So, for those of you who have read some of my posts I've been chasing a few sneaky problems. I was having a misfire issue and I believe I have since solved that problem by replacing the coils, re-replacing the plugs, the gaskets, the MAP & MAF sensors as well as the crank sensor. I haven't had any misfire issues since. But, I have constantly been commenting on a feeling of hesitation uphill in like 4 low, or 4 high, which ever is first (you know how it shifts into 4th and then seems like it does a half shift in 4th?).

I've taken it in a few times because over the months it has gone into limp mode, but its been a mystery to anyone as to what might be wrong. I've had codes pointing at the throttle body each time, but they were different codes, and the first time there were misfire codes mixed in (which is the time frame of when I ended up replacing all the stuff above). I don't remember the first code, but the 2nd most recent code was P2135 and I was told the codes relating to the misfiring hadn't been deleted so it may have been causing the ECU to compensate for an issue that wasn't occurring anymore. I don't know if that was BS. This last time, after all the codes were deleted, I again got the P2135 which basically indicates "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A'/B' Circuit Voltage" and I believe that it's generic, but indicates a problem with the throttle body.

My question is, how often has anyone who has replaced their throttle body had to replace it again? Is it not uncommon for the throttle body to have to constantly be replaced? My throttle body was replaced 2yrs ago and it has less than 12K miles on it. Should it be failing again??? I was told by the shop that sometimes they can be faulty so I asked them to let me know who the manufacturer was and what their warranty was, but getting that information from the shop seems to be more challenging than I expected. Maybe it slipped their mind, but they weren't real quick to dig it up and let me know. In all fairness though, I was out of the country for a week and left the car with them to diagnose and try to replicate. They may have forgotten since I wasn't in direct contact with them for about 5 days (trying to give them the benefit of the doubt).

 

I really don't think the throttle bodies should be failing so prematurely. At 130K miles I had my first throttle body problems and then I followed this tutorial to open up the TPS, clean it and reseal it. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-50741/

Currently I'm at 180K miles on the original Throttle Body and sensor and have had zero issues since that DIY. Worth a try if you are a bit mechanically inclined (or if you want to save around 500 bucks).

 

Thanks for sharing that aCapiz. Last I read anything about the TPS or throttle body I was left with the impression that the TPS couldn't be removed, cleaned or replaced and that the whole throttle body needed to be replaced to the tune of nearly $900-$1200 a pop. This is a good read and I like the 'know how' in order to get my hands dirty if it comes to that.

I happened upon this website that sells OEM Throttle Bodies and New, manufactured to original specs, Throttle Bodies and I'm curious if there is any opinion on whether these are worth considering. Is a throttle body a throttle body or does a person need to get the expensive one from the dealer, or dealer supplier? I have to admit $370 is pretty tempting.

2006 Jaguar X Type Throttle Body All Models 47-60202 AN

 

That does seem like a good price for a throttle body. I have never purchased anything from that store but they do seem to offer a lot of safeguards like free replacement if the part doesn't fit and a one year warranty on parts they sell.

If you are short on funds and have a bit of time then it might be worth to tinker around with the throttle body and the sensor. If you need your Jag to be working ASAP and reliably then I would go ahead and buy they one you posted.

Good luck!

 

I need the car to run asap since it is my primary means of transportation, but I also work less than 5 miles away so it wouldn't be a huge issue if I had to improvise for a few days. I'm thinking of taking the chance and buying one of theirs and then tinkering with the current one on the car since it is relatively new as well. It beats buying another dealer one for $900 and the worst that could happen is the one I posted doesn't work and I jack up the other one. Can't imagine that would be the case. If a throttle body is replaced is there any calibrating or resetting of anything I need to know about? Or is it like taking a MAF sensor off and putting a new one on and starting the car up?

 

I have a used one for sale. Let me know. It is from a 04 with 80 k on it. Pm me , I will let it go for 300. and I give a 30 day warranty on it


Good luck,
The Dr!

 

Just plug and play and away you go.

 

Today, while parked, my car went into limp mode at idle......actually I had it idling at about 2K with my foot on the pedal. This is exactly 7 days since the last time it went into limp.

