Liquid Clay Bar
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06-15-2007, 02:37 PM
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06-16-2007, 04:41 PM
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RE: Liquid Clay Bar
LOL, ok guys I went first (seems only fair)
I have a black 2005 S type that’s covered in swirl marks and those really fine scratches only black cars seem to show to such an extent.
I followed the directions on the liquid clay bar bottle and applied it to a test area first (the front lower bumper)
It leaves a dull residue which you have to wipe off, no problem with that though the " clear as Ice " claim seems to fall down there.
I honestly noticed ZERO change in my cars appearance, I had inspected the swirl marks prior to application and they looked identical afterwards.
I repeated the process two more times in the same spot and finally noticed a really minor change in the swirl marks but they were still there and easy to see.
Overall I am really disappointed with this product and plan on taking it back to the store where I bought it.
I have a black 2005 S type that’s covered in swirl marks and those really fine scratches only black cars seem to show to such an extent.
I followed the directions on the liquid clay bar bottle and applied it to a test area first (the front lower bumper)
It leaves a dull residue which you have to wipe off, no problem with that though the " clear as Ice " claim seems to fall down there.
I honestly noticed ZERO change in my cars appearance, I had inspected the swirl marks prior to application and they looked identical afterwards.
I repeated the process two more times in the same spot and finally noticed a really minor change in the swirl marks but they were still there and easy to see.
Overall I am really disappointed with this product and plan on taking it back to the store where I bought it.
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06-16-2007, 05:15 PM
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06-16-2007, 10:19 PM
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#8
06-18-2007, 09:37 AM
RE: Liquid Clay Bar
Ok, here's the thing, you need to use the right product for the problem. If you lightly run your finger tips over clean paint, it should feel smooth, if it's rough, you'll need to remove the surface contaminates with a product designed for this. In the olden days this was clay bar, however there are several good comercial products that use a liquid or gel. ( ex: Car Brite Fallout Remover, and perhaps the turtle wax, although it's not a commercial product) these are safe and work well. You should note...These products as with clay bar no not remove scratches which is a different problem requiring different products. To remove any surface scratches in which I'm including Bird dropings, you need to bring the entire surfacedown to thelevel of the scratch.This means if for example you can see primer in thescratch, then you would need tocut down through the clear coat and paint to address the scratch with polishing. Not practible thus we use touch up to build the surface to a workable level, then wet sand it level before polishing it out. With bird droppings, the acid in the droppings has etched the clear coat and it if diffficult to determine the depth to which you need to cut to restore the finish, his often requires a professional with a paint depth guage as some clears are very thinly applied. No matter what, with light scratches that have not gone through the clear coat, you will need to use at least three polishes of varying cut. You start with the lightest, then increase the cut until all of the scratches are of a uniform depth. You are actually creating deeper scratches but of a uniform depth leveling the surface. Now comes the good part, you reverse the process going back to the second then the third so all of the scratches are uniform and smaller. Then you apply a sealer of fanal caoting of a wax and presto you have a mirror finish! All paint has scratches... if viewed under a microscope you will see paint looks like a dried out mudflat. Polishing takes tiny scratches and places them all in at a uniform depth simulating what to the naked eye, is a perfectly smooth surface. It's a lot of work, but worth the effort, or you can get someone else to do it for you. If you want more info on doing it yourself, check out Car Brite's web site, I used to distribute their products, and while they're not the only choice, there's a lot of good automotive reconditioning resources on their site.
Cheers hope this helps.
Cheers hope this helps.
#9
06-18-2007, 10:43 AM
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RE: Liquid Clay Bar
ORIGINAL: XJ40ish
You should note...These products as with clay bar no not remove scratches which is a different problem requiring different products.
You should note...These products as with clay bar no not remove scratches which is a different problem requiring different products.
Thanks for your post though, it was very informative and I'll check out car brites web site.
