I, too, suffer from having large appendages & therefore struggle with the *$%£"* fuel fittings on the bottom of the tank.....So the last time, faced with a full tank of fuel, as well as all the other challenges....I pulled the rear seatback & 'package shelf' as we called it in the old days...drilled a 6 inch hole with a hole saw centered over the evap plate, and withdrew the cover, pumps, etc. up thru the interior...

Advantages: No rear subframe removal
No tank removal
No trunk wiring to disconnect & replace
No grease or upside down work

Disadvantages: Replacing cutout panel, if you want...The trunk environment is only separated from the interoir by the paper of the speaker cone, anyway...plus cabin air exhaust ducts into trunk on either side -

Total job time from entering car to pumps in hand = 2 hours.

 

Can anyone recommend a fuel pump(s) to use on a 2001 xkr?
Thanks
RC
xj13

 

On the quick disconnects. If you get the release tool around each line, i use a long screw driver to push it into the release postion and pull the line loose, repeat for line 2.
On the fuel pumps, wlabro makes great hi performance fuel pumps i use on both the nissan and suburban for fuel injection. Like the 255lph's and theres made as direct replacements at $100 per pump. Google and ebay for a supplier theyre all over

 

Thanks Brutal. I'll search 'em out.
I had a novel approach with the disconnect tool.
Afraid to loose them on install, I tied a fine wire to act at a leash so I could retrieve it if dropped. It gave me the confidence to use bold manipulation tactics! Then I used a flat wooden paint stirring stick to push as to not damage the tool.
Perhaps I am over thinking all this.
anyway thanks for all your experience and help.
RC
XJ13

 

see youTube on this; I'm letting a shop do it!

 

I bought the fuel line removal tool from Rockauto for $10.
You can see the "white C" in the photos.
Get your hands up there, slide it over the line, and I used a fat scree driver (flat) to push it into position.
Then just tug the line out.
I was sweating this part of the job, but it turned out to be quite easy.
Easy on a lift, doing it on jack stands is probably a nightmare.
The driver side line had about 3 ounces of gas in it, and it almost got me in the face!

Be sure to look for burned electrical connections in the tank. That's what I found.

 

Do you need to buy the Jaguar pumps or can you buy 2 Ford Ranger JLM20529 pump for an XKR?

One of mine is dead.

Mike

 

The Jaguar factory fuel pump fitters checking in for another shift:



I bet Grumpy gets the job of doing the connectors.

Graham

 

As written by YYKI bought two Bosch pumps for about $180.00 last year, no problems. You should replace both just so you don't have to do it down the line.

 

i am needing one for my 99 XK8 - Can you tell me the model or direct to where you purchased them? I dont think i need 2 but need one pretty bad.

Thanks

 

If you remove the panel in the trunk (I am learning the lingo), to expose the tank, you will find a sticker which will tell you whether you have one or two pumps.

 

I bought my Bosch pumps on ebay they come with the pump filter. I think they cost $79 ea.

 

I just finished replacing the fuel pump in my 1999 XK8, this morning.

I bought the pump on Ebay. Here is the same kit:


88 94 Mercury Topaz L4 140 2 3L Electric Fuel Pump Brand New | eBay

These pumps fit a lot of cars. The issue with the XK8 is the diameter of the pump is oversize for the "holder". The pump won't seat on the rubber seal that goes around the top of the pump. I paid $20 delivered for my pump!

The pump meets some specification, but not for our holder.

I had to bore mine out and got the top to seal okay. I also bent the metal out, then mounted the pump in the holder and rebent the holder back to hold the pump securely. So don't put the filter bag on till the pump is secure in it's holder, so you can rebend the bottom metal feet on the holder. I also reused the rubber support on the bottom of the pump. My pump also burned up the wires. A common problem on many different cars and trucks. Don't know why it didn't blow up the car!

This whole fuel pump replacement is a bear the first time you do it. See Rev's video. I made fuel line removal tools similar to his. The auto parts store stuff didn't work. I have a friend with a lift. Doing it on your back is fine if you are young! I'm 70, and my helper was 67!

Watch the wiring harness on the left side of the tank, the flange will cut it.

The access to the fuel lines under the car is an opening of 6"x 1 1/2". My fuel pump was original, dated 1999.

Good luck,

Don

 

Could you fill me in? Should I fill the tank when down to 1/2 full? Does the gas in the tank cool the pump?

Thank you,

Jack

 

The gas flowing through the pump is sufficient to cool it, even when the level is low. Running it to empty is what can cause a problem.

 

Did Jaguar ever upgrade to a better-quality fuel pump by the end of the XK8 production run? I'm wondering if our 2006 XK8 runs the same fuel pump that the 1996 XK8 does....

 

Cars built begiining 03 MY have a much more complicated pump system and I see reports of repeated failure of replaced pumps on this forum.

 

When they switched to the 4.2 liter engine in 2003 they also started using a different pump. I know of very few pump failures, so it seems they are somewhat more reliable than the old ones. Unfortunately the new pump is anywhere from $550 to $850, depending on where you look, so when it goes bad it's pricey. The new pump also contains a plastic check-valve and several of us have had problems with the check-valve. When it goes bad, the car still runs but it takes anywhere from 5 to 15 seconds of cranking to get the engine to start after the car sits overnight. The $5 check-valve is integral with the pump, and it's not available as a separate part even though it's mounted in the plastic housing that surrounds the actual pump. If you want to replace the check-valve you have to buy a whole new pump.

I've got a new idea on how to fix the check-valve problem without even having to remove the tank, so if there's anyone in the North Carolina or Virginia area who is having the long crank time problem and who is willing to try an experiment, send me a PM.

 

on the returnless system 4.2l the fuel is cooler since it doesnt run up to hot engine and back. It also is pulse width driven so it doesnt run as hot since it doesnt run full speed unless needed. On the other hand the 4.0suffers from all the opposite of the afformentioned. Pumps are in tank for several reasons. No fuel to lift, cooler running, quieter, and smaller packaging. Ever see quality external pumps. They have to have bigger pumps and motors to pull the fuel from the tank, usually cooling fins too, and very noisy. Now maybe just a coincidence, but most of the pump that i get that failed, have 1/3 or less of fuel(thank god, less to deal with) and talking to the owners over the years they admit to not refueling to almost empty. That fuel in the tanks on return systems gets pretty damn hot already and we all know that liquid transferes heat or cold much better than air. Otherwise we would just have all air cooled engines. That being said, run a pump dry or close to where it cavitates pulling up air with the fuel and it will die quickly because the fuel is also a lubricant

 

I've been refueling all of my vehicles by the quarter-tank-remaining mark for decades. I've told my wife hundreds of times to follow the same rule and explained the reasons why. However, she continues to run her vehicle until the amber fuel light comes on at least a couple of time per month. I hate it....