Leather Care
#21
11-02-2010, 07:48 AM
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Experiences vary. As for Leatherique products, I've personally never had a problem after many years of using them.
As far as dye goes, I've only used Surflex and have been quite happy with the results.
With Surflex, at least, the gloss can be easily knocked down by a light wipe with a damp cloth after the product has dried.
Cheers
DD
As far as dye goes, I've only used Surflex and have been quite happy with the results.
With Surflex, at least, the gloss can be easily knocked down by a light wipe with a damp cloth after the product has dried.
Cheers
DD
#22
11-02-2010, 03:55 PM
Veteran Member
#25
11-08-2010, 06:30 PM
Senior Member
#26
11-20-2010, 08:28 PM
Junior Member
#27
01-26-2011, 11:37 AM
Leather Care
The most important consideration in leather care is to identify the finished leather used. Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and / or the applied finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products / methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth) First you need to identify the material and finishes used; Aniline, Pigmented, Protected or Coated, Alcantara®, Synthetic or Vinyl (BMW and MB use all of these leather finishes for their model range and in some instances a combination.
Different types of leather require specific cleaning and care and therefore require a slightly different process. Using an incorrect product could damage the finish; check your 'leather type' before attempting to clean or apply any products to its surface.
CliffNotes® Version -automotive finished leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating; consisting of the actual hide, colour pigmentation and the surface finish. An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three water-based pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear water-based top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.
Three Step Care
1. Maintenance / Care-remove surface dirt and dust – use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a clean, damp cloth to ensure hydration.
2. Cleaning -Leather Masters™ Foam Cleaner is a solvent free pump action product, which is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains. Always pre-test the product on an inconspicuous area. This cleaner is an aerosol version of Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner.Allow product to remain in place (amount of product will be dependent upon level of soiling) and then gently agitate, finally remove with a damp micro fibre towel
. 3. Protection- to ensure the leather remains soft and supple apply Leather Masters Soft Touch and allow to dry. And then apply Leather Masters Protection Cream with a dry micro fibre towel and allow to dry
This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen.
The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles
Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
The most important consideration in leather care is to identify the finished leather used. Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and / or the applied finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products / methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth) First you need to identify the material and finishes used; Aniline, Pigmented, Protected or Coated, Alcantara®, Synthetic or Vinyl (BMW and MB use all of these leather finishes for their model range and in some instances a combination.
Different types of leather require specific cleaning and care and therefore require a slightly different process. Using an incorrect product could damage the finish; check your 'leather type' before attempting to clean or apply any products to its surface.
CliffNotes® Version -automotive finished leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating; consisting of the actual hide, colour pigmentation and the surface finish. An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three water-based pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear water-based top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.
Three Step Care
1. Maintenance / Care-remove surface dirt and dust – use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a clean, damp cloth to ensure hydration.
2. Cleaning -Leather Masters™ Foam Cleaner is a solvent free pump action product, which is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains. Always pre-test the product on an inconspicuous area. This cleaner is an aerosol version of Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner.Allow product to remain in place (amount of product will be dependent upon level of soiling) and then gently agitate, finally remove with a damp micro fibre towel
. 3. Protection- to ensure the leather remains soft and supple apply Leather Masters Soft Touch and allow to dry. And then apply Leather Masters Protection Cream with a dry micro fibre towel and allow to dry
This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen.
The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles
Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Last edited by Togwt; 06-28-2011 at 05:43 AM.
#28
02-10-2011, 10:15 PM
Senior Member
I bought a Jag today, and we let the dealership know we were coming in advance. Good decision! When we showed up, the car was not in sight. We asked for it and all of the sudden here it came from the garage, freshly waxed and let me tell you whatever they put on the seats made them feel softer than any leather i have ever felt. And it smelled amazing! I am calling tomorrow to see what it was they put on the seats. Note this was at a Jag dealership.
