I still get ABS trac errors, I've gotten them turning the ignition on, and more frequently when starting driving. Sometimes it's ABS, sometimes it's ABS TRAC, sometimes it blinks on and off, sometimes it stays on.

I also get some lurching, less after I changed tranny fluid and filter, but it's not gone.

What I've tried

1. The connector pins/connector to the ABS module looks fine, and I've cleaned the contacts to no avail.
2. I opened the ABS box and all the soldering was good.
3. I cleaned all the wheel speed sensors.
4. I measured the wheel speed sensor resistances and they all check out.

What have you done that fixed your problems? I'm guessing ABS module "rebuilds" would be the main thing, but maybe there are cheaper fixes that have worked for people

 

Check the battery.

 

I tried all the DIY suggestions but a module rebuild is what resolved my issue.

 

+1 on checking the battery.

If it comes on before you move, it is not the sensors. The sensor wiring could be frayed or broken however. Also check the connector on the ABS unit. Make sure it is not loose and spray some cleaner in there while it is off.

 

One more check worth doing is to repeat the front sensor resistance tests while exercising the steering lock to lock. If there is marginal contact in one of the connectors, or a broken wire in one of the wiring sections that lead to the sensors, an intermittent fault can pop up. This exact thing (connector needed cleaning and re-seating) happened on my car.

If this is the culprit, you'll see a blip in the resistance reading at some point as you exercise the steering. An analog meter shows this best.

Good luck.

 

+1
On top of the abs and traction not available warnings I also kept seeing brake fluid low message almost constantly despite it being filled to specs. So I proceeded with the battery, wheel sensor brushing/cleaning, even got my brake fluid reservoir replaced thinking that could take care of the RED warning...but at the end, it took replacing the ABS Module to rule them out all ...
Hope you get your dash back to green in no time!

 

$30+ shipping an ABS UPGRADE! seems like a no-brainer.. What's the last word on driving without the module though?

Volvo Jaguar ABS Brake Module Repair Rebuild Service S70 V70 C70 850 XJ8 XK8 | eBay

 

No ABS or stability control...just like the cars we used to drive. If you get into a skid, pump the brakes yourself.

 

As I have reported elsewhere, I had a persistent left wheel sensor circuit error. Sending the module out for repair did nothing. Replacing it solved the problem.

 

So did you replace the module, sensor or harness? How did you find the error?

 

I bought a used module, which of course had a bad solder connection to the pump. But that was good, as the seller refunded my money and I fixed it myself.
I nailed the error in the original module with help from my Autoenginuity software. Switching the front cables and sensors did not move the error, and resistance readings were identical at the abs plug. I would erase the code C1155, but it would appear again on rescan.

 

Took my XK to local dealer for a scan and the diagnosis is the sensor cables on both front wheels. Tech informed me that it's common for wire to fracture due to movement while steering so going to play around with the ohmmeter next week and maybe try splicing in some new wire if I can locate a break. Dealer is looking for the parts and a price, no news yet!

Anyone have a P/N for the sensor wires? Dealer just called and gave me P/N C2C34640 for wheels speed sensor kit $250 Canadian per side! Splicing is sounding so much better (i.e. free!)

Will update if/when I have news good or bad!

 

I determined my intermittent error message was caused by the zip ties that secured the cables to the control arms. To solve it I simply cut them off and reattached new zip ties with more slack added between the ties and towards the sensor. I did this about 3k miles ago and haven't had an error message since. Here is the original thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eedback-91446/

 

I just turn it off, wait a few minutes and start it back up. Just like a computer. It has happened about five or six times in the four years that I have had the car. So far, do good. Yes, I know that is not what I am supposed to do, but, as long as it works that is what I will do.

 

Just tried this but no luck! Thanks for the idea though.

The DSC Fault comes on with steering at full left lock, so I think I'll be looking some more at the cables and measure the resistance.

 

1998 Vanden Plas 45450 miles.
I went through all of the currently listed fixes for these fault lights.
First cleaned the wheel sensors. Checked and cleaned all connections.
Installed 950 cold Cranking amp battery to replace old 750 amp battery.
Did a hard reset. Still got the fault light.
So I removed the ABS Control Module and was going to open the case and check the solder joints. However I could not open it because it was sealed so well. I as doing some research and found a company in California that has a kit that they install with upgraded parts to renew the ABS unit with a 1 year warranty. Found it on EBay by searching "ABS Control Module" for my Jaguar. I do not know if I can give the name here but If it is not censored here is a link https://shop.modulerepairpro.com/contactus.sc
They do most makes and models. Mine cost a little over $60 to ship to them, get the repair and have them ship it back. It plugged right in and the fault lights did not come back on. Junkyard replacement units were $250 with a 30 day warranty so this was a good rescource.

 

Even though the solder connections on the ABS mother board look or even measure good vibration and heat can cause an open circuit, that was my problem. I removed the cover soldered the two pins for the plug and have not had a problem since.

 

Had to take a hacksaw to mine. Be very, very careful with this. Re-soldered the two posts, and re-sealed the box and all is good.

 

Ive driven my new to me car one day and I have also had a low coolant warning and abs lite. both turned off after shutting down and restarting. David.

 

I revisited this idea after I discovered I get the DSC fault at full left lock, jacked up car and took wheel off to have a look what was going on at full left lock. The sensor wire did not have enough slack and was tugging at the connection to the sensor, I think it was enough to cause a temporary loss of connection that triggers the fault.

Cut zip ties, added slack and retied wires to upper control arm.

Happy to report the fault does not occur at full left lock any more!

Thanks again Marc for the idea, should be a "Try this First" for the DSC Fault!