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S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 1999 - 2008

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  #1  
Old 01-22-2010, 10:09 AM
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Default IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ

Difficulty level: moderate
Tools needed: flat screw driver, 8mm socket (1/4" drive helps), 13mm socket, T20 torx bit, small hammer, clean rags
Optional tools: 8mm wrench, can of carb cleaner, awl (small pointy instrument), nail set, shop vac
Time: 2 hours
Parts: Dealer part number located bottom of this post or aftermarkets available from MotorcarsLTD: http://www.motorcarsltd.com/C2S40669.html



This procedure was done on a 2005 3.0

First start off start with removing wiper arms:
Disconnect wiper washer supply lines, being very carefull not to snap off nipples!
Remove wiper arm 13mm (socket) nut covers, loosen nuts to top of stud. Grab ahold of wiper arm closest to nut as possible, while pulling up on arm strike the nut with small hammer (arm assembly should "pop" on third hit). DO NOT remove nut then strike stud this will lead to possible stud damage! If you get this far everything else is down hill. If not have someone else do the replacement.


Using "optional" nail set, push down on center push/pull pin on front cowl (8 pieces). Using flat screw driver or finger nails pull up on washer. Remove 1 at a time! (To reinstall these, push the pin from the underside up so it protrudes the top of its washer).

Remove (7) rear cowl T20 screw covers and screws. You are now able to slide cowl cover away from work area. The wiper washer supply line is still connected to underneath cowl, it has alot of play to just set over front of engine bay.

Optional use vacuum to suck up what appears to be paper fiber insulation under cowl and rear of engine bay. Mine was deteriorated bad (now I have none). Good time to clean wiper arm drain as well (drivers side US)

Remove (4) crossbar 13mm (socket) bolts, set bar aside


Now theres a clear but very tight view of the IMT tuner valves. Disconnect wire harness using thumb pressure from upper tuning valve. Using 8mm socket (or wrench) remove (2) tuning valve bolts, wiggle valve out of intake manifold. Tricky part now is to find the right spot where the valve can be wiggled out of the engine bay. Lower IMT tuning valve same removal process. There may be as much as a 1/3 cup of oil that drains out of the lower port! Using clean rags and cleaner, clean the lower IMT port. Replace yellow IMT O-Ring with new GREEN O-Ring.


Install, reverse procedure. When going this route you cannot properly torque IMT valve bolts. They should be snug but not over tightened! Also when reinstalling cowl, the awl comes in handy to match up the T20 screws.

Words of advise: On the underside of cowl there are thin black washers that hold the T20 screws, they are very easily moved or can fall out, use caution if you do not want to loose them. Also note the fins on the underneath cowl these are the washer fluid main line holders (see photo).

If your vehicle is close to needing spark plugs, then you should consider IMT Replacement "long route" which would require the intake manifold to be removed.
*Also now is a good time to replace the cabin/pollen air filter or at least vacuum it out!


Attached Thumbnails
IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ-tools-parts-jpg   IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ-imt-o-ring-001-jpg   IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ-imt-o-ring-003-jpg   IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ-imt-o-ring-004-jpg   IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ-imt-o-ring-006-jpg  

IMT O-Ring replacement (short route) w/pics FAQ-imt-o-ring-part-number-jpg  
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Last edited by joycesjag; 11-22-2011 at 05:32 AM. Reason: install pics into body of text
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  #2  
Old 01-22-2010, 10:11 AM
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picture of an awl
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:38 AM
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Great write-up, Rick.

The only additional tip I would add is that there is a rubber-like flexible shield surrounding the area where the pollen filter sits, essentially to protect the pollen filter from engine dirt and grime. We didn't remove this shield, but we found that if we loosened a couple of the nuts that hold it in place over in the area where the IMT valves are, we could move this shield a few inches out of the way and that really opened up some additional working room for me with my huge hands. If we hadn't loosened those shield nuts, I could not have gotten my hands far enough down into the area behind the intake manifold to re-install the lower IMT valve....

