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FS[NorthEast]: Parting 1995 XJS convertible

 
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  #1  
Old 11-11-2016, 05:51 PM
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Default Parting 1995 XJS convertible

Parting a 1995 XJS. Please message me with needs. Interior is already sold.

Blue convertible top is recent and new. Was put on after flood when owner thought car was repairable.

Engine and transmission appear to be OK.



 
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Old 11-14-2016, 03:54 PM
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I would love to have the hood, but am 650 miles south of you.
 
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:45 AM
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Hood is damaged.
 
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:35 AM
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Will the wheels fit on an XJ8?
If so, I might be interested in them.
I can pick them up if they fit and are in decent shape.
Please respond.
 
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:24 PM
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[QUOTE=Rpach10115;1571381]Will the wheels fit on an XJ8?
If so, I might be interested in them.

yes, they fit. 4 of the 5 are in excellent shape.
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:39 AM
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Still many parts availble. Head light sold, 1 tail lamp sold. Front bumber sold. Interiror sold.

Convertible top is new and in perfect condition. Spring is coming!
 
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:33 PM
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Hi, icsamerica, I am looking for a working adjustable clock (analogue?) for a 95 xjs 2+2, mine says jaguar on it, would you happen to have one.
 
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Old 01-14-2017, 08:20 AM
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Wheel size on this car?
This car came with 5 different stock wheel sizes.
What size wheels are on this car, and are they available?
 
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Old 01-15-2017, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by gmacaz
Hi, icsamerica, I am looking for a working adjustable clock (analogue?) for a 95 xjs 2+2, mine says jaguar on it, would you happen to have one.
I have one if U R still interested.
 
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Old 01-24-2017, 07:58 PM
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16 inch wheels, No clock
 
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by superchargedtr6
I would love to have the hood, but am 650 miles south of you.
I am in Virginia just off of I-95 and know where there are a couple of hoods for sale. Best one is on an '89 coupe, champagne colored. The blue '89 coupe had an engine fire so the paint is damaged but its probably cheaper. Either way I am guessing you'd want to do a complete strip and re-paint.

PM me if you want more information.
 
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:09 PM
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What is the overall length not counting the end caps of the body side molding piece on the front fender. I'm interested in one of them if it is in good shape, i.e. not dented or pitted. Thanks.

Is it a V-12 or 6? I might be interested in the cruise control mechanism if I can confirm it is compatible/transferable to my '87. What about the A/Compressor?
 
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:34 PM
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Is this what you want, web site climped images but you can get the idea. Any idea how to remove safely.
 
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Old 01-31-2017, 01:10 PM
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Yes, that is it exactly.


To remove you take a small flat head screw driver and pry out one end of the rubber insert molding. Harder to do when it is cold so may want to wait for a warm day.


The piece is held in place by either pop rivets or Phillips head screws. If screws no problem. If pop rivets you'll need a power drill with a small bit to fit inside the rivet hole to drill it out. A bit for wood will not be strong enough. Just drill out the rivet to pop the head off the back side and the piece will be free.


I kind of like the leaping kitty emblems below the body molding. If they are just glued on I'd be interested in them. Some nylon fishing line pulled behind the emblem will separate the piece from the glue holding it to the body unless there are some kind of retaining posts or rivets. popping the emblem off the black rubber molding may be necessary to check that option.
 
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Old 02-08-2017, 07:06 PM
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Hi again,

I stupidly broke one of the end caps to the body side molding. I need the "flat" end one like is on the front fender piece closest to the door. There is an identical one on the rear piece again closest to the door. It appears that your door piece uses rounded or beveled end caps similar to the front and rear end caps at the outer most points.

These come off by prying the rubber molding out of the track and then either removing the screw or the pop rivet depending on how it is fastened to the body. If it is pop riveted all you do is take a hand drill with a bit that is a little smaller than the diameter of the rivet head and drill it until it pops free. The cap then slides out of the molding track. If you had one or two extras that would be great. I feel ridiculous for breaking one of mine. Thanks. Brad
 
 

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