#29
06-26-2011, 12:28 PM
I bought a Jag today, and we let the dealership know we were coming in advance. Good decision! When we showed up, the car was not in sight. We asked for it and all of the sudden here it came from the garage, freshly waxed and let me tell you whatever they put on the seats made them feel softer than any leather i have ever felt. And it smelled amazing! I am calling tomorrow to see what it was they put on the seats. Note this was at a Jag dealership.
#30
06-26-2011, 02:20 PM
Senior Member
Leather Honey
Leather Honey is what I use to condition the leather in my XK (especially on the leather dash). Best stuff on the market, hands down. Three applications of Leather Honey turned my dry, faded, cracking dash into a soft, shiny, and supple, thing of beauty. We are talking brand new condition here folks.....
#31
06-28-2011, 05:31 AM
Sorry, I have to be the dissenter here. Very bad experiences with Leatherique. I've used most of their products including the dye, and had bad experiences with all.
In my case, I've used their leather "oil" products for years and it is not the initial useage that was negative, but after much (over about 3 1/2 years) use. The "leather" in most late model Jaguars is, in fact, not leather, it is a high grade vinyl. The only leather is literally on the seat surfaces (seat and back) Steering wheel, a couple of other small places, everything else is vinyl.
The other important fact is that Jaguar uses a dye on the interior surfaces that is much like a paint. It lays on the surface and "seals" the material. When you use a penetrating type oil like leatherique, it is really destroying this paint like seal which is the color. Oil also does not do well on vinyl material which is really a plastic. Oil accelerates the deterioration of vinyl. So, after extended use (over a couple of years) you might not be very happy with the condition of the leather and vinyl in the car because the paint is being removed by the oil.
Additionally, after much use, Leatherique begins to leave a foul odor like a rancid oil smell. It took me a very long time to get rid of this odor in my X300 VDP and I almost ruined the interior in my XK8. I won't get into the dye products, yet another story, but on my interiors now I only use a UV product that is good for vinyl and works on leather too.
Finally, take a quick look at any late model owner's handbook and see Jaguar's recommendations and warnings for interior care. They're giving these warnings based on their knowledge of the dye materials along with the interior materials. Sorry again the be a spoiler here. You have to use what you're going to use, but it is probably worth thinking past just the initial use.
In my case, I've used their leather "oil" products for years and it is not the initial useage that was negative, but after much (over about 3 1/2 years) use. The "leather" in most late model Jaguars is, in fact, not leather, it is a high grade vinyl. The only leather is literally on the seat surfaces (seat and back) Steering wheel, a couple of other small places, everything else is vinyl.
The other important fact is that Jaguar uses a dye on the interior surfaces that is much like a paint. It lays on the surface and "seals" the material. When you use a penetrating type oil like leatherique, it is really destroying this paint like seal which is the color. Oil also does not do well on vinyl material which is really a plastic. Oil accelerates the deterioration of vinyl. So, after extended use (over a couple of years) you might not be very happy with the condition of the leather and vinyl in the car because the paint is being removed by the oil.
Additionally, after much use, Leatherique begins to leave a foul odor like a rancid oil smell. It took me a very long time to get rid of this odor in my X300 VDP and I almost ruined the interior in my XK8. I won't get into the dye products, yet another story, but on my interiors now I only use a UV product that is good for vinyl and works on leather too.
Finally, take a quick look at any late model owner's handbook and see Jaguar's recommendations and warnings for interior care. They're giving these warnings based on their knowledge of the dye materials along with the interior materials. Sorry again the be a spoiler here. You have to use what you're going to use, but it is probably worth thinking past just the initial use.
An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.
The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles, and besides urathane doesn't need conditioning
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Last edited by Togwt; 06-28-2011 at 05:41 AM.
#32
06-28-2011, 05:38 AM
I've used Lexol for years on my Ford King Ranch. Fell in love with the natural leather. Tried several others, nothing comes close to the Lexol results for this type of leather. Never had a problem with steering wheel leather either. I'm going to try the Zymol line for the Jag leather though, as it is colored/tanned.......? Is the Leatherique line available at stores, or just on line? Appreciate earlier threads.
