Is the premium-amp LNF4170AA and regular-amp LNC4170AA?
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Certainly looks that way from the wiring diagram, see speakers are direct to head unit.
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1. I have a VDP, so there is an amp that works fine, except no sound comes out of my subwoofer so I thought a new amp would fix the problem (?)
2. the ebay merchant kindly cancelled the order to my request and refunded, indeed the 98-99 units are visually quite different then 00-03 and no sense in adding yet more variables to getting this fixed
2. the ebay merchant kindly cancelled the order to my request and refunded, indeed the 98-99 units are visually quite different then 00-03 and no sense in adding yet more variables to getting this fixed
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Also, I have a great TrueRMS tester but my EE education was a while back, so I need the dummied-down version; am I testing for voltage? Audio has inline capacitance, so it is AC right, not DC? What range of current is considered normal?
This is I think I can manage, unplug harness, stick each lead into the end of the harness sub-connections and set the tester to resistance, right What ohmage is considered normal? 4 or 8 or something else?
Thanks man, this is a big help!
Is there any possibility that the head-unit would not send the amp a subwoofer signal or is the crossover inside the amp?
After reading other people's experience removing the back seat to change the sub, the amp is definitely the easier part to fix...
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to test the output of the sub channel of the amp it's Volts to 4V I think....? you do this by pulling the carpet and disconnect one side at a time (as the sub is dual voice coil) stick the meter probes into the connector + and -
The speaker is the same stick the probes on their connectors but set the meter to Ohms, there should be a resistance of some sort, I've a working one in a box somewhere I can tell you what it should read if I dig it out.
I didn't know you had an amp already - might have been something to do with your question about a standard system and how the speakers are wired to the head unit.
9 times out of 10, it's the speaker's rubber surround that's split, I think you're going to have to change or fix it.
The speaker is the same stick the probes on their connectors but set the meter to Ohms, there should be a resistance of some sort, I've a working one in a box somewhere I can tell you what it should read if I dig it out.
I didn't know you had an amp already - might have been something to do with your question about a standard system and how the speakers are wired to the head unit.
9 times out of 10, it's the speaker's rubber surround that's split, I think you're going to have to change or fix it.
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vdpnyc (04-01-2012)
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Roy
The following users liked this post:
vdpnyc (04-01-2012)
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Each connector has a + and - .....disconnect one at a time and see if you get anything from the amp while it's running, be very careful not to touch the meter probes on anything whist testing the amp or you might damage it.
Once you've confirmed wether you have output from the sub channels on the amp, you can test the speaker, as already mentioned - it can be a strain on the back as you'll have to reach up to connect the meter.
I upgraded my premium system recently, so it's still fresh as to what parts are where.
Hope this helps, and as far as taking the rear seat out to replace the sub, it's not difficult, don't worry about it.
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