I found our pollen filter to be pretty clean, so I just used my shop vac to clean it up a bit more....
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:46 AM
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Excellent point Jon, for those who have larger hands, I did not have to loosen those.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:41 PM
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thanks for putting up all the extra information after the original post was lost Rick. I appreciate it. I'll FAQ it for the s-type owners.
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:52 PM
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I just did my today
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:13 PM
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2 added point, to remove wiper arms safely after removing the nuts. I just grab the arm and move it up and down to pop it off the spindle. That way you dont risk damaging the thread. And if you remove the cross brace, be carefull taking bolts out they tend to rust and snap off. If you get them out successfully. lube the bolts so they need seize for the next person(who might be yoiu again) its no fun to drill and tap out the bolts
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:30 AM
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Brutal makes a good point about wiper arm removal. I cross-threaded my factory drivers side wiper arm nut just tapping slightly but persistently on it with a hammer in an effort to pop the arm off its spindle. The metal in those factory nuts is soft and they will cross-thread if you even look at them wrong. A replacement 13 mm stainless nut and matching stainless washer were about 75 cents total at Ace Hardware, and they're much harder and stronger than the soft factory nuts. I should have bought a set of two while I was there and just gone ahead and replaced the passenger side wiper arm nut as well....

Once you have the nut off, it's better to just move the wiper arm up and down as Brutal says. Get after it pretty good and soon you'll feel it release and then you can pop it off....

My 2005 four cross-brace bolts showed no rust at all - they looked brand new. Maybe this is a flaw just on the earlier years....
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:33 AM
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Brutal,

Can you confirm that only the 2008 S-Types were factory-built with the green-colored IMT O-rings and therefore if you have a 2007-or-earlier S-Type, you're eventually going to be pulling the yellow O-rings and installing the green ones?
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon89 View Post
My 2005 four cross-brace bolts showed no rust at all - they looked brand new. Maybe this is a flaw just on the earlier years....
no you just dont live in a salty area or have enough time. The end brace bolts are exposed into the wheel arch area so they get hit with water off the tires. Earlier braces had 7 bolts with a tie in at the base of the windshield
couldnt say what color 08 orings are, I dont recall doing one....yet
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:34 AM
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Apart from the new 'o'-rings being green, do they just have a greater cross section compared to the previous ones?
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:44 AM
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The new-style green IMT O-rings are noticeably thicker and rounder than the factory-installed yellow ones. Also, the green color is actually a sealant that takes effect once you get those IMT valves seated back into their chambers and heat up the engine....

As common as this problem is there's no question that sooner or later, any owner with the original yellow factory IMT O-rings will develop leaks and must replace them. If you can do this yourself, the cost of the repair is less than $5. My two new O-rings cost $2.15 plus tax each....
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:09 PM
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:24 PM
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Jon,

It seems like a lot of work to get to them that way. It was a lot easier to take the intake manifold off.

Did you just do it this way to save having to possibly replace the main manifold gaskets?

I can reach them on my '02 while the manifold is still on, but getting the valves out... that seems like it would be a bear. Maybe my arms are too fat!
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:10 AM
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I believe the short route is actually faster. It certainly is far cheaper, too. I went the short route because I saw no need to change the 6 upper intake gaskets or 6 spark plugs with only 41,000 miles on the car. Total cost to me was $4.63 for both new O-rings....
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:19 AM
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In all actuality "short" route verses "long" route, time is about the same, I know this because I did both routes.
Jon is correct on the money savings! I believe the upper intake gaskets added about $70.00 to the long route.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:17 AM
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Has anyone got the part number for the new 'green' o-rings ?

I'm taking the inlet manifold off to replace the plugs and coils so may aswell replace the o-rings when I'm on.

I wouldn't be surprised if my dealer has to order some in so don't want them to get the wrong ones. Hopefully they have a new part number?

I've had a search but cannot find anything.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:41 AM
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C2s 40669
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:14 PM
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The Jaguar parts guys at your dealership know the IMT O-ring part number by heart. They sell that many of them. I'll bet they get 'em two dozen or more at a time. Brutal, as always, is correct with the part number....
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon89 View Post
The Jaguar parts guys at your dealership know the IMT O-ring part number by heart. They sell that many of them. I'll bet they get 'em two dozen or more at a time. Brutal, as always, is correct with the part number....
My closest dealer only had one coil in stock last week so I'm not holding my breath.

Many thanks Brutal.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:12 PM
 
 
 
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