Build-Up on Finish
#1
Build-Up on Finish
Hi, there!
I just noticed something that really bothers me. I typically take my cars to the self service car wash to use the "spot-free" rinse. Afterward, I would drive them home and let them sit while I drive another car since I alternate cars. Today, I noticed a white line from run-off from the body side molding. I was hoping that this would just wipe off; however, I found out that there is a residue build-up. In addition, there are spots and similar stream lines. Again, these do not just wipe off.
Anyone know of an easy to get rid of these?
HELP!!!
I just noticed something that really bothers me. I typically take my cars to the self service car wash to use the "spot-free" rinse. Afterward, I would drive them home and let them sit while I drive another car since I alternate cars. Today, I noticed a white line from run-off from the body side molding. I was hoping that this would just wipe off; however, I found out that there is a residue build-up. In addition, there are spots and similar stream lines. Again, these do not just wipe off.
Anyone know of an easy to get rid of these?
HELP!!!
#3
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Orange County, California. USA
Posts: 573
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Hi, there!
I just noticed something that really bothers me. I typically take my cars to the self service car wash to use the "spot-free" rinse. Afterward, I would drive them home and let them sit while I drive another car since I alternate cars. Today, I noticed a white line from run-off from the body side molding. I was hoping that this would just wipe off; however, I found out that there is a residue build-up. In addition, there are spots and similar stream lines. Again, these do not just wipe off.
Anyone know of an easy to get rid of these?
HELP!!!
I just noticed something that really bothers me. I typically take my cars to the self service car wash to use the "spot-free" rinse. Afterward, I would drive them home and let them sit while I drive another car since I alternate cars. Today, I noticed a white line from run-off from the body side molding. I was hoping that this would just wipe off; however, I found out that there is a residue build-up. In addition, there are spots and similar stream lines. Again, these do not just wipe off.
Anyone know of an easy to get rid of these?
HELP!!!
Claying may help if these stains are above the surface, but if they have etched into the surface claying will do absolutely nothing. If this staining has bit into the surface, you will need to level these defects out.
These level of defects can be removed as follows depending on their severity.....listed in order of most to least aggressive below.
1) Color sand, rotary buff and polish
2) Use of a rotary polisher, using a 4" pad system, then d/a polish, wax and seal
3) Meguiar's 3" MF D/A correction system will allow you to correct this in 2 steps
Hope this will answer your question.....good luck!
#5
What you have noticed is something very typical associated with the use of extremely hard water and or car washes and self serves that recycle their water. This water accumilates in these nooks and cranny's and then when you least expect it, it drips. What you see is the extensive chemical, lime, and calcuim staining that has left its footprint.....
Claying may help if these stains are above the surface, but if they have etched into the surface claying will do absolutely nothing. If this staining has bit into the surface, you will need to level these defects out.
These level of defects can be removed as follows depending on their severity.....listed in order of most to least aggressive below.
1) Color sand, rotary buff and polish
2) Use of a rotary polisher, using a 4" pad system, then d/a polish, wax and seal
3) Meguiar's 3" MF D/A correction system will allow you to correct this in 2 steps
Hope this will answer your question.....good luck!
Claying may help if these stains are above the surface, but if they have etched into the surface claying will do absolutely nothing. If this staining has bit into the surface, you will need to level these defects out.
These level of defects can be removed as follows depending on their severity.....listed in order of most to least aggressive below.
1) Color sand, rotary buff and polish
2) Use of a rotary polisher, using a 4" pad system, then d/a polish, wax and seal
3) Meguiar's 3" MF D/A correction system will allow you to correct this in 2 steps
Hope this will answer your question.....good luck!
Thanks!
Unfortunately, that's what I was hoping it wouldn't be. Bummer!
I am not good in the paint/body department. I am more of the mechanical type.
You going to be in Maryland anytime soon? Kidding.
#6
Exrub,
IF the least aggressive approach works, you really don't need advanced bodywork skills:
DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP & Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Starter Kit 5" Free Bonus | Detailed Image
Meguiar's DA Microfiber Cutting Disc Buffing Pad - 2 pack - 3" | Detailed Image
Meguiar's Backing Plate 3" with Adapter Kit | Detailed Image
If not, you've got the goods to keep the rest of the car looking fantastic!
I messed around a bit with some 3m compound and a rotary buffer on my oxidized Grand Marquis....I wouldn't let myself within 100' of my Jag with that combo in hand! I was through to bare metal in a heartbeat as soon as I hit a non-flat surface. I started out with the 5" kit and just recently added the 3" pads, primarily for headlights and guitar bodies! (already had a 3" backing plate, so I got lucky)
If you can't find someone with the skills of David or TOGWT nearby, I'd advise giving the Meguiar's option a try, I doubt any body-shop will touch it for less than that, and you'll always have the tools....16 oz of D300/301 will give you 3 or 4 shots at the whole car, at least.
IF the least aggressive approach works, you really don't need advanced bodywork skills:
DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP & Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Starter Kit 5" Free Bonus | Detailed Image
Meguiar's DA Microfiber Cutting Disc Buffing Pad - 2 pack - 3" | Detailed Image
Meguiar's Backing Plate 3" with Adapter Kit | Detailed Image
If not, you've got the goods to keep the rest of the car looking fantastic!
I messed around a bit with some 3m compound and a rotary buffer on my oxidized Grand Marquis....I wouldn't let myself within 100' of my Jag with that combo in hand! I was through to bare metal in a heartbeat as soon as I hit a non-flat surface. I started out with the 5" kit and just recently added the 3" pads, primarily for headlights and guitar bodies! (already had a 3" backing plate, so I got lucky)
If you can't find someone with the skills of David or TOGWT nearby, I'd advise giving the Meguiar's option a try, I doubt any body-shop will touch it for less than that, and you'll always have the tools....16 oz of D300/301 will give you 3 or 4 shots at the whole car, at least.
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exrub (09-08-2011)
#7
Well, I happened to stop by my local Ford dealership to discuss some other matter. While there, I showed the mess to my service advisor who took the car to the detailers to see if they have something that would work. About five minutes later, he came back up with the car and showed me what the detailer was able to do. Apparently, he used some compound to take off most of the build-up. I'm thinking of taking it back to the detailer to do a complete detail and see if that gets rid of it.
Thanks for your inputs...I'll have to resort to it if it doesn't work out well.
Thanks for your inputs...I'll have to resort to it if it doesn't work out well.
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