Hey Guys...

I am trying to make my aftermarket amp run again. Before as a remote I tapped into the cigar lighter, however now it doesn't seem to work properly even though the fuses and everything are good. I replaced the wire and it worked for a bit, then stopped. So I am looking for a new remote cable that I can tap to. Remote as in a cable that only has power when the car is running...

Thanks!

 

I am looking to do the exact same thing, I am thinking i may have to tap into the ignition, mind you the stereo only turns on when the car is running so that may be a possibility

 

page 118 I'm going to try the harness pin 2

B+ IP65-2 IGNITION SWITCHED POWER SUPPLY (I): B+


that should give us what we want.


http://jaguar.bttlxe.com/xtype/Elect...ec%20Guide.pdf


I'm gonna get some crimp clips the ball and sockets cut pin 2 then i can reassemble it, and i will be able to test for voltage

 

if u figure it out, can you please let me know.

thanks!

 

Shall Do bud, I am also thinking of mounting a small switch in the ashtray to allow me to disable the amp if i wish. I will give you a mail with the details, where did you mount your amp, i have manipulated the frame for the autochanger and with a bit of MDF have it mounted there, it is just perfect and keeps the amp hidden.

 

I spliced into pin 2 on the audio harness, a small yellow cable with a green line.
I wired that into the remote cable through a small black on off switch that i got from my local motorfactors to allow me to be able to turn it off if i want to from the cabin, the switch fitted nicely in the removable part of the ash tray, if you look there is a bigger part then that squashes down, well the squashed bit happened to be the exact size of the switch, i also made a small plastic side to the switch to cover the wires.
I have some pictures i could email of the switch if it may be helpful.

 

Thanks a lot for the wire color, that's exactly what i needed! I had my app previously remoted to the cigar lighter, however it stopped working, I tried changing the cables and everything, however no avail. Now I just need to order the parts to hardwire the FM Transmitter to the head unit!

 

Question though, Do I need to have the switch installed? I does this yellow and green cable have power running though it at all times or just when the car is on? If I has power running though it all the time I can understand the need for the switch for my needs. If yu dont mind can you show me the pictures? Just put them on tinypic.com and copy and paste the link or just email them to me at gupdah@yahoo.com. I am sure if you post them on tinypic.com, everyone will be able to benefit from your hardwork!!!

Thanks!

 

Pin two on the stereo harness is 12v that tells the stereo to turn on so is only on when the ignition is on.

On my harness pin one is a ground, it is a thick black cable and it has a little number 1 next to it, pin two is on the same bank on cables and is quite a bit thinner.


I think the second bank of cables on my harness is has a little number 11 next too it.

G A R R R R
R C E E E E
O C A A A A
U 1 R R R R
N 2 L L R R
D V + - + -

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

I put the Ground, Rear L Pos, Rear L Neg, Rear R Pos, Rear R Neg and the ground on there as that is where i spliced my hi / low converter in to give me a pre out which i ran my RCA cable to my amp from.

The switch is not necessary, it just allows you too overide power to the amp if you should wish too, sometimes I propably wouldn't run the amp if i was driving late at night, or if my girlfriend is sleeping on a long journey.. she loves sleep.

switch
<a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i40.tinypic.com/wb9yyv.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

switch in the ashtray
<a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i43.tinypic.com/24az95h.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

sorry i didn't take a pic of the splice,

Basically the switch had two sides one side ran at left side 6 amp right side 3amp, i chose the side with 6 amp, top of the switch came fromt he spliced feed from pin 2, the bottom of the switch went to the amp as the remote feed, i used spade clips so i could swap them if i needed too. but it works a treat.

With the switch on, the amp turns on with the ignition

With the ingition on, switch off, the amp turns off

Switch on, ignition off, the amp turns off


Summary of audio harness pins IP65 is the harness name then a dash then the pin number. I am taking PG a Power Ground, B+ a battery Pos, O as Output, I as input???

PG IP65-1 POWER GROUND: GROUND
B+ IP65-2 IGNITION SWITCHED POWER SUPPLY (I): B+
O IP65-3 LH REAR AUDIO +
O IP65-4 LH REAR AUDIO -
O IP65-5 RH REAR AUDIO +
O IP65-6 RH REAR AUDIO -
I IP65-7 TELEPHONE MUTE SIGNAL
O IP65-8 SECURITY SYSTEM GROUND SENSING: GROUND WHEN AUDIO UNIT INSTALLED
S IP65-9 SCP +
S IP65-10 SCP –
B+ IP65-11 BATTERY POWER SUPPLY: B+
O IP65-12 AMPLIFIER ENABLE
O IP65-13 LH FRONT AUDIO -
O IP65-14 LH FRONT AUDIO +
O IP65-15 RH FRONT AUDIO -
O IP65-16 RH FRONT AUDIO +
I IP65-17 DIMMER CONTROLLED ILLUMINATION: PWM, 80Hz, GROUND = 0% DUTY CYCLE, B+ = 100% DUTY CYCLE
I IP65-18 STEERING WHEEL SWITCHES: STEPPED RESISTANCE
O IP65-19 D2B NETWORK WAKE-UP

 

Just the pic links without the extra html. sorry about that but I though that would embed them.



I should have took a pic of the wiring harness when spliced, i will do if i have to pop the stereo out again.