Drivers side window won't roll down. Maybe switch wires from RH window? What/where do I do that?? Any other suggestions??
Dick C.

 

Try switching the window switch that works (LHS?) with the one that doesn't..
Most of the time the window switch is the fault.. They can be opened up and cleaned, or replacements are cheap..
If you've tried that, report back and we'll check out the other possibilities..

Cheers
David
Everyday XJ

 

Thanks, that's my next step.
DickC.

 

Mine packed up for no real reason; removed the lid and tray from the centre consol and gently prodded the wiring bundles with a finger whilst pressing the button and bingo!, it worked again.
Probably a loose contact in or at the switch, replacement is the best option.

 

The switch mounting plate is loose but I'm afraid to pry on it as...if broken I imagine it is a $75 part, knowing Jaguar! Is there another way to get into the switches??
Dick C.

 

I think Steve's quote nails it..
Remove the lid and tray from the console.. Then you'll have access to the back side of the switches... You should be able to reverse the connections from the back side, just to test switch function... The switches just have tabs on the sides, so press in the tabs, and the switch comes out the front..
A note of caution, don't let the connectors (male side on the switch) touch the sides of the ski slope. It'll blow a thermal breaker, and leave you hunting something else...

Oh.. and it isn't a $75 part, if you know where to shop..

Cheers
David
Everyday XJ

 

I took the cover off but the tray looks like it is glued in place, I'm afraid I'll tear it to pieces by trying to remove it! Guess I have no choice.
Dick C.

 

Hi David

I've got the Exact same problem! (1989 XJS V12)

Passenger window goes up and down but not the drivers side.

So I swapped the switches over and the drivers side still doesn't work.

I'm not sure if I've blown a Thermal Breaker, don't know where to find it, what it looks like, or where it is.

Let alone how to fix it.

Any ideas what I should try and do next?

 

The thermal breaker on my LHD '92 sits behind the passenger knee bolster. It a small black unit screwed to the dash and has 2 wires going to it


Trying to past a picture BUT...............aaaaaaaaagggggg

 

Hi Malc

I've tried changing over the switches but the drivers window still won't work but I am getting a 12volt reading from the Switch Socket.

Which seems to indicate the problem may be the Window Motor, so unless you've got a better idea, I may have to take the door Panel off, to see if juice is getting to the motor.

Any idea how I get the door panel off?

 

OB
On your car the window electrics are slightly different than on my year, so I have no direct experience of your system. However, it is not likely (though possible) that the motor has failed. The main thing is to see if 12v is getting to the motor. First, look at the switch and find the outgoing wire that receives the 12v when the switch is pressed. Note its colours.

Then, before removing the door card (not hard by the way) remove the kick trim on the inside bottom of the A pillar (just by your right ankle/lower shin). This gives access to the wires that go to the door innards via the plastic tube you can see when you open the door. Removing the lower dash trim (the panel above your shins) may help. There will be wires for the lock, the courtesy light, the speaker, the mirror, and the window motor. Each of these has a connector at this point. You may have to fiddle about in the access hole in the A pillar to get at them.

The window wires will likely be the thickest, and with luck you will see the colour you noted on the wire that sends the volts from the switch. If so, test it with your test light for 12v (fixing the other end of the testing light to an earth) while the GF operates the switch. If the recognisable colour is not there, with the GF operating the switch once more, use your test light to find which wire goes live when the switch is pressed.

If the wire going to the motor goes live with the switch pressed, then the problem is inside the door. If no wire goes live, the problem is between the switch and the A pillar. This is where whatever relays and cutouts there are, come into the equation; my money is on them rather than the motor.

Greg

 

Hi Greg

I will give that a try and get back to you with the results.

 

Hi Greg

GF was unavailable as She has been sharing the days off with her business partner but in any event I made a Clamp for the Switch. (Good News!)

Next removed the 'Kick Trim' what a ' Bar Steward' of a Job that was and put a Volt Meter on the Wire as per your instructions and got a reading of 12 Volts (Bad News!)

So looks like something is wrong behind the door panel (Really Bad News!)

This is almost as bad as bleeding the Brakes!

Any suggestions as to what to do now?

 

My thermal cutout. '92 LHD. Black box with the 2 wires in the middle.

 

Hi Malc

Thanks for going to all that trouble of getting a Photo of the Thermal Cutout, so now I know what it looks like and where to find it.

Which will be a very big help to myself and other Members of the Forum, so I will take one off my 'Scrapper', just in case that is the cause of the problem.

 

Its not the Switch and its not the Thermal Cut out.

Power all the way to the door.

Not sure what to do next?

 

Maybe check the motor? How did you check the thermal cutout??

 

I just swapped it for another one from my scrapper

 

OB
Proceed as follows:

• Disconnect battery
• Open door and unscrew from the door front end the chrome striker plate that operates the courtesy light switch
• ease back the chrome ferrule that is round the thin end of the armrest. Under this is a HUGE pozi screw that you must undo
• under the door pocket front end is a well hidden screw, undo it
• then go round the door car and pop out the trim clips that hold the card edges in place. Start at the bottom front and work up the front vertical edge to the window, then go along the door bottom and up the rear edge to the window
• the car is now held in place by a large clip in the middle and by the edge along the window bottom. A GOOD vertical upward sharp clonk with the base opf the hand on the card will pop these free. CAREFUL as the door card is attached to the speaker wires and the courtesy light wires, AND in your case it being the driver's door the mirror switch wires.
• disconnect these carefully at their plugs. Get the GF/postman/passer by etc etc to hold the card while you do this as you will need two hands.

Now you can see the winder and its motor, JUST. I have not got a photo of the door inside handy, but when you get the card off, post one if you want more help. I cannot remember exactly where the motor is, but the window mechanism as a whole bolts into the door on a large roughly rectangular plate, and it will be there somewhere!



I suggest you make 100% sure that the leads that attach to the motor have power from the switch before you strat undoing anything in the door!


Good luck, but I have to say you tempted the XJS Goddess by starting to think about bling - keeping the lady happy in standard form is usually quite enough strain on self, bank account and patience!


Greg

 

Hi Greg

The door Card is off now as per your instructions and I can clearly see the Wires that operate the motor, which are joined by connectors.

When the Window Switch is pressed, Power is 100% definitely getting to the Motor so it is looking like a New Window Winder Motor 'nes pas!'