.

Finally got the ABS unit out, carefully hacksawed it open and sure enough, one of the little pins shown in other posts seemed like it had a break in it. Man, they are tiny! Globed some solder on it, crossed my fingers, and put everything together.

I HAVEN'T HAD MY ABS/TRAC DASH LIGHT COME ON SINCE!!

Thanks again, Aode06

Nick

 

Its what I do

 

The light came back...

 

I had one repair that didn't hold up because I didn't use enough heat. The problem you have now is that you can't tell if it's the pins or something else.
Finding a shop or individual that can read the codes will save a lot of guess work.

 

Fear not, the ABS light is one of the most common problems which is why I got a reader to catch the ABS codes (the cheapy ELM readers don't). I'd gladly lend it to you except you're over 3000 miles away
I myself found there was more than one fault occurring, so in your case you've fixed one but now you're seeing the other dirty/dud sensor/dirty connector/int. wiring etc.
As mentioned, you really need to read those codes

 

multiplecats, which code reader do you have? Many members of the forum would probably want to buy a reader with that capability.

It might even be a worthwhile addition to the Sticky to list the ones that do so.

 

I used the British Diagnostics system via fleabay:-
Jaguar Land Rover Diagnostics equipment | British Diagnostics

It cost about $140 and looks like a Mongoose clone.
For my ABS woes it worked OK but may not be for everyone.
I did a writeup elsewhere on the forum but here it is again:-

----------------------------------------------------------
Well it turned up within 48hrs and the package contained a Mongoose clone cable of fair quality plus two handwritten DVD-Ws.
Cutting a long story short and after a lot of b*ing about here's what I found:-

Install instructions are on a PDF file and are brief but clear.
Set plenty of time aside to install the package - copying and de-archiving the files took me the best part of 30-40 minutes.
The SDD software requires a virtual Windows XP OS provided by the included VMplayer. This software needs a large amount of RAM, my 1GB laptop couldn't hack it and I had to use a desktop with >2GB instead. I'm not sure, but a fast processor probably helps too.
One gotcha is that when the virtual XP is running it may not see the Mongoose's USB presence, however there is a VMplayer menu option to force it to see it.
The SDD software eventually runs and then it's up to you to work out how to drive it - there is no operational info. with the package. After a lot of playing I've only now managed to read DTC codes and reset all the modules.
There is plenty I still don't understand.

In summary:-

You need a reasonable spec. laptop with >2GB RAM. (I'll have to buy a new one if I'm going to use this package a lot)
The SDD package seems to work but can be temperamental sometimes, although in all fairness the British Diagnostics guy does have a helpline (which I haven't used - yet)
If you've got plenty of time to play with it and get familiar with the menus etc. it might be a good buy. Plug and play it is most definitely not.
On the other hand if you're in a hurry and want get in quick with those codes and tweaks then the AutoEnginuity might be better.
------------------------------------------------------------

I still crave the AutoEnginuity + Jaguar module, mainly because they also do a Ford module which would suit my Focus daily ride.
Some may consider it over the top and expensive - I'm still trying to convince myself!

 

I bought the same package when I was in the U.K. in September - as multiple cats states plug and play it certainly aint - luckily my son is studying electronic engineering so my helpline was pretty good(albeit expensive :0))


I bought it so that I could read all codes not just generics and it certainly does that. I'm sure in the right hands it's extremely powerful - I just haven't had to dig any deeper than codes and TPS voltages yet.

 

Multiplecats, I'll gladly ship it back to you...😇

Nick

 

As written by aode 06 above, these faults appear to be very close to my current problems, stability control yellow light came on next I noted a couple of cylinders dropped out, engine warning light now on.
Idling up and down, runs on 8 when over 2500rpm, fast idle when stopped and have to hold brake firm. Noticeable relay click from gear selector panel
when in neutral and depressing brake???
Questions are does a failure of the Stability Control drop out any cylinders or interrupt spark??
Does the relay click indicate a problem with the soldered posts in the ABS Module?? 1997 XK8, vin #008358, Thanks Guys and Hopefully we will have a Jag Tech who is familiar with my descriptions and can
offer up some advice.....

 

It would have been a good idea to open a new thread, as you have multiple issues. Perhaps one of the mods can do so.

P1224 indicates a throttle body problem, while P1799 is a CAN bus connection to the abs module.

Start by checking the battery to be sure you have at least 12.45 V. Then disconnect the battery, but be sure you have the radio code. You can get that from a dealer if you don't have it. Then remove and clean all the connections to the throttle body and abs module. Reassemble and start again. Do the codes return?
There is also the possibility that the ECM is failing, but it's more likely that the throttle body and abs module are in need of repair.

 

THANKS for posting this info.

 

its not uncommon at all to have to go back and re do your solder. I had to , and I solder well. I recommend the ebay repair service. Its under 100 bucks