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Dual Coolant Control Valve

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Old 07-25-2009, 05:15 PM
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Default Dual Coolant Control Valve

My girlfriends 2005 4.2L s-type is having a problem were the driver side blows only hot air, but the passenger side works correctly. after searching on this forum it seems most likely to be the DCCV, and seems to be a fairly common problem. I saw people making references to another car that has this valve, but noone ever seemed to know what car it is. I called up jaguar today and they wanted close to $350 for the part so i am trying to find another place to buy this valve as i doubt i can find another s-type in a junkyard around here. Here is the information i found so far, it seems that either a 2002 ford thunderbird or a 2000-2002 lincoln ls. ill let you guys know if i find one that works and the cost.

Originally Posted by alldata
Article No.
03-3-4
02/17/03
CLIMATE CONTROL - LACK OF COOLING FROM
DRIVER AND/OR PASSENGER SIDE VENT -
VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH DUAL AUTOMATIC
TEMPERATURE CONTROL (DATC) ONLY
FORD:
2002 THUNDERBIRD
LINCOLN:
2000-2002 LS
Article 00-15-3 is being republished in its entirety to update the models covered and to update the Basic Causal Part number.
ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit a lack of A/C cooling from either the driver or passenger side vents or an extreme temperature difference between the driver and passenger side on vehicles with DATC (Dual Automatic Temperature Control): This may be caused by a faulty DCCV (Dual Coolant Control Valve), a faulty DATC control assembly, or faulty electrical circuits.
ACTION
Inspect and service as necessary, electrical circuits, DCCV and DATC control assembly. Refer to the following Service Procedure to aid in diagnosis and repair.





Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 00-15-3
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
030304A Diagnosis (Includes Time 0.5 Hr.
To Perform All Diagnosis
Mentioned In This Article
Can Be Claimed With Or
Without Part Replacement)
3.0L/3.9L Engine
030304B Additional Time To 1.7 Hrs.
Replace Dual Coolant
Control Valve - 3.0L
Engine
030304B Additional Time To 2.0 Hrs.
Replace Dual Coolant
Control Valve - 3.9L
Engine
030304C Additional Time To 0.6 Hr.
Replace Dual Automatic
Temperature Control
Assembly: 3.0L/3.9L
Engine
030304D Additional Time To Repair 0.4 Hr.
Wire - 3.0L/3.9L Engine
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
18495 42
OASIS CODES: 208000, 208200, 208999





Disclaimer
Here is the test procedure for the thunderbird to see if the dccv is functioning properly
Originally Posted by alldata
1.Start engine and ensure it is at full operating temperature. Set DATC to 90°F (32°C), with blower on high and recirculation and panel modes selected. Allow vehicle to remain in this mode for 5 minutes minimum.
2.Set DATC to 60°F (15°C), with blower on high and recirculation and panel modes selected. Allow vehicle to remain in this mode for 5 minutes minimum.
3.Measure the output temperature at the registers. Depending on local current atmospheric conditions, the coldest reading may be approximately 45°F (7°C).

NOTE WITH THE DATC TEMPERATURE SET THE SAME IN BOTH ZONES, SOME LEVEL OF TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE FROM DRIVER SIDE TO PASSENGER SIDE SHOULD BE CONSIDERED NORMAL A DIFFERENCE OF UP TO 10°F (6°C) MAY BE OBSERVED DEPENDING ON AMBIENT TEMPERATURE, HUMIDITY LEVEL AND IN-VEHICLE TEMPERATURE.

 
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Old 07-26-2009, 03:48 PM
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Before you go replacing parts it would be wise to read previous posts on this and other forums. Failure of the wiring loom results in the valve(s) defaulting to open (hot) due to a lack of a control voltage to close the valve(s).
The dodgy wiring loom is a common fault, usually in the area of the front bumper.

You will need to check what voltages you are getting down at the DCCV.
 
