OK..TPS/TB project write up...full pics!! FAQ
#21
Only if you use an appropriate cleaner and do not rub or damage the coating. That's gonna rule out a fair few people but they may damage it finding out!!
You also must not damage its setting/mechanism.
Generally a TB does not need cleaning. Usually you're hunting for a problem but it's not caused by the TB being dirty.
Heck, plenty turn out to be the APP not the TPS. One's in the cabin, the other under the hood....
(I'm all in favout of those who know what they're doing, and know they're doing it to the right device, cleaning it or whatever else may be needed.)
You also must not damage its setting/mechanism.
Generally a TB does not need cleaning. Usually you're hunting for a problem but it's not caused by the TB being dirty.
Heck, plenty turn out to be the APP not the TPS. One's in the cabin, the other under the hood....
(I'm all in favout of those who know what they're doing, and know they're doing it to the right device, cleaning it or whatever else may be needed.)
#22
Glad you got it fixed but you are using the wrong tool??
Those clamps are reusable and they need a special tool called "Cable Clamp Pliers". Do not pry them off.
I have posted this before and it's really useful when changing a DCCV too. The cable allows the pliers to be remote from the clamp and they lock in place so when the clamp is spread open it stays that way until you release the pliers. People normally just use regular pliers which will work but it's hard if not impossible to get enough access to the clamps in the tight engine bay of any modern car and especially our Jaguars.
Here is a picture.
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You need to remove those 2 clamps. This is easy as they pry right off with a flat head. HOWEVER..these clamps are NOT REUSABLE. Crazy design but it is what it is so have on hand basic screw down clamps.
I have posted this before and it's really useful when changing a DCCV too. The cable allows the pliers to be remote from the clamp and they lock in place so when the clamp is spread open it stays that way until you release the pliers. People normally just use regular pliers which will work but it's hard if not impossible to get enough access to the clamps in the tight engine bay of any modern car and especially our Jaguars.
Here is a picture.
#23
This is how I cleaned my TB for the past year on both cars. Jaguar throttle body cleaning xk8 I can control my TB from outside the car on my XK8 but on my S-Type I needed someone inside the car to manage the accelerator keeping the RPM’s at 2000 as I spray into the TB as the car is running. I recently had to rebuild my TB on my XK8 and this is what I saw when I did that. Jaguar XK8 Throttle Body R&R FYI I have not touched the TB in over a year. However, I should mention I use BG44K once a year.
#24
Please bear in mind that the XK8 TB is utterly different. It is effectively an old-fashioned one whose position is controlled by a cable. The S-Type is drive-by-wire so its TB is high-precision factory-calibrated motor-controlled. It has multiple TPS sensors mounted, each high-precision and factory-calibrated. I'm not sure what can be learned from the XK8 TB?
(I expect Gus could still clean an S-Type one, well, probably, but Gus is hardly typical.)
(I expect Gus could still clean an S-Type one, well, probably, but Gus is hardly typical.)
#25
#26
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#28
Specifically the TPS connector with 4 wires. Put small screwdriver in hole on the connector still won't pry loose. Tried pushing and pulling with the screwdriver nothing I've tried seams to work. There is a similar connector on the other side of the intake with three wires. Tried everything on that one and can't figure it out. Definitely think it has something to do with sticking the small screwdriver in. Just don't know if it's push down hard or pull to front or back. I don't want to break the plastic apart.
#29
Join Date: Jan 2012
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The connectors should not require a tool to unplug. Simply squeeze the connector with your fingers and gently pry straight away from the other side of the connector to release the plug.
Sometimes they can get stuck from dirt build up or from the repeated heating and cooling that takes place in the engine compartment.
Sometimes they can get stuck from dirt build up or from the repeated heating and cooling that takes place in the engine compartment.
#30
#31
#32
Yes I had a P0121 and the P1254 after a drive a mile or so back home with LIMP mode. It was the first time I'd ever seen the P0121 but I think it's related to the P1254 and TB, LIMP etc. Going to see if this TB Cleaning does the trick.
I have a persistant P1647 upstream O2, changed new Denso sensors twice changed fuses and relay and it's back time after time.
I have a persistant P1647 upstream O2, changed new Denso sensors twice changed fuses and relay and it's back time after time.
#33
Cleaning the TB is a good idea but you also need to focus on the electrical connectors to be sure they are clean and seated properly.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf
#34
#35
So far the P1254 and P0121 are gone. I hope for good! The throttle motor 2-wire connect on the TB was connected but the plastic snap on the connector was missing so it pulled right off! The TPS connector looked good, clean and tight, I followed all of the cleaning instructions in this post took the sensor off and blasted the heck out of it with the CRC electric contact cleaner until is screamed enough. Can't say I found the smoking gun, the TB butterfly was a mess, the backside had thick black deposit and it was growing around the edge of the butterfly making me wonder if it was not permitted to close completely, and the P1254 throttle return spring broken code???I only saw the P0121 code for the first time last night after I was able to drive/coast the car almost a mile in LIMP mode back to it's stall in the garage at 5MPH.
I cleared the codes, only one left at the moment is the blasted P1647! I can clear it and it comes back 10 minutes later. I'm about ready to run a new wire from the O2 sensor right to the ECU.
I cleared the codes, only one left at the moment is the blasted P1647! I can clear it and it comes back 10 minutes later. I'm about ready to run a new wire from the O2 sensor right to the ECU.
#36
Sounds a good find! We've had a few similar I think.
It's a pretty powerful motor so I wonder if the code was because the PCM couldn't see a TPS value it expected due to the poor connection.
You'd have to run more than one wire I think but it's OK to do it and indeed techs may do so for any harness that just isn't working right.
It's a pretty powerful motor so I wonder if the code was because the PCM couldn't see a TPS value it expected due to the poor connection.
You'd have to run more than one wire I think but it's OK to do it and indeed techs may do so for any harness that just isn't working right.
#37
#40
This is a 5 year old thread, but I could use this information, mostly the OP initial post with pictures, but the pics won't come up. I'm using Firefox. I figure the hosting site for the pics is debunked and those links no longer work, but JF should download all pics when they are posted and keep them in JF library so they are always available and show up in the thread, regardless of what happens with the original source of the pics. Pictures explain a 1,000 words in an instant.