Check engine light after ABS module repair
#1
Check engine light after ABS module repair
Not sure if this is related and am halfway done but here goes (Should probably finish the job first but....)
1999 XK8 Convertible, 103k miles.
Started yesterday morning - ABS/ Traction lights on, pulled ABS module, sliced it in half, resoldered power connectors, RTV back together.
Then, figured while car is down waiting for RTV to dry, I would look at a backlight issue on climate control module, pulled out the console and removed climate module. Took that apart, identified bad bulbs. Looking for replacements now (separate thread). So I have the whole console out and various things unplugged in the interior.
Not figuring out what to do about bulbs, decided to re-install ABS module. That all went fine. Have not bled brakes yet, but thought - hey, why not fire it up and see if ABS/Traction light are off. So far anyway - no warning for ABS or Traction - cool.
But now, the check engine light is on. Never been on before... Don't have a code reader and since I havent bled brakes yet can't drive it. Like I said, I know I should probably should just put it all back together but it may take a bit to source the bulbs for the dash so question is - would any of the stuff that is unplugged (sport switch, cruise control, climate module, cigarette lighter) cause the check engine light to go on?
Probably just being impatient, but its the OCD/ADD/ADHD side of me kicking in.
Thanks!
Mark
1999 XK8 Convertible, 103k miles.
Started yesterday morning - ABS/ Traction lights on, pulled ABS module, sliced it in half, resoldered power connectors, RTV back together.
Then, figured while car is down waiting for RTV to dry, I would look at a backlight issue on climate control module, pulled out the console and removed climate module. Took that apart, identified bad bulbs. Looking for replacements now (separate thread). So I have the whole console out and various things unplugged in the interior.
Not figuring out what to do about bulbs, decided to re-install ABS module. That all went fine. Have not bled brakes yet, but thought - hey, why not fire it up and see if ABS/Traction light are off. So far anyway - no warning for ABS or Traction - cool.
But now, the check engine light is on. Never been on before... Don't have a code reader and since I havent bled brakes yet can't drive it. Like I said, I know I should probably should just put it all back together but it may take a bit to source the bulbs for the dash so question is - would any of the stuff that is unplugged (sport switch, cruise control, climate module, cigarette lighter) cause the check engine light to go on?
Probably just being impatient, but its the OCD/ADD/ADHD side of me kicking in.
Thanks!
Mark
#2
Too early to tell if re-installation of everything will clear the check engine light. Be patient and get it back together before being overly concerned. If its nothing major, several normal drive cycles will clear the light itself. If its still there after that (or in the meantime) go to a parts store or two and ask them to read your code. Post it up here, and we'll let you know if its a major concern or keep driving. Best advice I can give ya.
BTW, those little bulbs are just a few dollars each at the dealer. They had to order me some, none in stock.
BTW, those little bulbs are just a few dollars each at the dealer. They had to order me some, none in stock.
#3
#4
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
Yes it will turn on cel for the sport mode switch, but a bigger question isbrake lines are bendable, thats how they bend them to go everywhere so why did you take the valve block out and seperate the lines? For anyone else reading, unbolt the whole bracket and assembly, bend the lines out of the way and take an internal torx socket and remove the 4 bolts and take off the valve block. Then you wont have to bleed the lines
#5
Considered that, have seen both methods described. Final thoughts for me were that it was a 10 year old car, no idea if anyone had bent the lines out of the way before and figured it would be just my luck to snap a line.
Added to that I recently purchased the car, have little or no service history (other than cam chains and all tensioners 6 months ago - woohoo!) and figured flushing the brake fluid would be a good thing to do so I would know for sure when it was done last. Old fluid is definitely a couple of shades darker than new, but not as bad as I have seen.
Added to that I recently purchased the car, have little or no service history (other than cam chains and all tensioners 6 months ago - woohoo!) and figured flushing the brake fluid would be a good thing to do so I would know for sure when it was done last. Old fluid is definitely a couple of shades darker than new, but not as bad as I have seen.
#6
#7
Hey test point - thanks for the welcome, much appreciated.
Well, everything is back together. And....... after about a 10 mile test drive, so far so good. No CEL and most important - no ABS/Traction light either, which was on at least 99% of the time and if it was off on start up would almost always go on after the 1st mile or so.