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:55 PM
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So far i have found that jaguar wants $337 lincoln wants $250, and ford wants $267

Ill look into the threads on testing the voltage. So far the only thread on faulty wiring to the dccv had a test that did not involve testing voltage, it just had a procedure, and since the passenger side temp goes up and down i did not think that was the problem.
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:05 AM
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Default dccv

can someone take pictures of where the dccv looks like in the engine bay.
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Sideo
So far i have found that jaguar wants $337 lincoln wants $250, and ford wants $267

Ill look into the threads on testing the voltage. So far the only thread on faulty wiring to the dccv had a test that did not involve testing voltage, it just had a procedure, and since the passenger side temp goes up and down i did not think that was the problem.
Are you sure they are all the same?
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:14 AM
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Is that relevant?
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:27 AM
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im not "sure" that the ford/lincoln one is the same as the jaguar one. i am sure the lincoln and ford ones are the same as they have the same part number. I have heard people make refrences to using the valve out out of the lincoln. ill call jaguar and get the part number off of their valve and we can compare it.
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by stevenngo
can someone take pictures of where the dccv looks like in the engine bay.
as soon as i can find my goddamn camera ill go take a picture. had to give my gf a ride to work and now im awake with nothing to do 3 hours before work.
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:17 AM
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here is a picture of the valve, judging by all the orange stuff on mine i think its not working.

you cannot really see it from the engine bay, its way under the car you have to take the skidplate off to get to it, but if you are wondering were it is, its basically directly under the brake block. here
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:04 PM
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Default dccv

thanks for the pictures. is it bad to use another type of coolant, even if you drain out the old stuff? so it doesnt mix
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:59 PM
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Some of them can combine to form a gel. Check you don't fall for that.
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jagv8
Is that relevant?
I thought so, if they are not the same is there any point comparing prices?
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 04:13 PM
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Beats me.
 
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenngo
thanks for the pictures. is it bad to use another type of coolant, even if you drain out the old stuff? so it doesnt mix
Originally Posted by AllData
Coolant


Type WSS M97B44-D
Capacity 10.1 L (10.7 qts)
Caution:
Coolant WSS M97B44-D Part No. JLM 20972 is the Organic Acid Technology (CAT) type and must not be mixed with other types of coolant.
Originally Posted by alldata
Engine Coolant
The long life engine coolant is formulated to last for five years or 240,000 km (150,000 miles) . The coolant is silicate free and orange in color. The long life engine coolant must not be mixed with conventional engine coolant.
well as we have established, mixing is definately bad, im not sure about using other kinds. I have read using the orange stuff on cars that take green can eat through the older radiators, but i havnt heard anything bad about putting green stuff in newer cars. but i dont know

on a side note, is this the most complicated coolant system you have ever seen?
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Last edited by Sideo; 08-02-2009 at 10:35 PM.
  #15  
Old 08-02-2009, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jagv8
Some of them can combine to form a gel. Check you don't fall for that.
hmm that might be what happened to my valve, (see pictures)
im going to ask the guy who owned it if he mixed colant, or mabye added some of that stopleak
 
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:01 AM
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Default dccv

hey jagv8. what do you mean it forms a gel. is it supposed to do that.
 
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Old 08-03-2009, 03:47 AM
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stevenngo - this is the cooling system so NO. That is why not to mix the types of coolant!!!!!!
 
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:11 AM
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As long as you run long-life red/orange coolant that meets M97B44-D standards, you'll be safe. As has been pointed out before in a previous thread, look for the M97B44-D specifications on the label before you buy your coolant. Most decent long-life red/orange coolant being manufactured today meets those specifications. But check the label to ensure you're buying the right stuff.

Problems (usually gumming or gelling) occur when you mix old-style green coolant with vehicles that require red/orange coolant. Their formulas are not compatible.
 
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:18 PM
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Unhappy dccv

just got a phone call from the service writer saying after he replaced the wiring harness, that my air still blows cold on drivers side, and hot on epassenger. he now tells me that he needs to replace the heater control valve, or water control valve. is that the same term for dccv? need help on info before i spend more cash...............
 
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:33 PM
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yes i believe those are the same valve, alldata refers to it has heater control valve when im looking it up on the jag, and as a coolant control valve when im looking it up as ford
 


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