XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

XJS Hood Cable (Latch to Handle) Replacement

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  #21  
Old 10-08-2014, 01:45 AM
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another tip;


before feeding the new cable into the cable route from above, prepare the cable end by filling the end with soft solder. This will prevent the cable end from fraying & snagging as you feed it through.


without a solid end on the cable it is almost impossible to get the cable into the bracket on the handle.


also do not forget to ease of the socket screw that is located opposite to the bolt that holds the cable in place. Once the cable is in the handle re-tighten the socket screw first, then tighten the bolt on the opposite side.


have fun & stay cool
BernardS
 
  #22  
Old 10-08-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by afterburner1
For: DrScientist
Great Idea!
I understand the consept, but am confused on the execution. You get a bicycle spoke ; one end is bent and you cut the bend off. The other end has an adjustment thread. You take the cut end and thread it through the latch and then into the cabin to the handle.
The screw end is up on the latch.
This is where I need the help. 1. How did you attach it to the handle? 2. Did you use a cable stop on the handle end?
afterburner:
the handle mechanism has (on my 91) a small attachment piece which i can not find a decent photograph of.

there is a hole through which the cable/bike spoke is threaded. the cable/bike spoke is then held secure inside the hole by a separate small bolt situated at a 90 degree angle to the cable/bike spoke.

in the attached image which is from here:
Bonnet Lock Mechanism - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK

cable/bike spoke is 5.
at the very bottom of 5, you can see a very small bolt head which points in the south west direction in the image. (didn't know how else to explain this) this is the bolt that holds the cable/bike spoke in place.
 
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  #23  
Old 10-09-2014, 11:49 PM
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Clear as a bell. I have not seen the handle mechanism yet. It is difficult for an old guy to get into the proper position
Thanks for the very detailed response
 
  #24  
Old 10-10-2014, 10:49 PM
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understandable. i do remember having to lay myself out half in the car half on the garage floor trying to get my hands up in there. much easier if youre a gymnast, which i'm not.
 
  #25  
Old 10-11-2014, 02:01 PM
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Seriously, there is another tool that makes that type job easier. It's call an air mattress! Other observations: Swearing is of no help and calling your wife for assistance confirms irrational and utter desperation
 
  #26  
Old 11-06-2014, 09:40 PM
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Home Depot sells a braided cable, about 1/16 inch width, for 24 cents a foot. Being braided There is no need to solder the ends. I like the spoke arrangement because once it is in place adjustments in length can be made at the latch with the spoke adjustment device (screw end)
 
  #27  
Old 11-07-2014, 08:04 PM
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Bought a 12" spoke at the local bike shop for $2.33 and installed it today per DrScientist's instructions above. Deviated in a couple of areas. I threaded the spoke to the handle mechanism and did not remove any of the panels. I did remove the lower handle screw and loosened the upper. In this way I could rotate the handle to intercept the spoke and capture it in the stop. At this point you can tighten the locking screw and rotate the handle back to it's original location and make final adjustments.
The spoke has a screw end and that end should be on the latch with it's screw device. In that way more adjustsments can be made at the latch. I did the handle work on my knees outside the car (Great pain!)

P.S. On the 1993: Pull the handle to the rear to lock; forward to release
 

Last edited by afterburner1; 11-07-2014 at 08:13 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-11-2014, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ATL Dave
Late facelifts are different. We have a (gentle) slam shut type bonnet. And a plastic pull handle to release. Whereas the earlier cars have a handle that latches the bonnet closed, and unlatches it open.

Dave
Atlanta

MY 1996 XJS has a mechanism like RAGJAG.. Quoted below.
I have the same concern regarding the wire snapping and not being able to open hood.


Originally Posted by RagJag
Yes, goodness knows and aparently nobody else. I have to push down on the hood one corner at a time to get the latches to engage. They are spring loaded with a catch to lock them. Pulling the cable by the underdash lever unlatches them. I would have thought someone, by now, would have had a cable break or slip loose and been forced to devise a way to get the hood open.
I am tempted to purchase a set of latches that have keys to unlock them as some custom cars do. Neat chrome ones without the post sticking up with a cotter key-like thing as race cars use.
I will probably wait until it is too late though. If it ain't broke don't fix it deal.
RagJag
RAGJAG. Nobody else EXCEPT ME... We must have unique XJS. My hood locks using the same procedure...one corner at a time... My local jaguar dealership was also surprised on how I close hood.
 
  #29  
Old 06-06-2019, 09:32 PM
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How about the part number for this piece? 1992 my
 
  #30  
Old 06-07-2019, 10:59 AM
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The last time we talked about this was in 2014. I installed a spoke at that time and it hasn't failed yet. The spoke is threaded thought the cable sheath to the latch. If you want a fail safe attach a wire to the latch and feed it to the bottom of the car. If the operating spoke (cable) breaks you can elevated the car and pull on the wire.
 
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