Ok, I have 13 year old silver paint that has probably been exposed to too much sun. Is there any detailing trick to fixing this issue, or is this a case of needing a repaint? I don't have any good up close pictures to post, but I'm sure all the experts (Dave) know exactly what I'm talking about.

Ideas?

 

XJR, I would recommend going to an automotive paint store (not your local auto parts store, but one that sells nothing but automotive paint). Get inside the store and find a product called Perfect-It III. It is made by 3M. It is a liquid rubbing compound (1500 grit). With some terry cloth (or other soft cloth), you can apply it like a wax and it should remove all of your cloudiness. Don't be afraid to rub it in really good. You can even use an orbital buffer with this stuff, though, I will caution you that you want to keep the bugger away from sharp edges as with the buffer, if it is left in 1 place too long it can actually "eat" through the paint. Once you have gone over the car with this stuff, wax the car like you normally would. I think you will be surprised.

One a side note, using the Perfect-It III product, it is also good on chrome and glass. IT will remove a lot of the oxidation that can form on chrome over the years. It will turn the chrome pretty much back to new unless it is rusting. As for the glass, use some 0000 steel wool with this stuff and you can polish up your glass and remove a lot of the build up and even remove some of the scratches. I know what you are thinking, "I am not putting steel wool on my glass". I was thinking the same thing. TRUST ME, it works.

Give the Perfect-It III stuff a try and go from there. If that doesn't fix the cloudiness, then a repaint will more than likely be needed unless someone else knows a trick I don't.

P.S. If you need some help with your Excursion, let me know. I do a lot with Ford trucks too. Got some info for you if you are interested.

 

Thanks Chris. I'll see if I can find it at a auto paint supply store. So this must be in the clear coat rather than actually in the silver?

As to the Excursion, we've had it for about one year and the only thing anoying about it is some drive line slap coming to a stop and then again starting back up from a stop. It seems to go away for a couple hundred miles after a lube so there is something the dealer is doing for a temporary fix. The other that I haven't bothered with is tightening the steering gear, it wanders a bit much and is unresponsive. I know this is pretty easy, I just haven't bothered to climb into the engine compartment to deal with the beast!

 

Repainting would be the absolute last remedy if colorsanding and or rotary polishing fail to do the repair. By hand you will never be able to duplicate the results that a true paint correction can provide using professional grade products and equipment.

So long as the paint is not failing, checking or peeling you should be able to correct this to perfection. My advise would be to first have your panels measured with a paint gauge meter to see how much material you have to deal with. Then make a plan of action, taking the least aggressive approach possible to correct your paint and work up in aggressiveness if needed. Remember you only get one original paint job and being over aggressive can damage it further.

 

Thanks Dave, you don't happen to know of a reputible detailer in the Seattle (north) area, do you? I feel that this car has had an over aggressive detailer as you said, as the paint on the grille is worn through from it not being masked off while buffing the hood.

 

The steel wool is something that I was aware of, that was a trick we used at a paint and body shop I worked at when I was in high school. At the time, I think I remember the guys dipping it in laquer thinner or some other wax remover to aide in removing foreign matter from the glass.

 

So... did you try the Perfect-It III? I'm really curious because I've got the same issue. I've tried Meguiars Ultimate Compound, and Swril X to no avail. I'd give in and have the roof painted, but right now, I have no spare cash.

 

I haven't tried it yet as I am looking for a good pro in the area to take a look at it first. Depending on what they have to say, I may give it a go, or just let the pro handle it, then take on the easier maintenance myself.

 

Midlife,

Here is one that I corrected yesterday for Mr Christian Beyer (Drove the RR Ghost for our Coffee & Cars event) the head salesman @ Rolls Royce of Orange County. It was a 1999 XJ6 w/ 40,000 original miles that had pretty much the same conditions that you are describing. Its upper surfaces, especially the roof were showing moderate signs of paint failure due to a cloudy oxidation film on the tops. I picked it up yesterday at the dealership and gave her my "Magic"

Sorry for not providing before shots, but yesterday was an ugly overcast day, lighting was terrible and I had no time......aaarrggg!























If you have the proper products and tools and you can get past the learning curve, this can be accomplished. Otherwise your local (PRO) detailer should be able to do this for you without a doubt. Some areas had to be lightly color sanded followed by a thorough pass with my rotary polisher, one polish pass with the D/A, then my LSP with the D/A.