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06-18-2007, 08:51 PM
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06-19-2007, 04:38 PM
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#12
06-20-2007, 12:33 PM
RE: Liquid Clay Bar
ORIGINAL: XJ40ish
Ok, here's the thing, you need to use the right product for the problem. If you lightly run your finger tips over clean paint, it should feel smooth, if it's rough, you'll need to remove the surface contaminates with a product designed for this. In the olden days this was clay bar, however there are several good comercial products that use a liquid or gel. ( ex: Car Brite Fallout Remover, and perhaps the turtle wax, although it's not a commercial product) these are safe and work well. You should note...These products as with clay bar no not remove scratches which is a different problem requiring different products. To remove any surface scratches in which I'm including Bird dropings, you need to bring the entire surfacedown to thelevel of the scratch.This means if for example you can see primer in thescratch, then you would need tocut down through the clear coat and paint to address the scratch with polishing. Not practible thus we use touch up to build the surface to a workable level, then wet sand it level before polishing it out. With bird droppings, the acid in the droppings has etched the clear coat and it if diffficult to determine the depth to which you need to cut to restore the finish, his often requires a professional with a paint depth guage as some clears are very thinly applied. No matter what, with light scratches that have not gone through the clear coat, you will need to use at least three polishes of varying cut. You start with the lightest, then increase the cut until all of the scratches are of a uniform depth. You are actually creating deeper scratches but of a uniform depth leveling the surface. Now comes the good part, you reverse the process going back to the second then the third so all of the scratches are uniform and smaller. Then you apply a sealer of fanal caoting of a wax and presto you have a mirror finish! All paint has scratches... if viewed under a microscope you will see paint looks like a dried out mudflat. Polishing takes tiny scratches and places them all in at a uniform depth simulating what to the naked eye, is a perfectly smooth surface. It's a lot of work, but worth the effort, or you can get someone else to do it for you. If you want more info on doing it yourself, check out Car Brite's web site, I used to distribute their products, and while they're not the only choice, there's a lot of good automotive reconditioning resources on their site.
Cheers hope this helps.
Ok, here's the thing, you need to use the right product for the problem. If you lightly run your finger tips over clean paint, it should feel smooth, if it's rough, you'll need to remove the surface contaminates with a product designed for this. In the olden days this was clay bar, however there are several good comercial products that use a liquid or gel. ( ex: Car Brite Fallout Remover, and perhaps the turtle wax, although it's not a commercial product) these are safe and work well. You should note...These products as with clay bar no not remove scratches which is a different problem requiring different products. To remove any surface scratches in which I'm including Bird dropings, you need to bring the entire surfacedown to thelevel of the scratch.This means if for example you can see primer in thescratch, then you would need tocut down through the clear coat and paint to address the scratch with polishing. Not practible thus we use touch up to build the surface to a workable level, then wet sand it level before polishing it out. With bird droppings, the acid in the droppings has etched the clear coat and it if diffficult to determine the depth to which you need to cut to restore the finish, his often requires a professional with a paint depth guage as some clears are very thinly applied. No matter what, with light scratches that have not gone through the clear coat, you will need to use at least three polishes of varying cut. You start with the lightest, then increase the cut until all of the scratches are of a uniform depth. You are actually creating deeper scratches but of a uniform depth leveling the surface. Now comes the good part, you reverse the process going back to the second then the third so all of the scratches are uniform and smaller. Then you apply a sealer of fanal caoting of a wax and presto you have a mirror finish! All paint has scratches... if viewed under a microscope you will see paint looks like a dried out mudflat. Polishing takes tiny scratches and places them all in at a uniform depth simulating what to the naked eye, is a perfectly smooth surface. It's a lot of work, but worth the effort, or you can get someone else to do it for you. If you want more info on doing it yourself, check out Car Brite's web site, I used to distribute their products, and while they're not the only choice, there's a lot of good automotive reconditioning resources on their site.
Cheers hope this helps.
#13
06-20-2007, 04:47 PM
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#15
06-22-2007, 03:25 AM
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#16
06-27-2007, 09:28 AM
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#17
06-27-2007, 10:13 PM
RE: Liquid Clay Bar
I recommend using a Zaino Bros. kit or Mother's kit. I have not had any luck with liquid clay bars, stick with the regular clay bars. Zaino Bros. is more expensive and I think that it can only be bought online, but if you are looking for a best of show shine then they are the best. Mother's is also pretty good and cheaper.
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