Here is a list of parts I used to upgrade to new piping and pump.
Having just changed mine this is what I recommend.



#1 Pump C2Z31587 (my pump came with #2 and 3 but i got the URO part #C2Z21781 as it was only $85.40 from amazon )
#2 Gasket Aj813609 2 required (came with pump)
#3 Bolt C2Z1859 4 required (came with pump)
#4 Tube C2Z18658 Mine came with seal shown as #5(front)
#5 Tube seal Aj811539



you will also need Aj813565 and C2Z28467 see attachment

This is quite a simple job hardest part for me was fitting the new pipes as they do not flex very much just be careful take your time took me just under 2 hours to complete.

 

Your Public Profile shows that your XJ is a 2012. How many miles before the OEM water pump failed?

Hopefully, you'll get good service out of that pump even though it is inexpensive. Please keep the Forum informed.

 

Thanks Stuart
Just purchased the car
I was just shy of 58,000 miles
Carfax says nothing about the water pump being changed by previous owner.
so hopefully I can get another 60K out of this one

 

Hi Paul,

A youtube video of your pump swamp, I'm certain would receive many likes. Just a thought.

Best of luck.

Ray

 

Also ended up having to replace as they were brittle
AJ89664 #20
C2D6005 #25 came with #26 fitted (LR018275 is the land rover part number looks like the same part in pictures at 1/3 the cost but found after I ordered)




also #4 on drawing above LR028136 1/2 the price of the Jag part
strange how some of the land rover parts are less expensive and its the same engine

 

A word of caution here. I have spoken to my tech on several occasions asking how come I see a lot more V8 engine replacements and internal failures on Land Rovers than Jags and he has stated there are many internal part differences between the two.

 

I need to change the water pump on my 2011 XJ Supersport.

Does this parts list apply to the 5.0 SC motor as well?

Thanks!

 

XJ-SS

Sorry for the late reply I was traveling.

From what I have found these parts are for all XJ models, supercharged or naturally aspirated.

 

I am going to ask the silly question on how to identify if you have the old or new version water pump without having to rip the intake off of the car. From what I can tell from the pictures, other than the internals of the pump, the big difference seems to be on the large pipe to the right of the water pump has a hose coming off of it now vice that hose coming off a small line from the old pump. is this something that can be seen by looking next to the throttle body? If not, is there something that can be seen?

I ask as it would appear that my water pump is starting to give me grief as I am starting to notice a little bit of coolant loss and I think I see a trail of coolant running down the front of the engine down near the oil pan and slightly up from there (can't trace it all the way out since it is raining and am hoping I can figure this out without ripping apart the front of the engine).

I am really tempted on replacing the water pump just because if for no other reason than to make sure I have a good water pump in the car. This would be just to make sure that I don't end up trashing a motor because of bad cooling with the known issues with the water pump.

 

That would be great to know!
I have a 2014 and still not sure if it has the latest water pump on it or not?
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clubairth1, I think I have figured it out. What you will need to do is remove the cover over the top of the engine. If you look down at the right side of the throttlebody, you will see a small coolant line that comes up and then runs over to the overflow bottle. On the vertical section coming up from the water pump, you will see where there is a fitting with a connection coming off at a 45 degree angle. If you have a hose coming off of it, you have the old style. If this port is plugged, you have the new style. In my case, I have a 2012 and have the old style water pump. Now sure what you may find since you have a 2014.

 

All the older pumps were FoMoCo branded cast into the front of the pump. The newer, at least, the one I have are cast with Jaguar and Land Rover. Look at this photo and you can see that the pump has the Land Rover cast in a spot you can see in the on the pump just under the belt. Hope this helps

 

Chris,
When you get all the parts for the pump change let me know.
Would be an idea to make a video for future members.
If I am available I could come give you a hand.

##### TIP #####

After you finish changing the coolant pump pressure test the system. I used the coolant tester kit from Advance Auto (Loan a tool)

Pressure tester


to make sure you have no leaks my major problem was the seals #5 in first post I only changed the front seal but it was the rear seal that is on the oil cooler that had gone bad.
I used undiluted Ford coolant to lube up the seals and then mixed to top up the system had no problems so far 20K later

 

Paul, if you are free this weekend, that is when I plan on doing it. The parts should be here on Thursday. So, the weekend should be a nice time to get it done.

 

Thanks Thermo!


Since I have the 45 degree junction NOT connected I "think" I have the updated water pump?
I have circled the nipple in red.






Interestingly I don't have Ford or JLR markings on my water pump?




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Ok, silly question. I just did my water pump and I find that the metal gaskets that they give you for the back side of the water pump would be much better if you simply didn't use them and used something like gasket maker. Is there a reason why those are used instead of the traditional paper gasket with a permatex backup? You still need to clean up the surfaces with the metal gaskets (atleast you should). So, you are not really saving anything as long as you are not crazy with the amount of gasket maker you are using.

 

Are those items 2 and 3 in the first post?
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clubairth1, they would be the two parts labeled "2". they are metal seals that get squished when you tighten things down. If you are familiar with rebuilding an engine, these seals would remind you of a head gasket.

 

Thanks for putting all this together, I just ordered all the parts including the URO pump over OEM, seems like you've had good success with it. Then I'll check my coolant system for leaks. Original water pump @ 60k miles. No leaks or indication of problem, but probably want to do this as preventative maintenance.

 

This list may have saved my 5.0, also found upgraded metal oil cooler pipeHad a slight smell of leaking coolant at the front left side of the engine compartment. After reading numerous horror stories and talking to a mechanic regarding catastrophic of coolant leaks causing a total engine failure, I decided to replace everything on the list (2012 XJL 5.0 NA, 32K miles). Please heed this warning and pass it on.

IMPORTANT! IN THE EVENT YOU ARE DRIVING and the "LOW COOLANT LEVEL" WARNING comes ON. .

STOP IMMEDIATELY!!! Shut off engine and do not restart under any circumstances!

Do Not Drive! Have the vehicle flat-bedded/towed in for repairs.

By the time the vehicle temperature display indicates it is "over-heating" it is too late! Catastrophic engine damage has already occurred. This engine damage is not limited to cracked cylinder walls. In this situation. the catastrophic failure of the water pump or coolant piping has just dumped all your coolant out in seconds. There is a history of a lot of junked 5.0 V8's because they did not realize the damage that was occurring.

I was lucky. After disassembly I did not find the plastic piping or water pump leaking. The leak developed on the back side of the water pump where the oil cooler pipe seals into the water pump with an "O" ring type seal.

I upgraded the entire system according to the list provided. However, the upgraded water pump kit came with all the bolts, gaskets and also the replacement oil cooler pipe and seals. After installation, I found a aftermarket replacement oil cooler pipe made of metal instead of the plastic at Rock Auto parts! Obviously the $10.60 metal replacement would have been superior to the plastic part. Not going to take everything apart again, but keep in mind if you are going to overhaul your water pump and piping.