gas smell
#41
#42
It gets rapid pulses, up to 100 per second if I recall. You really need an oscilloscope to see it.
If it was an electrical fault, you should have gotten a purge valve failure code, which you did not.
Your failure code indicated a leak somewhere in the evap. system plumbing. The challenge is to find it.
If it was an electrical fault, you should have gotten a purge valve failure code, which you did not.
Your failure code indicated a leak somewhere in the evap. system plumbing. The challenge is to find it.
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Blakeb1 (06-15-2011)
#43
I recently had my 2001 XK8 into the local Jaguar dealer (Collier in Orlando) for a smoke test. I had been getting the PO455 code. I had replaced the Cannister close valve and some of the tubing connecting the carbon cannisters. The smoke test showed a leaky carbon cannister which they replaced about 4 months ago.
I can now smell gas at the top of the rear passenger side wheel???? right above where they replaced the carbon cannister. I checked the pipe going into the cannister but no leak. I have read all the threads on PO455 problems.
Any ideas, suggestions, would be very welcome
P.S. I am not showing any ODB codes on the dashboard.
I can now smell gas at the top of the rear passenger side wheel???? right above where they replaced the carbon cannister. I checked the pipe going into the cannister but no leak. I have read all the threads on PO455 problems.
Any ideas, suggestions, would be very welcome
P.S. I am not showing any ODB codes on the dashboard.
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Blakeb1 (06-15-2011)
#44
2002 xk8 gas smell (problem found) sort of
I gave up and took it to the Jag dealer. I have a warranty I bought with the car, but it doesn't cover the evap system.
So They diagnosed the problem as the canister close valve. Which I had removed and tested with the battery and saw it open and close. I guess they must have a better method of testing, or they are just starting with the obvious. Either way I am going to bring it home and replace it myself instead of paying them $435. I will call the $110 to diagnose as money well spent if it is actually the problem.
I will buy one if someone has one, or will order one if anyone knows a good place.
They also said my thermostat housing was cracked, which I knew. I can get an aluminum replacement off EBay, but not looking forward to the work, especially getting to the bolts near the bottom.
So They diagnosed the problem as the canister close valve. Which I had removed and tested with the battery and saw it open and close. I guess they must have a better method of testing, or they are just starting with the obvious. Either way I am going to bring it home and replace it myself instead of paying them $435. I will call the $110 to diagnose as money well spent if it is actually the problem.
I will buy one if someone has one, or will order one if anyone knows a good place.
They also said my thermostat housing was cracked, which I knew. I can get an aluminum replacement off EBay, but not looking forward to the work, especially getting to the bolts near the bottom.
#45
I took the canister control valve off, took it apart and cleaned it. Had some particles in it. Put it back on and drove it, still smelled.
Then Put some duct tape over the vent-out side of the valve rather than hooking it to the hose that goes to the frame vent. Drove it again and that seemed to help tremendously, maybe 100%, not sure yet.
I will order the new valve, but wondering if the valve is ok, and the electrical going to it is bad.
Does anyone know how to test the electrical or if there is a fuse.
Then Put some duct tape over the vent-out side of the valve rather than hooking it to the hose that goes to the frame vent. Drove it again and that seemed to help tremendously, maybe 100%, not sure yet.
I will order the new valve, but wondering if the valve is ok, and the electrical going to it is bad.
Does anyone know how to test the electrical or if there is a fuse.
Last edited by Blakeb1; 06-15-2011 at 08:19 PM. Reason: New info
#46
#47
$63.21 at Gaudin: Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com
#48
Sorry the number should be LJG 1515BB for the canister purge valve, LJC 1525AB is the canister close valve. This link should help Jaguar - Canister
See attached. I do not have 303-61
See attached. I do not have 303-61
Last edited by Gus; 06-15-2011 at 08:38 PM.
#49
anybody have any pics of the carbon canisters under the car? I don't know where to look
This is one system that I have no confidence in finding easily, I mean there's what...two canisters, one CCV and a purge valve...all in different locations on the car? (at least mine, from what I read)
This is one system that I have no confidence in finding easily, I mean there's what...two canisters, one CCV and a purge valve...all in different locations on the car? (at least mine, from what I read)
#50
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H20boy (06-16-2011)
#51
anybody have any pics of the carbon canisters under the car? I don't know where to look
This is one system that I have no confidence in finding easily, I mean there's what...two canisters, one CCV and a purge valve...all in different locations on the car? (at least mine, from what I read)
This is one system that I have no confidence in finding easily, I mean there's what...two canisters, one CCV and a purge valve...all in different locations on the car? (at least mine, from what I read)
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H20boy (06-16-2011)
#53
#54
#55
One more on the fuel system operation...not evap. system...but very good article on 2003 and later XK fuel system.
Under Pressure: Maintaining Ford’s Electronic Returnless Fuel System
Under Pressure: Maintaining Ford’s Electronic Returnless Fuel System
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 06-16-2011 at 03:25 PM.
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Marsden (07-14-2012)
#58
#59
I know it may take a little time to compose, but if you want to type something up on your dissassembly of the evap system with those pics attached, more members than just me and gus would benefit from your hard work. If you need the pics hosted somewhere, you can email me a zip file (check my profile for the email link) and I'll host them on the forum's mediafire acct and you can link them yourself to your thread.
#60