ok my xk8 had a rattling timing chain. I decided to do it myself. Long story short i ****ed up (excuse my french i mean its an expensive engine) the timing on the driver side and it was two teeth off. Probably due to i only had one cam locker when i bought the 300 dollar tool set on ebay. so now the engine is trashed. the shop i took it to replaced the motor and now it is throwing every single code possible. the temperature gauge does not move either. the radio works and the windows roll up and down but nothing works the car will not move far because it has no throttle response. it runs but very rough and has NO THROTTLE RESPONSE. Please help me out. I've spent way too much money on this car as it is and it is becoming a nightmare i haven't been able to drive it for over 6 months. I switched from four wheels to two and very glad i did. My gsxr600 is so reliable but i don't like riding it in the rain because it has ram air and sucks water right into the airbox. Please please help me out. is the computer fried? the battery also keeps dying. it is a brand new battery.

 

Doesn't the shop you took it to guarantee their work?

 

How about a little info on your model year, 8/R and also on the engine used to replace the original. Engine compatibility is the first question.

Too late now but how did you get the timing off enough to trash the engine or had it bent valves prior to tensioner replacement efforts?

 

yes he does he's a pretty honest guy but it has been up there for almost 2 months now. It's making me depressed because I'm pretty much in love with it. why I asked is the guy is stumped he has even had someone else look at it and they don't have a clue what the problem could be. they have double checked everything. and now he's telling me the computer is bad, but it was fine when I first took it there and he just doesn't understand how it could go bad but I read they are very finicky when the battery dies and gets recharged. and we both have no clue why the battery keeps dying.

 

I forgot to thank you all for the replies. it is a 2001 xk8 and the engine they replaced it with is a 2002. I had the timing off two teeth and when I took it up there they compression tested it after they put it back on time and the driver side had only 40 or 50 on each cylinder. like I said the tool kit I bought only came with one cam locker. so I think when I was putting the exhaust and cam shaft sprockets back on the cam probably turned. they also checked the tensioners and everything before they put the new used engine in. Everything was fine. I went up there today and started it and it idles funky up and down the whole time till it goes into gear. It's throwing every thing even says transmission fault and I paid 4 grand at the dealership to replace the tcm!!!!

 

Ok, let's break it down with just the relevant facts:

1. Replaced engine
2. Upon attempting to start, it runs very rough and throws alot of codes.
3. There SEEM to be electronic anomolies as well, but they may not be connected.

I would (in this exact order)
1. Check compression and report back
2. Check and RECHECK every electrical plug and vacuum line
3. Make sure the intake and airbox are connected and do not have any leaks.
4. Replace battery with a brand new one
5. Check bulkhead connector

It may be something very simple that was overlooked- if you do not fully seat a connector (throttle body for instance) it will wreak havoc.

I also doubt that something "new" electrical has happened, more likely something is not put on correctly.

 

Clear the OBDII codes first, run the car a few minutes and get a fresh list of all the Pxxxx codes it is setting. That is the only way we can even begin to figure this out.

 

Thanks for reporting back sorry I wasn't able to reply I had to help someone wire their tail light for their bike. Ok the compression was tested on the new engine it had 150 down the line on both banks. I checked all the lines when I was up there and everything is connected but I wanted to add this, when they replaced the engine the connectors for the throttle body were damaged. they rewired them. it was throwing a code for the pedal position sensor. the throttle body will not open. when I give the car gas the throttle cable pulls but nothing happens. I know these are electronic and communicate with the computer then allow the butterfly to open. I will try to replace the battery when I go back up there because I got it from autozone and I haven't really had an issue with returning a battery. thanks for the replies and I will check back in Wednesday because I have school allllll day tomorrow. I will be willing to bet you are right white xkr I think that the "rewiring" of the petal position sensor had something to do with it. I was also reading about the connectors themselves as some are metallic and others are gold plated. I asked the shop and they didn't think that had anything to do with it but what I read online somewhere else it said differently.

 

Hmm. Sounds like you may have a crossed wire there somewhere. If it was ME I would buy an engine harness off of ebay and replace it instead of a repair- it just looks better and isn't THAT expensive.

 

ok guys well I replaced the battery with a new one from autozone, no difference. here is a list of the codes it through. I really think the computer is fried the temperature gauge doesn't even move. it threw over 20 codes. I also inspected the trunks I noticed a vaccum line that splits into two other lines. Is this for the convertible top? it comes out of the bottom near the battery, there is also two plugs one small one and a big one that are in the wiring loom back in the same area that aren't connected to anything but I didn't see any place for them to be connected to.
P0102
P0112
P0117
P0123
P0197
P0223
P0358
P1123
P1223
P1646
P1647
P0117
P0123
P0197
P0223
P0358
P1000
P1123
P1223
P1646
P1647

 

Is this after an initial code clear?

 

yes I let the car run for about 5-7 minutes then rechecked the codes. :[

 

The codes seem to be indicating a whole bunch of parts are not connected, or not connected properly: MAFS, IATS, coolant temperature, oil temperature. throttle body, pedal position....

IF the wiirng and connectors have been checked and double checked, check the fuses in the small fusebox next to ECU before implicating the ECU.

 

Thanks white xkr ok I'll bring some tools up there to look at it. is the ecu under the hood on the passenger side behind all the fuses? what exactly would I need to take that out and inspect it? just torque screws?

 

Yes and yes.

But also make sure they connected the sensors, like the MAFS near the airbox in the intake air pipe and the coolant temperature sensor on the coolant pipe in front of the engine...both are easy to see.

 

Ok im on my phone now so sorry if words are mispelled. Ok the maf and coolant temperature sensor are plugged in. When it was running I unhooked the maf and the engine died so I think its ok there.

 

Well if you unplugged the MAFS and then checked for codes....you do realize that is going set a bunch of codes....

 

Yes I know I checked the codes before I messed with the wires all the fuses look ok. Took the ecu out and it looks like its been rebuilt by denso cuz it has a warranty sticker on it. Of course I disconnected the battery first. The mechanic thought it was in theft mode but I know damn well that wouldnt throw codes. Keep talkin to me whitexkr im trying. These people have already been paid and its a shame I have to come up here and work on my own car.

 

There is a big engine harness bulkhead connector on the firewall. This was probably sitting exposed to the atmosphere for who knows how long on the used engine. Perhaps separate it and check for corrosion or bent contacts.

 

Buy a used harness. You really need to eliminate any issues with the rewiring job they did.