I'm going to laser cut some rear alignment shims. I need to know the outside diameter and the inside diameter. I dont need to know the bolt hole diameter yet. I will make these out of stainless steal. I just dont want to pull mine out just to measure them. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Outer about 115.30mm, inner about 69.96mm, hope this helps (don't know the error margin of the measurment though ..)

 

Sounds precise enough to me!

 

Thank you very much. If it works out I will make these available to everyone on the forum. The price..........FREE, you pay the shipping. I will make them with in reason. I wont cut out 50pcs for free but acouple here and there will be no problem. Also any thickness you want. Thank again.

 

Cut out some shims today. I will be working on the hole locations next. I should be able to get some done next week. The size's I can cut will be

.048 - 1.219mm
.063 - 1.600mm
.074 - 1.879mm
.125 - 3.175mm
.187 - 4.749mm
.250 - 6.350mm

The one's that are in the picture are .074,.125,.187

Most Jaguar's come with the 4mm which is .157

Only one shim can be used in your final set up. You can not double them up. ONLY ONE SHIM PER SIDE.

 

Why only one per side? I've got two (4mm from factory+3.5mm from me) on both sides to resolve camber issues.

 

The shim is used to lock the differential stub shaft to the axle shaft. Think of the stub shaft as being the male side and the axle shaft is also the male side. They need to be locked together, kind of like being hubcentric. If you use 2 shims they dont lock together (shim to shim). By doing this you will put the load on the 4 bolts and if they dont break you might get a slight vibration and take out the differential bearings. It is a big no no to run more than one shim. Use the thickness of the shims to get the right set up and pull it apart and measure the full shim pack and get one shim of the same thickness. This is the correct way to do it.

 

For your set up you would need .312(7.924mm). This would be one per side. The extra .016(.4mm) will not be noticed at all.

 

I understand your argument, but if the shims can't lock together, how can the axle/diff flanges lock to the shims?

 

There is a lip coming out on the stub shaft (male). There is a lip coming out on the axle shaft (male). The shim having the hole in the middle (female) locks the two axles together, center to center. This would be the hubcentric part.

 

I see, so the factory shim serves to lock the two flanges together, and take the stress off the bolts and distribute it evenly across the entire flange/shim assembly?

 

When I set up these cars, I make sure to have a full tank of gas. At 8 lbs per gallon from empty to full you will gain about .3 deg neg. I also add the full drivers weight. When I do a set up, I set all 4 corners at .4 deg neg.

 

To answer your question...Yes, kind of. The hole in the middle of the shim is to center the 2 axle shafts.

 

You're right, I misread your post. The shim eliminates potential wobbling between the prop shaft and the diff shaft, which would stress the bolts.

 

According to this, the 2 lips added together must be "Shorter" than the thickness of the thinnest available shim?

 

That is correct. That shim would be 4mm. That is what most of them come with from the factory.

 

The factory installed shim is 4mm, and the thinnest I could find was 3.5mm, so they would have to be shorter than either of those two, yes. Jag also doesn't reccomend more than 7.5mm per side on the studs.

Looks like I'll be getting two 7.5's soon lol...

 

I can see if I have any .312 (7.924mm). I will let you know what I come up with tomarrow.

 

How do you configure the front suspension to arrive at .4 negative camber? That seems impossible on an XK8 without some kind of structural change. Mine's barely at -1.30 now, after camber bolts, new upper shock mounts, and new upper/lower control arm bushings. I think I just won the booby prize!

 

Thanks, appreciate it!