Dorman/Conduct-Tite 20 pcs. 16-14 gauge 1/4 in. blue female quick disconnect terminal (85452) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com

Dorman/Conduct-Tite 16-14 gauge 1/4 in. blue male quick disconnect terminal (85453) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com

RadioShack® 3/16" Insulated Quick Disconnects (16-Pack) - RadioShack.com

1/4" connectors for car harness 3/16" for resistor from Newark.

 

I finished my install and it went well. I used clips that I pressed on the wires and resistor. They were very tight so i think I am ok. I will check to see if they loosen. I also used heat resistant velcro strips to mount the assembly to the metal housing. Looks good and will be easy to remove if necessary.

It added 5 seconds to the close time and 3 seconds to the open time with the engine off.

 

Mark,

Just beautiful. A no-cut installation ala test_point, plus a secure mechanical hold for the resistor. (I did not know there was such a thing as heat-resistant velcro.)

May I put this in the next (overdue) revision to the paper describing the system (with attribution, of course)?

 

Sure you can use my information in your next revision. The High Heat Velcro came from RadioShack as did the Heat shrink tubing by the way. (It is more like plastic fasteners than velcro like you get with toll tags for your windshield)

 

When I installed the resister, I drilled a few holes in the sheet metal frame and mounted the resister there. This should help dissipate the heat build up.

 

Got a photo? Just an FYI ... the resistor power rating of 100 watts was selected to permit not mounting on a heat sink. But as they say across the river in Brooklyn, "it coudin hoit".

 

Velcro would be fine, but the no-cost, easier way I used is to re-use the existing sheetmetal screw in the pump mounting rack. I just drilled out one of the 4 mounting holes on the aluminum resistor base (one closest to that screw location) and put the screw back through it. It only had to be a little larger (3/16" as I recall). Gives a solid mount and as Dennis notes, the metal-to-metal connection doesn't hurt with a little extra heat dissipation.

 

This finally made it to the top of the "to-do" pile.

Nothing of a must-know nature for guys who have already installed a system. For anyone thinking about doing so, there is a more detailed component list and improved installation instructions. Special thanks to Test_point for serving as editor, catching several things that needed attention.

Update 03/30/11: Posted a revision, issue 2.1, on account of two errors:
- somehow I left HLGeorge off of the thank-you credits (sorry).
- fixed a dumb grammatical error.

The paper can be downloaded from www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar02.htm

 

+1 on resistor installation



parts used from mouser for a no-cut connection:
180908 Tyco Electronics / AMP Headers & Wire Housings

60249-2 Tyco Electronics / AMP Terminals

42565-2 Tyco Electronics / AMP Terminals

180907 Tyco Electronics / AMP Headers & Wire Housings

My observations are as follows. With engine off, battery fully charged. The initial "pull" when opening and final "push" when closing are the hardest part and the system gets confused. For instance when closing the top a latch would try to close before the top makes it to the latch and the system gets out of sequence. This is correctable if I give it a little assistance with a "hand job". But I get "latch fail"message. With engine on the system works as intended. You could hear pump working differently as compared to before. With no resistor, engine off the system works every time. One other thing is that resistor gets burning hot after a couple of cycles. I understand it is design to dissipate heat, but still you could burn your fingers if not careful. This is on 1997 XK8. My hoses are slightly different than what I've seen here:

hoping they are little better as compared to what was used thereafter. Need to give it some thoughts, good thing with a no-cut is that you could take it out any time, no harm done. The way I see it it is my options are resistor in / engine on or resistor out / engine off.

 

Reko,

Yup, those hard parts are the latch operations. The resistor can't effect sequencing (when the "ready to latch" position sensor trips, the "close latch" sequence begins) but if there's not enough pressure being created, things will stop moving w/o getting a latch closure.

If the latch won't close engine-off, using engine-on is OK. Your particular mechanism may just need a little more pressure than some others.

Resistor value?

The solenoids on top of the pump, the resistor, and the pump motor will get hot with repeated operations in succession.

 

Dennis,
Resistor is rated 0.2ohm. My digital multimeter is not accurate enough to measure the resistance, but it is around that value. So you are saying I am better off with resistor / engine on as compared with no resistor / engine off from the pressure standpoint?

 

Gotcha; thanks.

Pressure: yes, better off for sure.
- Engine-off, no resistor: pump voltage ~ 12 volts, pressure ~ 1450 PSI.
- Engine-on, with resistor: pump voltage ~ 9 volts, pressure ~ 1100 PSI.

 

I guess resistor is staying then. Thank you. What about the hoses I have, they look different from what I've seen posted here.

 

On this topic, I'm a blank slate. Sorry.

Gus is the resident expert. He has web pages on this topic, so I'm sure he, or someone who knows the URLs, will see this and direct you.

 

If your hoses are marked 363 Parker Polyflex they are the ones that have been known to fail. Use this link Body

 

It says "power packer" on the houses, did not see any numbering.

 

If you use the link to my page you will see the hose markings. I had to go to your profile to identify that your car is a 97 and in that case you may have the first set of hoses installed and to date we have not seen any failures. However, you need to keep in mind that the pump puts out 1600psi and failures have been identified with the rams, roof latch as well as the 363 hoses. All this information is on my page. When you get a chance please have your car information added to your signature, it will help us help you!

 

Thanks Gus, I updated my signature. Most likely I will take Dennis' advise and go with resistor / engine on. The only other suspect is a weak battery, but it was on battery tender all winter.

 

reco19,

Great addition to the conversion but you have dramatically increased the cost of the resistor solution. With the 'proper' connectors the total cost is now up 20% to about $12.

 

Ain't it the truth.

Buying from Tyco often involves unforseen costs. Which may explain why the ex-CEO, Dennis Kozlowski, is doing 8 to 25 somewhere in upstate NY. Couldn't happen to a nicer guy.