Crossing my fingers but it looks like the saw it in half and solder it up was a successful operation!!!! Saved myself between $600 (what my independent mechanic wanted to charge for installing a rebuilt unit) and whatever amount the real deal would be ($1500 for part plus install?) and now have renewed brake fluid to boot.
Total cost:
Harbor Freight:
50 hacksaw blades $4.99 (on sale - the 10 pack was $5.99)
New solder pencil $9.99
Thin gauge solder $5.99
Set of external star sockets $7.99
Fluid pump $7.99 (ok, was more than a turkey baster, but hey I was there and they had it)
Kragen
Big bottle DOT 4 Brake Fluid $12.99
RTV $4.99
$48 bucks and change including taxes
Woohoo!! Thank you to the forum for some great info and the satisfaction of a great DIY project!!!
Well, everything is back together. And....... after about a 10 mile test drive, so far so good. No CEL and most important - no ABS/Traction light either, which was on at least 99% of the time and if it was off on start up would almost always go on after the 1st mile or so.
Crossing my fingers but it looks like the saw it in half and solder it up was a successful operation!!!! Saved myself between $600 (what my independent mechanic wanted to charge for installing a rebuilt unit) and whatever amount the real deal would be ($1500 for part plus install?) and now have renewed brake fluid to boot.
Total cost:
Harbor Freight:
50 hacksaw blades $4.99 (on sale - the 10 pack was $5.99)
New solder pencil $9.99
Thin gauge solder $5.99
Set of external star sockets $7.99
Fluid pump $7.99 (ok, was more than a turkey baster, but hey I was there and they had it)
Kragen
Big bottle DOT 4 Brake Fluid $12.99
RTV $4.99
$48 bucks and change including taxes
Woohoo!! Thank you to the forum for some great info and the satisfaction of a great DIY project!!!
Trending Topics
#8
mbalce, you're now the official ABS module rebuilder of jaguarforums.com. Assuming this holds up (hey, i'm always covering my butt) You may receive offers to do the same thing for others, so be ready to price your services If you choose not to, at least you can support the others having similar issues.
Good job BTW!
Good job BTW!
#9
Thanks Matt! So far 3 trips and 75 miles since re-build and no sign of the ABS light and thats at least 70 miles farther than it has gone since I got the car.... Kinda interesting because I could not see anything wrong with the existing joints but its pretty small stuff and my eyes are definitely not what they used to be.
But I just resoldered anyway according to the directions I found at http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1216605k87 which seemed the best and most clear I found.
My particular experienced on a 1999 XK8 differed slightly than described. For one thing, when I opened up the module, the entire circuit board was covered in a thick, clear, rubbery type coating - I imagine for protection from vibration or corrosion. I almost did not go on at that point until I scratched at the coating with my fingernail and found it to be soft and I was able to scrape it off the board and circuits and it came off very cleanly. I only removed it from an area the size of a dime which uncovered the connections I soldered (I know I know - I shoulda took pics!! too late now).
At that point I was mainly worried that if allo this did not work, I would not be able to send it into the pro re-builders you see advertised on Ebay and such. But since I already cut it in half, I figured I was pretty committed.
Anyway - not sure if I would take on someone else's module.... but would certainly be willing to support anyones efforts, especially if you are here in southern cali. All in all, it was a pretty easy project and so far seems to be working.
But I just resoldered anyway according to the directions I found at http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1216605k87 which seemed the best and most clear I found.
My particular experienced on a 1999 XK8 differed slightly than described. For one thing, when I opened up the module, the entire circuit board was covered in a thick, clear, rubbery type coating - I imagine for protection from vibration or corrosion. I almost did not go on at that point until I scratched at the coating with my fingernail and found it to be soft and I was able to scrape it off the board and circuits and it came off very cleanly. I only removed it from an area the size of a dime which uncovered the connections I soldered (I know I know - I shoulda took pics!! too late now).
At that point I was mainly worried that if allo this did not work, I would not be able to send it into the pro re-builders you see advertised on Ebay and such. But since I already cut it in half, I figured I was pretty committed.
Anyway - not sure if I would take on someone else's module.... but would certainly be willing to support anyones efforts, especially if you are here in southern cali. All in all, it was a pretty easy project and so far seems to be working.
#10
#11
#12
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BrentGardner
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
28
04-26-2024 03:08 AM
NinoGrimace
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
1
08-26-2015 05:15 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)