Besides sharing that, I went ahead and purchased the BuyAutoParts throttle body - to have on hand in case - for $315 down from $371. I happened to stumble on a coupon code (BF1525CJ) that I applied at check out and it gave me 15% Off orders of $50+ and also a $25 store coupon. Wanted to share in case anyone is looking for a deal on a bulk order of some parts.
15% OFF All $50+ Orders + $25 Store Coupon
Enter (BF1525CJ) at your shopping cart, scroll down and look below "Checkout Now" for where to enter a coupon code.

 

Unfortunately, BuyAutoParts didn't have the $300 Throttle in stock, so they say, so i consulted Jagbits and also another website, shopdealerparts.com, and got a throttle body for $630. I would have rather bought from Gary at Jagbits, but money is tight. Shout out to Gary, he is first class in my opinion and I'll happily do business with him in the future. I took my car down to a Jag tech and he was pretty confident the TPS when out. Good news is, in talking with Gary, the throttle body for a 2006 isn't a common part he sells much of. So I assume I got a faulty one. I'll take the old out, clean it as described here, and have it on hand for a possible replacement. I also plan on putting the new in so i know I did it and anything that goes wrong will be my fault. It doesn't seem challenging and I've worked on cars before, so I'm confident. I'll update everyone if replacing the throttle body solves my issues. Having a throttle body less than 2yrs old and less than 12K on it, it wasn't my first assumption it was the root of my problem. But I guess we'll see. Thank you for all the feedback and help. I've been chasing this issue since May and I hope the New OEM throttle solves my problem. Fingers crossed. I should have it Monday or Tuesday.

 

I was receiving the same codes for Throttle Body/Pedal Position Sensor, also know as the Throttle Pedal Actuator (sensor located on the gas pedal). My car seemed to be loosing power and I found myself mashing the gas all the way down to the floor, only for it to creep up to the speed I needed not get run off the road. I replaced the Pedal Actuator for $130 and have not had any issues in that field since. Hopefully the throttle body will do the trick and keep you from spending more money, but if not the Throttle Pedal Actuator is a inexpensive and easy fix. Good Luck!!!

 

ddjjones, you won't believe this but I actually had the pedal assembly replaced a year after the throttle body was replace. Almost exactly a year. Throttle body was replaced in Sept 2012 and the Pedal Assembly was Nov. 2013. I'm hoping that the throttle body was the culprit this entire time, but it's hanging in the back of my mind that my next step might need to be another pedal assembly if this doesn't fix my issue. I'll be replacing the throttle today after work. Wish me luck.

 

This may be a premature update, but I replaced the throttle body with a brand new OEM factory Jag one. Started it up and it idled really nicely and shifted with quick response. Felt as it should! But, unfortunately, that deteriorated after a bit of driving around and I ended up going back into limp mode with the same Fault code (P2135). The good news, I think, is that the codes originally stored were just the P2135 and P1000. When I replaced the TB the P1000 went away and the P1111 came up. Good sign. Eventually the MIL light went off as well, but then shortly after - while I was on the freeway at about 65mph - the fault occurred. I turned the car off, waited 30-60sec and restarted. Didn't have the fault again even though I drove around in traffic, stop and go, and idled at lights. I didn't feel as though it shift quite right though. So i may get lucky and it doesn't occur again, but I'm skeptical yet hopeful and optimistic.

Few questions:

1. First question, is this/could this be typical after replacing the TB and it's just a scare? The P2135 is showing as a pending code, but the MIL light is off.

2. Should I try putting dielectric grease on the female plug to the TB? On a 2006 the TPS and the actuator gears are all in the same plastic encasing on the TB with one plug.

2. I've replaced the Pedal Assembly + sensor, as mentioned above, can that easily go out with little miles/use? It has somewhere around 6K miles of mostly city driving.

3. Battery checked out, but if my lights dim when I give it gas and let it drop to normal idle does this indicate maybe the battery needs some attention?

4. Anyone have any feedback on whether the Range Sensor (Neutral Safety Switch) could be causing this? I believe there is a separate code for that sensor though.

5. I noticed sometimes I have a diminishing residual beep come through my speakers as I open my door and the locks auto unlock. This happens at random and always after driving. Never just by starting and idling. What is this all about???

6. Any other suggestions of things to troubleshoot to track down the cause of my Gearbox Fault? All feedback is welcome.