S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 ) 1999 - 2008 2001 - 2009
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OK..TPS/TB project write up...full pics!! FAQ

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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 08:15 AM
  #21  
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Only if you use an appropriate cleaner and do not rub or damage the coating. That's gonna rule out a fair few people but they may damage it finding out!!

You also must not damage its setting/mechanism.

Generally a TB does not need cleaning. Usually you're hunting for a problem but it's not caused by the TB being dirty.

Heck, plenty turn out to be the APP not the TPS. One's in the cabin, the other under the hood....

(I'm all in favout of those who know what they're doing, and know they're doing it to the right device, cleaning it or whatever else may be needed.)
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 10:28 AM
  #22  
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Glad you got it fixed but you are using the wrong tool??


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You need to remove those 2 clamps. This is easy as they pry right off   with a flat head. HOWEVER..these clamps are NOT REUSABLE. Crazy design   but it is what it is so have on hand basic screw down clamps.
Those clamps are reusable and they need a special tool called "Cable Clamp Pliers". Do not pry them off.

I have posted this before and it's really useful when changing a DCCV too. The cable allows the pliers to be remote from the clamp and they lock in place so when the clamp is spread open it stays that way until you release the pliers. People normally just use regular pliers which will work but it's hard if not impossible to get enough access to the clamps in the tight engine bay of any modern car and especially our Jaguars.

Here is a picture.

 
Attached Thumbnails OK..TPS/TB project write up...full pics!!  FAQ-cable-clamp-pliers.jpg  
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #23  
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This is how I cleaned my TB for the past year on both cars. Jaguar throttle body cleaning xk8 I can control my TB from outside the car on my XK8 but on my S-Type I needed someone inside the car to manage the accelerator keeping the RPM’s at 2000 as I spray into the TB as the car is running. I recently had to rebuild my TB on my XK8 and this is what I saw when I did that. Jaguar XK8 Throttle Body R&R FYI I have not touched the TB in over a year. However, I should mention I use BG44K once a year.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #24  
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Please bear in mind that the XK8 TB is utterly different. It is effectively an old-fashioned one whose position is controlled by a cable. The S-Type is drive-by-wire so its TB is high-precision factory-calibrated motor-controlled. It has multiple TPS sensors mounted, each high-precision and factory-calibrated. I'm not sure what can be learned from the XK8 TB?

(I expect Gus could still clean an S-Type one, well, probably, but Gus is hardly typical.)
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #25  
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The point was the cleaning process and if you look at the TB & the intake you will see how well it works. Sorry if you missed the point.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #26  
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I have a question on Step 3 removing the connectors. I got a small screwdriver in them wiggled every way pressed down everything I can think of but the connectors will not pry loose. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #27  
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There's often a central part you have to push against the body so the rest will come apart. Worth looking at easier to see ones and haveing a try on them to get the idea. (Don't know the one you're doing.)
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 01:23 PM
  #28  
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Specifically the TPS connector with 4 wires. Put small screwdriver in hole on the connector still won't pry loose. Tried pushing and pulling with the screwdriver nothing I've tried seams to work. There is a similar connector on the other side of the intake with three wires. Tried everything on that one and can't figure it out. Definitely think it has something to do with sticking the small screwdriver in. Just don't know if it's push down hard or pull to front or back. I don't want to break the plastic apart.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #29  
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The connectors should not require a tool to unplug. Simply squeeze the connector with your fingers and gently pry straight away from the other side of the connector to release the plug.

Sometimes they can get stuck from dirt build up or from the repeated heating and cooling that takes place in the engine compartment.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #30  
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Just finished this TB DIY
Engine runs better, P1254 has not shown up yet.
Waiting for the engine to go cold and then I'll try it again.
Hope this cures the blasted RESTRICTED PERFORMACE and even worse LIMP MODE !!!!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2014 | 08:33 PM
  #31  
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Do you have other codes?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 06:22 AM
  #32  
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Yes I had a P0121 and the P1254 after a drive a mile or so back home with LIMP mode. It was the first time I'd ever seen the P0121 but I think it's related to the P1254 and TB, LIMP etc. Going to see if this TB Cleaning does the trick.
I have a persistant P1647 upstream O2, changed new Denso sensors twice changed fuses and relay and it's back time after time.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 09:18 AM
  #33  
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Cleaning the TB is a good idea but you also need to focus on the electrical connectors to be sure they are clean and seated properly.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 09:44 AM
  #34  
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See the codes PDF. P0121 is not about the TB. Its about the sensor & its wiring etc. Clean the TB if you like but don't expect that to fix the P0121.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #35  
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So far the P1254 and P0121 are gone. I hope for good! The throttle motor 2-wire connect on the TB was connected but the plastic snap on the connector was missing so it pulled right off! The TPS connector looked good, clean and tight, I followed all of the cleaning instructions in this post took the sensor off and blasted the heck out of it with the CRC electric contact cleaner until is screamed enough. Can't say I found the smoking gun, the TB butterfly was a mess, the backside had thick black deposit and it was growing around the edge of the butterfly making me wonder if it was not permitted to close completely, and the P1254 throttle return spring broken code???I only saw the P0121 code for the first time last night after I was able to drive/coast the car almost a mile in LIMP mode back to it's stall in the garage at 5MPH.
I cleared the codes, only one left at the moment is the blasted P1647! I can clear it and it comes back 10 minutes later. I'm about ready to run a new wire from the O2 sensor right to the ECU.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 03:27 PM
  #36  
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Sounds a good find! We've had a few similar I think.

It's a pretty powerful motor so I wonder if the code was because the PCM couldn't see a TPS value it expected due to the poor connection.

You'd have to run more than one wire I think but it's OK to do it and indeed techs may do so for any harness that just isn't working right.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 06:20 PM
  #37  
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Did you mark the TPS when you removed it from TB? If not, how did you get it set correctly without a voltmeter?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Wuzupez
Did you mark the TPS when you removed it from TB? If not, how did you get it set correctly without a voltmeter?

Yes. I scribed a line on the plastic TPS and the metal TB before disassembly and lined it up when I reassembled. Seems to be good enough.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2014 | 07:09 PM
  #39  
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Fergs03R, thanks for the great write up. Yes, I would appreciate a similar write up on your brake job. Thanks
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 08:54 PM
  #40  
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This is a 5 year old thread, but I could use this information, mostly the OP initial post with pictures, but the pics won't come up. I'm using Firefox. I figure the hosting site for the pics is debunked and those links no longer work, but JF should download all pics when they are posted and keep them in JF library so they are always available and show up in the thread, regardless of what happens with the original source of the pics. Pictures explain a 1,000 words in an instant.
 
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