Afterthought, I did purchase some Connolly Hide Care from Welsh. Some (small amount) of the glycerin/water had leaked out during shipment. Tried it anyway. Wouldn't give you a plug nickle for it. Tossed it......
Ralph
Afterthought, I did purchase some Connolly Hide Care from Welsh. Some (small amount) of the glycerin/water had leaked out during shipment. Tried it anyway. Wouldn't give you a plug nickle for it. Tossed it......
Ralph
Generally speaking aniline style dyes come in very earthy natural colours, which may incorporate a thin clear urethane coating that provides a uniform colour and affords abrasion protection, but not so much as to conceal the natural characteristics or feel of the hide. Other colours (i.e. gray, black, etc) have a pigmentation coating added.
Modern leather tanning methods; chrome tanning, seals the hides ‘locking in’ the necessary fats and oils; it is then pigmented, by spraying a micro thin aqueous (water- based) acrylic and polyurethane resin to the hide to provide colour consistency and abrasion resistance. There is no such thing as a cow with blue, red or burgundy hides.
#33
06-28-2011, 06:31 AM
Senior Member
#34
06-28-2011, 06:42 AM
Senior Member
A Question...
I am quite impressed with the detailed information I am reading on automobile leather surfaces, so I hope someone can answer this simple question...
My other car is a 2006 Land Rover LR3. I think I may have gotten a bit to "aggressive" in cleaning the leather driver's seat the other day and it seems I actually rubbed off some of the light tan color.
How can I fix this?
Thanks...
My other car is a 2006 Land Rover LR3. I think I may have gotten a bit to "aggressive" in cleaning the leather driver's seat the other day and it seems I actually rubbed off some of the light tan color.
How can I fix this?
Thanks...
#35
06-29-2011, 06:57 AM
#36
07-01-2011, 02:36 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Orange County, California. USA
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I am quite impressed with the detailed information I am reading on automobile leather surfaces, so I hope someone can answer this simple question...
My other car is a 2006 Land Rover LR3. I think I may have gotten a bit to "aggressive" in cleaning the leather driver's seat the other day and it seems I actually rubbed off some of the light tan color.
How can I fix this?
Thanks...
My other car is a 2006 Land Rover LR3. I think I may have gotten a bit to "aggressive" in cleaning the leather driver's seat the other day and it seems I actually rubbed off some of the light tan color.
How can I fix this?
Thanks...
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Stillwaters (07-05-2011)
#37
09-25-2011, 08:45 AM
Veteran Member
Connolly Hide Treatment was recommended by the Jaguar dealer here so I bought some. Before using I'd like to hear if anyone has had problems with it. Also, the dealer said the best thing for cleaning the steering wheel leather is unscented baby wipes. I tried that and it worked great! I figure if it's gentle enough for a baby, it would be gentle enough for leather.
#38
09-26-2011, 10:14 PM
Veteran Member
The ONLY stuff to use on Jaguar interiors is Gliptone Liquid Leather, end of story.....
Leather Care | Leather Cleaner
Leather Care | Leather Cleaner
Given what I read in another thread, I'd hate to spend more ordering direct from Britain and possibly cause Amazon to lay off workers in their PA warehouse who have fought the good fight all summer, only to get pink-slipped now that the weather begins to temper due to sagging sales!
Have used the kits in both S-types and the VDP thus far, with only the pickup to go. May get another couple for spare/future use or maybe try it on the Excursion, though that is so far gone I went to custom-fitted seat covers a couple of years ago. I am very happy with the results. Soft, supple (but then, it already was) and the glipstick worked very effectively on some stains of unknown origin on the S-types. Smell is fantastic.
On Gliptone's site, "Liquid Leather" (GT13) is recommended for cars without tops and other exposed leathers. The "Conditioner" is their recommendation for enclosed motorcars.
I'd say the 8 oz bottles will do the S-types 3 or 4 times, slightly less on the VDP, it seems to have more leather.
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