Hello All. Continued bows of appreciation.

@Whitehat - the new engine has 37k the old,,, the one in the car now, has 198k.

@cat_as_trophy - I'd like to know a little bit more about resetting adaptions. I can google it but if there is a more straightforward set of ideas,,, I'd love to hear them.

@michaelh - 1... I hadn't noticed you were in Jersey! Cool! - I hear you loud and clear on the idea of getting in there and replacing all that needs replacing. I also cringe at the 'list' with this car (cost wise) and amount of work considering my time and the availability of feasible workspace.... BUT, I know you are right so I'm warming up to the idea. lol,,, making a list BEYOND engine swap,,, sheeeesh. I didn't even know this car had an electric water pump... Q: are the pumps known for failing and,,, are they really that difficult to get to, say if you take the throttle body, breather, reservoir and such out - when trying to get to it,,, with engine IN? Also, subframe mounts make perfect sense but requires a bunch of dealings with the entire suspension front end. But still yes,,, I guess i need to do it.

A- DRUM --- I saw one video of a guy doing the A-Drum... Looked a little beyond my level of belief in myself, expertise wise. Ill Link the video and if you don't mind, maybe someone can tell me if THIS is actually representative of how involved it is or is this guy kind disorganized?

 

I watched 2 minutes of this video and this is not a video you should use. He was trying to release the bottom cup, it might be called something else, with just a screwdriver. I don't know if he figured it out but the cup needs to be depressed by using a press or my first time I did it I used 2 C clamps.

How soon before you do the A drum. I can post a proceedure for you but it might take me a week or so since I have been working oht of town recently. I do agree it is a good time to do the upgrade while you have the transmission out.

 

Hi again JJJ. This is a software reset that clears all parameters like shift points from prior use . . . in this case, in the hands of others. It is done only after box is in car, so just note at present and rather than google, use search tools here on this forum. Use search term such as "reset adaptions for . . ." but add model type for your 5spd box.

Best wishes,

Ken

 

my bad, misread the post. this switch is a no-brainer, do it.

as for the a-drum, the valve body TSB applies to earlier versions of the box. in these cases it does lighten the load on a marginal design. the design is still compromised in an otherwise very reliable transmission. when i did this job for a friend it took me 45 minutes not rushing. PM me and I will refer you to someone who can do it for you if you bring him the trans. good guy, very reasonable.

 

Holy Smokes Whitehat...!

Are you saying that if I take the trans away form the engine before I put it in, pop it in my trunk (I guess, lol) and bring it, with part, this friend will hook it up? And, the youtube video above, in my previous post, is that the "job"?

 

yes, he is a technician; this is what he does. you have to speak with him to get a price. additionally you should have him order the replacement as it is a redesigned part at a very good price from his supplier. next the youtube job is probably longer as i am assuming that they are replacing all of the clutch packs since it is post failure. you save money on parts and some time since you are not replacing them. this is how it went with my xk8 and the other person's car that i happened to fix. i hate watching most youtube how to's and the way that this one starts tells me i will not like it so you have to be your own judge.

 

You know Jersey?

See this thread started by Dandy Andy on the heater/coolant/Air conditioning water pump (pick one) and decide. It links to a how-to by Race Diagnostics:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1329664

I just listed the jobs that I've either done or read about that are a pain for access with the motor/trans in situ: besides, it's easy for me to sit here and think of ways to spend your money

I'd hate to see you put it all together and then find a $20 inaccesible part had let go.

Good luck,
Mike

 

Ya, the video above goes a bit further than you need to - you can remove the bellhousing complete with the pump (he separated them) and then you can pull the a-drum out with the other drum as a "whole" piece and then separate after it's out. 3 steps and you are working with the A-drum, not the ten or so he went through.

 

Two comments:

1. As I recall, the cut off for Nikasil was in 2000, as I have a later 2000 xk8 and checked before I bought it was after the cutoff.

2. Check your emissions laws. At least in California, I think engine swaps are normally only allowed to a same or newer model year part. You don't want to swap and then find that out.

Good luck!

 

Thanks Ophitoxaemia... O Barer of Bad News...

It seems as though my possible replacement engine IS Nikasil-lined,,, based on the dates that I find...

I FOUND THIS:
"The first steel-lined AJ-V8 came off the production line In the year 2000 on August 18th at 10.43am hence the engine number will read:
00/08/18****"

The engine number on the swap is - 00/01/08****

This is not good news? I'm wondering what people think..?

