Hello gents.

I've seen similar posts before but they all included some sort of codes associated with the issue. Btw, my car is 1999 with cca 125k miles on it.

Mk, so the problems have begun recently after I moved to Flagstaff, AZ (elevation cca 8k ft.). First, my car exhibited slooooow starts with lots of turning. Yesterday finally no start w/click in P, and no start with click/turning in N. All this without warning messages. So I called me a cab this morning, and for fun decided to turn my key in P... the car turned instead of clicking and it'd almost start (pbly a bit flooded), but that's when the cabbie arrived....

Please, note that the car battery is fairly new, so is the air filter, and I also opened the fuel pressure valve and got a squirt on depress. I am away from home so not sure whether I get to start him or not, but this revolting behavior is very concerning .

Thank you all in advance for your valuable feedback!
Best,
Danny.

 

Even though you said the battery is fairly new, I still like that as the culprit or the charging system not keeping the battery charged good. Check your connections good when you get home and then check the battery. Simply and easy things to start with.

 

You said you had no warnng messages, but did you actually read the OBDII codes?

 

+1 on reading the codes.

Also, although you're confident the battery is good, have you checked the main harness junction box in the Luggage Compartment?



This one (arrowed in blue) is on my 2005 but yours will be similar. Loose connections are a known fault.

Graham

 

Thanks Graham had the similar problem had no power any were accept on the oil and temp warning light. I would touch the positive cable and power was restored. I traced it back to the junction box. Problem solved. Thanks for posting. Jim

 

Thanks all, gents, for the prompt response. I got home very late today (partially due to reintroducing myself to a city transportation network ). WhiteXKR, I am actually looking to purchase one (Innova 3130) from eBay for that matter.

Graham, wonderful reminder about the electrical gremlins. I am going to attempt resetting the battery tomorrow as well. Just to clarify the reset procedure, I am supposed to slip off the negative terminal wire while ignition in off state, and touch it to positive (while positive still engaged) with ignition on? I remember WhiteXKR answering this question in some other post.

Thanks all of you for your time and support, gents. Hopefully will know more tomorrow late afternoon MST
D.

 

Danny,

Here's the link to the 'hard reset' procedure in the FAQ's:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...connect-74146/

Regardless of whether this helps with the non-start issue, it will reset the fuel trims etc to default values. As you are running at altitude, this should speed up the 'learning' procedure for the engine to run smoothly in the rarer air.

Graham

 

well, sadly my favorite toy and also daily driver continues to be broken...

I proceeded with the electrical inspection later this afternoon. I went over the main harness, popped off the plastic cover and moved things around. The leads actually looked pretty healthy. Next I printed out the fuse box diagram from JTIS, and inspected one fuse box after another in clockwise direction starting in the trunk. I pulled/pushed on majority of fuses with particular diligence on the cubical (large brown ones). This is no doubt a silly question, but how does one know if the large fuse is blown ? All looks well except I smelled very strong "cooked electronics" odor in the area of Engine Compartment Fuse box relays...

Now, after the fuses checked out I decided to take on the air intake, MAF sensor, breather & part breather hose (very clean btw), and intake. I felt really good about turning a key once I put it back together...and it actually kept turning while the gear box was in P...once...twice......with battery holding well. I had to give her a little brake after couple more spins, and so I just sit there. About ten minutes later, I turned the key again and all I got was a loud click...both in Park or Neutral. The frustration got the best of me, and I decided to erase her memory despite of the risk of locking my radio unit. I followed the reset method described in a link provided by Gragam above. All went swell. The only adjustments required were the windows and clock. Radio did not required inputting factory code after all.

Finally, I turned the key for the last time, unfortunately with disappointing outcome...No start, but I got turning again in both P and N without any indication of firing. Gee, so I am now buying some code reader to hopefully figure it out. JagX couldn't pick worse time to breakdown on me...
Hope to be back in a reasonable time with codes. Thanks all of you for all the good tips!

 

At this point you will have a mess of codes and several of them are not a real problem. However, document them then clear them and post the codes so we can see what you have. My next suggestion would be to recharge the battery to full capacity, it would be best to have the battery tested. Question, when you are starting the car and the engine is spinning is the engine spinning freely with or without compression? Is the security light blinking? Do you have another key that can be used to start? I have a little procedure that has helped many in starting the car and I will attach a link for it.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I hope this helps.

 

Gus, many thanks for the no start troubleshooting tutorial.

I followed what I could accomplish with my limited set of skills/tools, but no luck.

I have finally received the Innova 3100 scanner earlier today (est. on Fri, delivered on Mon =D). Please, take a look at the screenshot with codes below (P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit). I am also attaching my fuel pressure reading and sparkplug condition pics. Considering the code id being crankshaft sensor, my state of "worried" is currently on code red. .




All that being said, is it possible for a crankshaft sensor to go bad? I should probably mention that my dash shows restricted performance warning and I get no cranking at all when attempting to start. This condition arose during my weekend check up on fuses/wires/connectors...
I am really grateful for your time and feedback, gents!

 

P0335 is, as you've already discovered with the Innova, related to the CKPS which sends a signal to the ECM for spark timing.

The Jaguar DTC List gives a bit more detail on possible causes of P0335:



It comes down to the CKPS harness or the sensor itself. I've never known cleaning to bring one back from the dead!

Graham

 

JagX is back up running and turning heads on the Flagstaff roads . Thank you all for an invaluable feedback and guidance that helped me to narrow down on the specific problem.

Little bit of a detail about the resurrection . Many great tips helped me to eliminate the failure of fuel system, bad fuses or relays and/or battery. Later in the week, I received the scanner and retrieved a bad crankshaft sensor code.
I was shocked to find the connector falling into pieces upon the disconnect of allegedly bad sensor. Below are the pics of the bad connector, and also the crankshaft sensor which surprisingly was covered in oil along with some metallic residue due to its magnetic nature. The connector seemed patched together during some prior handling and disintegrated into two inner parts (red seal and plastic socket) on disconnect. New direct replacement pig tail with proper connector appears to be available at Partsgeek website! should anyone care...



With that being said, I somehow managed to put the thing together and install new sensor (with lots of electric tape in place for structural support ). After reinstalling the battery that was recharged and tested @ Autozone, the car started swiftly after turning the key.

Apart from the purring car, do you guys have any leads on where could the oil deposited on the sensor come from or whether it is normal?
Best,
D.

 

Danny,

Good to hear you're back on the road.

I've added 'RESOLVED' to your thread title to help anyone searching for answers to this problem in future. Thanks for posting the useful advice on sourcing the replacement pig tail with proper connector.

Could the oil have come from a current or previously leaking cam cover seal?

Graham

 

Thanks for closing the thread, Graham. Btw I looked into that leak a bit, and it appears to be more insidious than "just" a cam cover seal. I found thread by member "ejjbee" whose picture of a leaking plug within the flywheel housing is featured below...and that's also the source of my leak I suppose after examining the oily pattern. Gee, that requires dropping a tranny and all ...anyhow, thanks all for support. I will start a new thread on the aforementioned leak if need be.
Best,
Danny.