bracing for new floor pans
#1
#2
You should always brace a car when putting in new floor pans. I am not saying the car will be warped or that noone has ever successfully installed a pan without bracing, but it is the correct way to go and doesn't take much more time.
Not as big of a deal if you car has a roof though. Just stick a brace or two in it so you know everything is exactly where it was
Not as big of a deal if you car has a roof though. Just stick a brace or two in it so you know everything is exactly where it was
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ronbros (12-11-2014)
#3
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when i did my xjs, i used a rotessoire roll over setup, did all my under body welding,
by using taught string tied to the front subframe body mounts, a criss cross to opposite side rear control arm mounts, crossed in the middle , with just a light contact.
during the install,to,monitor welding movement of both side floor pans ,both rockers, rear valance, modded wheel arches, and installing body reinforcement braces also any thing related to the body structure.
my car is RHD from england where they used to salt the roads with powderd pool acid, at least thats what it seemed like,RUST+RUST=RUST.
but i spent 1 1/2 yrs removing ALL the rust, on the roll over rig, without a doubt the best way to work on the bottom of a car!
by using taught string tied to the front subframe body mounts, a criss cross to opposite side rear control arm mounts, crossed in the middle , with just a light contact.
during the install,to,monitor welding movement of both side floor pans ,both rockers, rear valance, modded wheel arches, and installing body reinforcement braces also any thing related to the body structure.
my car is RHD from england where they used to salt the roads with powderd pool acid, at least thats what it seemed like,RUST+RUST=RUST.
but i spent 1 1/2 yrs removing ALL the rust, on the roll over rig, without a doubt the best way to work on the bottom of a car!
#5
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Brace is the safest.
But, a lot depends on the definition of floor pan!!! If merely, the flasts between structural members, probably not. Only caveat is short welds at a time, to avoid warping.
But if sills and crosses or bulk heads are cut. , oh yeah.
And, no twist force exerted by jacking is important. Work whiole level at whatever heighth.
There are about four pans in a Jag. Two up front and two behind. One at a time,with some care and all should be just fine.
Caveat. I'm not a restorer !!!
Carl
But, a lot depends on the definition of floor pan!!! If merely, the flasts between structural members, probably not. Only caveat is short welds at a time, to avoid warping.
But if sills and crosses or bulk heads are cut. , oh yeah.
And, no twist force exerted by jacking is important. Work whiole level at whatever heighth.
There are about four pans in a Jag. Two up front and two behind. One at a time,with some care and all should be just fine.
Caveat. I'm not a restorer !!!
Carl
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ronbros (12-16-2014)
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Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
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Brace is the safest.
But, a lot depends on the definition of floor pan!!! If merely, the flasts between structural members, probably not. Only caveat is short welds at a time, to avoid warping.
But if sills and crosses or bulk heads are cut. , oh yeah.
And, no twist force exerted by jacking is important. Work whiole level at whatever heighth.
There are about four pans in a Jag. Two up front and two behind. One at a time,with some care and all should be just fine.
Caveat. I'm not a restorer !!!
Carl
But, a lot depends on the definition of floor pan!!! If merely, the flasts between structural members, probably not. Only caveat is short welds at a time, to avoid warping.
But if sills and crosses or bulk heads are cut. , oh yeah.
And, no twist force exerted by jacking is important. Work whiole level at whatever heighth.
There are about four pans in a Jag. Two up front and two behind. One at a time,with some care and all should be just fine.
Caveat. I'm not a restorer !!!
Carl
couldnt have done it (accurately) with out the roll over rig,and i did use some bracing.
Last edited by ronbros; 12-16-2014 at 10:56 AM.
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