 

I think all the suggestions are great and follow them if you can afford it. You will not regret that. Just one question. Where was the new engine stored. Looking at the pictures there seems to be some weather contamination. Consider looking at anything that might have been effected by being out in the weather.

Above all things. HAVE FUN!

 

Thanks EZ... Right now my main concern(s) is/are the new developments described in my last post... Interested in members thoughts on the described subject.

 

Certainly not an expert, but wouldn't redoing the tensioners negate the nikasil concern?

 

I am using a nikasil lined motor in my convertible- no issues.

 

Don't lose any sleep over the Nikasil, many of us have lived with these engines for years, just don't start it up and move it ten feet and cut it off. Should have no effect on most, as the gas we get is not like the old stuff with sulfa content. I'm still cautious, just not overly so.
Wish I was there to see the whole thing, good luck and keep us informed.

Wayne

 

Thanks Guys! Shweeeew!

I have a little ways to go before I'm actually ready to tear things down and get in there, and yes - I've been hovering over my messages until I got a answer on the Nikasil lined cylinders... I'm sure more answers, responses, thoughts and suggestions will come. I welcome that BTW... In the mean time.

So questions, now that I'm comfortable asking, believing I can and should proceed,,,, thankfully!
Wondering if THIS IS THE CORRECT PART for the A-Drum replacement?

Do I need a A-Drum with clutches, like pictured here OR, can I save a buck or two and purchase drum without clutches and re-use old stuff? Which direction makes most sense? There are definitely A-Drum options with more included in the "kit" ranging in cost.

More, about seals and rings? I do see kits with four (4) "O" rings but I do not see kit with rings that look like they would fit the "shaft" of the drum. It looks like there is a space on the shaft itself for two rings and I seem to remember the gentleman in the video realizing he need to replace them. Once "in there" can you think of any other parts (specific to tranny work) that I will need to complete the job?

(link) As Far as the valve... Is this the correct one or is there an new and improved version? I'll be returning to ask how to replace the thing for sure. Transmission work is 100% new to me. First time for everything.

LOL,,, I hate needing so much and offering so little. As my experience increases,,, I look forward to offering more to the forum in general.

I appreciate the help and guidance.

Jay

 

No, the tensioners should be checked replaced in any case but the Nikasil is a separate issue.

Not so fast Jay, I agree there is no need to run away from a Nikasil motor that is in good shape, but, do we know that is the case?

 

That's a good point and question Norri!

As soon as I have access to the engine again, most likely this Mon and Tues - my intention is to get 12volts to the starter, lube up valves, cams and moving parts of course, and spin the engine. Slowly and carefully at first.. Then, one by one, plugs in all but one cylinder at a time,,, the cylinder I'm checking,,, and check compression in each...

Are there any cautions and red flags that come up with my intended procedure/test AND, are there better, more telling, thorough and comprehensive ways of doing a test for Nikasil wear and failure?

Appreciate the thoughtfulness.

 

Hmmm JJJ, do you intend to do this compression testing with the replacement engine in or out of car? I respect your idea to oil up all the cylinders prior to cranking this engine of unknown internal condition, but don't understand the value of testing compressions while also replacing spark plugs. Only by doing compression tests with all plugs out will you get readings that you can reliably check to spec.

For mine, I would withdraw all plugs and inject only very light oil into each cylinder, then crank briefly. Leave for half an hour, then repeat the process of oiling and cranking. Then leave until following day, by which time any excess oil will have drained to sump, but bores will be adequately lubricated. Now use a screw-in compression gauge, and with all spark plugs still removed, run a full series of compression tests and record all readings.

Then, and only if any or all readings appear below spec, repeat compression test for those cylinders after injecting oil as before into cylinder immediately before testing. If there is an immediate jump to spec, it indicates a bore wear or piston ring issue in that cylinder. If the reading remains below spec, it points more to leakage at the valve / valve seat area.

Best wishes,

Ken

 

Hello Cat...

It will def be with the engine out of the car. I'd hate to do all of the work to realize I have a bum engine.

I'd always understood that the best way to check compression (correct me) was with all things (other than cylinder in question which would be hooked to the meter) intact...? ie with all plugs IN all cylinders and other sealed areas intact as well, right down to the the oil fill cap and dipstick in place...? I don't intend to "change" the plugs per se, just to go thru them one by one, taking them in and out as I go along - testing for compression.

Your order of operations I am VERY grateful for, and will work that way . Just wondering about the w/ plugs in or out.

Thank you!