If you have any other questions, please let me know....

Have a great day!

 

Thanks Dave.

I am looking at Metropolitan Detailing in Lynnwood, WA. They look to be one of the best shops in the area from what my research is showing. I don't have the proper rotary tools and as you indicated, this job really needs the proper tools to get the job done. Plus, I know what can happen to paint if the tools aren't properly applied from my body shop experience 30+ years ago, so I am leaning towards the pro!

I too, am sorry you couldn't get the before pics, but I know the June Gloom that you might be plauged with! Those conditions are what masked the extent of my situation when I bought it!

Beautiful job and car, BTW!

 

That's a genuine beauty
I would not leave it unsaid the wheels are outstanding and eye magnet

 

I've got to correct you on one little typo you had you said the Xj6 was 1999. I believe you meant 1989.

Gosh though. I am desperate for some of that good work on my car's roof, but for right now, it will just be two coats of wax to preserve it.

 

Your very welcome, your decision is a wise one! Lately we here in OC, have been socked in w/the June gloom so photo's lately do not show the true details.
Thanks for the good words...!!

She was a complete beauty for her year, everything was "TRUE" Silver Frost exterior and Isis Blue interior.

She was born a 99, according to the owner and the mfg plaque. My suggestion is to remove the oxidation ASAP, it is a progressive thing that only gets worse. Wax helps, but its not the same.

Thanks for the compliments!...


Here is a brief testimonial that the owner posted......

Just had my classic 1991 Jaguar XJ6 detailed to perfection by David Sylican with Innovative Detailing. Complete color correction and restoration performed. Looks awesome! The incredible luster and shine to my baby is back! Please visit his webiste: Innovativedetailing.com to learn more about his high end professional services. You can also visit his FB page as well where you can see photos of my baby back to her original beauty! HIGHLY RECCOMENDED FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR THE ABSOLUTE BEST

Christian Beyer
Sales Consultant
Rolls Royce Motor Cars of Newport Beach.

 

Thanks Dave, your comments about it getting progressively worse is motivating me to get this done ASAP. I have already noticed that it is progressing on the roof and trunk.


The owner claims its a 1991. That does seem more inline given all of the physical signs of the late 80's styling. Beatiful car none the less, and beatiful job once again!

 

I think it may be too late for my car. There is already a spot of the clear coat that has completely clouded over. It may be able to be remedied, but I doubt it. Too much time in the Florida sun.

 

TopHatChef, I would recommend finding a good detailer in your area and then take it to them for an assessment. I paid a lot of money for mine, but it was well worth it! They had the car for a day and a half, I'm sure they didn't work on it the whole time, but they kept it as long as they felt was necessary.

I just got mine back from the detailer, and I was very pleasantly surprised. His assessment was that he would be able to get it back to approximately 90%. The result was closer to 95+ in my estimation. My silver was very oxidized in several of the top panels especially the roof and trunk lid. I could not find any spots under the lights of the shop when I picked it up, but when I go home under low light conditions I found a couple of spots that could probably stand a touch up.

All in all, I was very impressed with the result and would definately recommend Metropolitan Detailing in Lynnwood WA! Unfortunately, they didn't take pictures during the process, so I can't demonstrate the results. They need to learn from Dave's factidious pictoral documentation of projects!

 

I've got some pictures of my paint. One is of the roof with the clear coat failing, and the other is of the trunk. When I took these, I don't think the car was detailed, and let alone even washed so do go easy on me for that.

 

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I am no expert, but my Silver was equally as bad as what you show here and the detailer I took it to did a three stage color correction and it is bascially back to original. I would strongly suggest finding a highly respected detailer in your community and get their opinion!

I think you will be amazed. Be ready to spend good money on it, but I decided that it was a one time charge to get the paint back to it's near factory form, so it was well worth it. I paid $600 US, as I had to purchase their high end service. Plus I would have paid that amount in my purchase price anyway, so I could easily justify it! The only other thing they could have done was color sand, but I decided that was a bit too extreme for my daily driver.

Good luck!

 

Yeah, I would go, but I don't have $600. In fact, I'm really trying to find the money and the ability to justify the expense to buy a DA Polisher (Porter Cable) and some pads for it.